After a wonderful Thanksgiving with family and friends, we returned via Atalanta, GA to Dream Chaser at Pirate's Cove about 1 pm. After unloading luggage, we took our last trip in the marina courtesy van to the Down Yonder Restaurant for late lunch and then to the nearby Tom Bevill Visitor Center.
The welcome center was named after Tom Bevill, one of Alabama’s senators that pushed the development of the waterway. Located just above the Bevill Lock and dam, this 3.2 million dollar antebellum designed mansion stands prominently above the tree line. Designed from the 1830-1860 Greek Revival residences, this stunning huge white structure has a grand curved staircase; detailed woodwork; black marble and white Alabama marble; crystal chandeliers; reproduced paintings; and furniture from the period. Christmas decorations were being hung inside as we entered which added to the majesty of the interior. After visiting the exhibits upstairs, we headed outside towards the river. Mary is drawn to this period and these plantation homes, and she fell in love with this building’s awesome beauty. Oh, to have lived during this period of history (minus the wars, slavery, and epidemics)! Adorned with decorations for the holidays, we could imagine hosting wonderful parties and celebrations for family and friends!
As we walked from the mansion, a gentlemen from the second floor balcony waved and called, "Ya all come back, now!".
At the waterfront is the U.S. Snagboat Montgomery, a fully restored 178 ft. steam-powered stern wheel-propelled snagboat, built in 1925. This stern wheeler, operated by the US Army Corps of Engineers, cleared snags and obstructions from the rivers until 1982. She is a National Historic Landmark and operates as a museum ship.
Thursday, December 5
After a great night’s sleep, we rolled out of bed about 6:30 am. and were thrilled to find temps in the high 60’s rather than the 20’s back home. Donning shorts, T-shirts, and tennies, we headed out for a quick two mile walk. Nothing was stirring in Pirate's Cove Marina and RV park (even the watch dog was absent or asleep). The woods however were noisy with birds and a startled deer.
About 8 am, we called the Bevill Lock and were informed that a tow with barges was headed north and was nearing the lock. With an hour to kill, we prepped the boat, made some phone calls, wrapped things up at the marina office, and grilled some chicken for lunch.
At 9 am, we dropped lines and motored down river passed the Tom Bevill Visitor Center.
We entered the Bevill Lock and Dam, secured the boat lines, and sat back to enjoy the beautiful sunny day. We happily locked through with Seaduction, a classy 52 ft. Carver, and Summer Cabin, a roomy 52 ft. Navigator, both from the Lake Michigan area on their way to Florida. Both boats had higher speed capacities and were eager to be in Florida, so with a wave, they passed on ahead.
Starboard at MM300.6, was the site of Memphis, a huge community establish in1841 (once had eight general stores, a post office, school, fine hotel, and two saloons). However, the bypassing of the railroad and dwindling river traffic led to its demise, and 135 years later there is no sign of the town.
Steve has a new “toy” for the boat- a remote control handset for the auto pilot. Rather than having to reach out and set courses on the navigational screen by hand, he can now sit in his captain’s chair and use a remote-never touching the screen!
At this point, we entered the section of waterway that is part of the natural river containing shorelines and high bluffs. With the beauty of the area, the 75’ temp, and the humming of the motors, Steve captained the boat while Mary curled up and took a nice long nap!
About 1:30 pm, Steve called the lock master at Heflin Lock and Dam (MM266) for information on locking. We were hoping that we wouldn’t hear the dreaded words (that a prior looper was told) “Hang around behind the bridge, and count the pigeons!” In other words, there are barges ahead of you-Don’t Bother Me! Luckily, we were given the green light, and the lock gates were open and waiting. How lucky can ya get?!
About 3 pm around MM265, Dream Chaser pulled off the channel, motored up the river that looped out just below the Heflin Dam, and dropped the anchor. Wonderful spot to spend the night!
It was a quiet evening dining on grilled chicken salad, planning for tomorrow’s adventure, and watching the TV program, “Sound of Music”, with Carrie Underwood. Great music!
Friday, December 6
Fog encompassed the river when we awoke at 6:45 am to a 52 degree morning. After eggs and toast, we pulled the anchor off the rocky bottom (with no hangups-hallelujah!), and wove our way back to the main channel to begin out 50 mile trek to Demopolis, AL. Motoring south, we watched TV reports of Nelson Mandela’s passing. It was no surprise, as he had been declining in health when we visited South Africa last July. “The Long Walk to Freedom”, Mr. Mandela’s autobiography, is well written and gives insight into his life and the country’s struggles. We’ll see if the movie is as powerful.
“I learned that courage was not the absence of fear, but the triumph over it.
The brave man is not he who does not feel afraid, but he who conquers that fear."
Nelson Mandela
The fog lifted slightly, but the rain fell on and off throughout the morning. Limited picture taking today due to fog and rain.
At MM 248.8, we saw the spectacular white cliffs of Epes, AL. These stunning cliffs are part of the Selma Chalk formations which were deposited about the same time as England’s white cliffs of Dover. Really quite impressive!
At 1 pm we motored into Demopolis/Kingfisher Bay Marina (MM216) and secured Dream Chaser in her slip. The marina is in a growth stage: relocating the marina to a better location, excavating for a new harbor, building condos, and creating an RV park. We were docked in the new part of the marina and we were very impressed with the layout and facilities. When completed, this marina may develop into one of the best destinations on the waterway.
History…
Demopolis was founded in 1817 by a small group of French pioneers determined to cultivate grape vines and olive trees. Many of these settlers were from wealthy military families who were used to the luxurious courts of Paris. Stories were told about the women doing their chores in brocaded gowns and satin slippers and the men in hats and capes. When the plan didn’t pan out, the French settlement had to be moved and some returned to Paris. American settlers purchased the land and laid out the town on a grid pattern planned after Philadelphia. Following the demise of cotton production, raising beef cattle and catfish have became popular. We find that Demopolis has many well-preserved plantation mansions, historic sites, and beautiful parks. The town is located atop White Bluff and lies within Webb’s Bend at the confluence of the Tombigbee and Black Warrior Rivers (MM217).
Soon after we docked, we discovered that Demopolis has one big celebration a year called “Christmas on the River” during THIS first weekend of December. Hurrah! This is the 42nd year of “Christmas on the River” with activities all weekend: tree lighting, concerts, plays, Christmas parade, Fair in the Square, mansion tours, 5K Jingle Bell Run/Walk, BBQ cook-off, evening gala, river dance, and nautical parade & fireworks display. We are off to discover…
At 5pm, we jumped in the courtesy car and headed to a Christmas tour of Gaineswood, a Greek Revival mansion, built by Nathan Whitfield. Amazingly, the building began as a two room dog-run cabin, was added on multiple times, and was completed in 1861. The 480 acre estate was named after George Gaines, Whitfield’s friend, who was instrumental in encouraging the French exiles to establish their Vine and Olive Colony which later became Demopolis. We enjoyed the beautifully decorated home and the narration by ladies dressed in period costumes.
After the tour, we grabbed provisions and headed to the Alabama State BBQ Championship Bar-B-Que Cook-Off. OH, WHAT AN EXPERIENCE!
The venue was outside and with wrist bracelets for $5 each, we walked from one party tent to the next eating BBQ everything (including pork butt), potato salad, baked beans, collard greens, chili, chips, and drinking sweet tea!
The history of Southern BBQ is worth mentioning...way back when...
Pigs were a popular low maintenance meat source and every part of the animal would be used. People would set the pigs loose and catch them when needed. When the animals were slaughtered, it became a time of celebration with neighbors and friends gathering together. The traditional Southern BBQ grew out of these gatherings.
We had a fabulous time at the BBQ Championships and along the way, we met some very interesting people- friendly down home guys!
The gentleman above is the head BBQ chef from the event tent sponsored by Air Gas.
We indulged in great BBQ, potato salad, baked beans, sweet tea, and great conversation
while it poured outside the tent. Loved his Apron!
Kickin' Butt Bar-B-Que from Linden, AL has won the cook-off the last two years. The head chef, treated us to BBQ ribs & chicken, collard greens, baked beans, and chili. Can't even begin to describe how the taste buds were tantalized by this BBQ! Delicious!
When we were too full to eat more, our new friend gave us containers of collard greens, chili, and a rack of ribs to take with us! Steve was in "pig heaven"!
Kickin' Butt Bar-B-Que is definitely a winner in our book!
Love those yummy collard greens!
In spite of the occasional downpour and mucky ground that kept trying to suck our shoes off, the cook-off was so much fun!!!
Outside, it is 39’, but Dream Chaser is toasty warm and our tummies are full!
Saturday, December 7
It's a nippy morning, very overcast with 30's outside, and no rain in the forecast!
In downtown Demopolis, the "Christmas on the River" activities are continuing. We missed the 5K Jingle Bell Run, but we watched the Christmas parade (along with thousands of adults and kids) as it snaked through downtown . John Deere was one of the sponsors, so...
With a steaming cup of hot chocolate warming our hands, we walked through the decorated town square full of art and craft tents. Hundreds of items were for sale, but we enjoyed people watching more. We followed our noses to the "food block" where vendors were selling anything and everything that was sweet or deep fried. We just couldn't pass up alligator on a stick!
At 6 pm, we hopped in the marina golf cart and found a great spot to watch the "Christmas on the River" nautical parade. While we cuddled to keep warm, fireworks exploded over the water and boats pulled dazzling lit Christmas displays up and down the river.
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