Saturday, October 26, 2013

Our Side Trip to Chattenooga: Florence to Ditto Harbor, Huntsville, AL

During the next two weeks, we will be taking a side trip up the Tennessee River to Chattanooga, TN and back to the Tenn-Tom Waterway.

Tuesday, October 22










This morning before we left our dockage at
Florence, we took a nice walk through the park
 area and came upon this pretty maple tree
 in the middle of the path.  The colors of fall in this
area are a little late in arriving, but we find touches
of color here and there along the way. 







This morning as we headed up the Tennessee River from Florence, AL, we are enjoying the quiet and the colors that appear along our route.  With Pickwick Lake beginning at MM 207, we have motored by awesome limestone bluffs, shores lined with hardwood trees, quiet bays, and cypress trees turning gold as fall progresses. This is a truly beautiful part of the country.













Wilson Lock and Dam







You see the turbulence as the water begins to fill
the lock.  Boats are told to tie up at the ends of the locks due to the tremendous turbulence
when the lock fills from the middle.












 The massive steel gates as seen from our boat.















As we approach Wilson Lock and Dam at MM 259.4, we were in awe of the massiveness of the structure.  One looper exclaimed when he caught site of the dam, “Damn that’s one big dam!”.  The dam has a lift of 93.5 feet and is the biggest lock in the eastern North America.  In 1925, Wilson Dam was the highest of its kind. 
The blinking yellow light turned to a green solid light, and we entered Wilson Dam with no wait time. We secured our mid-ship rope to the bollard, the movable vertical post on the lock wall, and waited for the lock to do its job.  The lock has huge steel doors and concrete walls almost nine stories high.  Locking took awhile as it takes about 50 million gallons of water to fill, so we found a comfortable, sunny spot and relaxed.





Wilson Lake is only about 15 miles long, but has depths of up to 125 feet.  This lake has more private lakefront homes per mile than any other lake in the state, it reminded us of Lake Minnetonka in Minnesota.  We motor onward, as the lake has limited anchorages.








 This one is for sale!













Fifteen miles later, at MM 274.9, we entered Joe Wheeler Lock and Dam, the lowest dam of all dams on the Tennessee River at 72 feet.  It is, however, the third longest at 6,342 ft.  With no wait, we entered the lock, and as the water rose, up went the Dream Chaser.
After clearing the dam, we motored about three miles to Joe Wheeler State Resort Park near Rogersville, AL.  The park is named after Joe Wheeler  who was a Confederate Major during the Civil War and was nicknamed “Fightin’ Joe”.   After the Civil War,  Mr. Wheeler was active in Congress and prominent in Alabama’s history so many attractions and places in this area bear his name.  This is a beautiful area with a great marina, good restaurant, and nice walks through the woods near the lake.  The pool would have been inviting if it had been warmer.  But it was cool!

We pulled into the marina, tied the dock lines, plugged in the electrical, and decided that we needed a walk.  Off we went, confident that we knew the way.  We had attended the AGLCA rendezvous last fall and had hiked the area. 



After about three miles of enjoying the path through the woods along the lake, we took a shortcut through the woods and ended up temporarily lost.   A short time later, we made our way to the restaurant in the lodge, and enjoyed a wonderful meal with large portions of tilapia, rice, steamed veggies, sweet potato fries, and salad.  As night began to fall, we made our way back to the boat and turned in early for a good night's sleep.

Wednesday, October 23
Our morning began cool and sunny with high cumulus clouds.  There was no forecasted threat of rain this week.  Yeah!  We are getting company on Thursday, so we are hoping for great weather.  It will be cold at night, but that should hasten the fall colors.
Steve had visited the lodge, earlier this morning, and returned with fresh, hot coffee.  Such a treat on a cold morning!


 This map shows our route from Joe Wheeler State Park to Decatur, LA.

 At 9 am, we threw off the bow lines and motored out of the Joe Wheeler Marina harbor.
As we entered Wheeler Lake, Our AGLCA flag and our US fag were flying straight out due to the stiff wind.  It was a bit bumpy with up to 1 1/2 ft waves on the lake. 




 The Delta Mariner.

 A large ship, the Delta Mariner from Huntsville, AL, met us as we were headed up river.  Curious as to what it was carrying, the captain replied that the ship was carrying a fuselage from Huntsville to Cape Canaveral, FL.

We passed TVA’s Browns Ferry Nuclear power plant which in 1974, was the world’s largest nuclear generating plant.



 Before we arrived at Decatur, we radioed the railroad bridge (a 9.8 foot lift span bridge),  at MM 304.4, to have the bridge raised.  They kindly complied, and we passed under the bridge without having to wait.  A former Memphis and Charleston Railroad bridge in this same location had been burned by the Union army to stop Confederate advances during the Civil War.
After clearing the railroad bridge, we spotted Decatur off our starboard just before we passed under the highway bridge.  To our port was the Riverwalk Marina where we planned to dock and overnight for Wednesday and Thursday nights.  The marina is in a great location with good protection, but no amenities except electricity.   We docked, tied up, and while Steve worked on projects in the boat, Mary took off in the rental car to treat herself to a pedicure in town and buy provisions for the week.
Decatur was built on land taken from the Cherokee Indians in 1820 which became an important military center during the Civil War.  In spite of being almost completely destroyed by Union troops during the Civil War, Decatur grew back into a prosperous industrialized city.
For dinner, we chose a Chinese restaurant in Decatur.  After returning to the boat, Mary made chicken soup and baked a coffee cake in anticipation of our guest arriving tomorrow from Seattle, WA.

Thursday, October 24
After waking to a cloudy, cool morning about 6 am, we readied the boat and headed to Nashville in the rental car.  We completed some errands and, about 10 am, picked up Mary’s cousin Sandy and her husband, Scott, at their hotel.  It was great to see them again!
After a quick trip to West Marine for boat needs, Scott suggested having lunch at Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint on Nolansville Road in Nolensville, TN. 

















What an experience, and what a mouth watering menu!  Appearing on Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives, Guy Fieri had featured the routine of making the Redneck Taco and the process of slow roasting a full size pig.  The Joint roasts one pig a day which is then used in the restaurant the following day.  When we arrived, the aroma from the roasting pig was wafting across the parking lot.  Mmmmmm!   So, of course...we had to experience the notorious Redneck Taco which consisted of slow cooked, pulled pork, with slaw over a griddle dropped corn bread hoe cake.  Simply delicious!









 Love this pig!









Since, Scott and Sandy had not seen Shiloh, we headed southwest to the Shiloh National Military Park.  We watched the film describing the battle of Shiloh at the visitor’s center, drove to Shiloh Church, and visited the cemetery. Walking down the path into the woods from the church, was thought provoking.  We were strolling on the very grounds where thousands of young men prayed, marched, ran, shouted, fought, and some breathed their last breaths. 






As we walked through the Shiloh National Cemetery, near the river, the huge, old oak trees stood dutifully with their large limbs spreading out over the graves.  The sun shone through the leaves highlighting many of the thousands of graves that spread out before us. A few graves had monumental markers, some had names inscribed on small rectangular markers, and others merely had a 10” square, white marble posts with a number inscribed on the top.  I wondered who 3535 was and how much his family must have missed him.  How about the other thousands that were buried here.  They were mostly young men caught up in a conflict that turned out to be much more deadly than they had ever imagined.  Their graves weren’t marked with a name, because the burial detail didn’t know who they were so the inscription was a number.  It was a very peaceful place to be laid to rest.







Scott and Sandy had read our previous blog regarding our great dinner at the Broken Spoke when we were in Grand Harbor, near Pickwick.   So, our group decision was dinner at the Broken Spoke Restaurant in Pickwick. 


We chose the catfish special, salad, and pecan pie.  Delicious!
After dinner and our two hour drive back to Decatur, we hauled suitcases and provisions into the boat and settled in for the night.  It was a cool night outside, but with blankets and comforters, we were snug and warm inside our cabins on Dream Chaser.

Friday, October 25   
Our morning began with all four of us waking up about 8 am to bright sun, cloudless blue skies and temps in the low 30’s.  The crockpot was ready with steaming, hot oatmeal with apples after cooking in the galley overnight.  We finished our meal with peach yogurt, cinnamon coffee cake, and hot steaming tea.  It was a great start to the day!
After errands in Decatur to Walmart and Home Depot, we returned the rental car and were shuttled back to the Riverwalk Marina.
At 11:30 am, we dropped the lines and pulled away from our dock at Riverwalk Marina in Decatur.
To our port side is the beginning of the Wheeler National Wildlife Refuge which will at one point continue on for about 15 miles.  This refuge contains 34,500 acres which is rich with ducks, birds, deer, fox, muskrats, mink, beaver and is the wintering ground for Canadian geese.

We relaxed as we enjoyed the scenery while motoring up the Tennessee River at 7.4 mph.  It was a great opportunity for Sandy and Scott to experience the boating life and view the beautiful scenery along the way.  We met tows with barges and several AGLCA looper boats headed from Chattanooga towards the Tenn-Tom Waterway.  Birds were plentiful along the way.


Lunch on board, while underway, was cabbage rolls, a green salad, and turtle brownies for desert. The guys ate their lunch at the upper helm while they manned the controls.


We arrived at Ditto Marina near Huntsville, AL in the afternoon.  After gulping 100 gallons of diesel at the gas dock, Dream Chaser motored into her dockage for the night.  We finished the coffee cake with our afternoon tea and coffee and our group of four headed for our 3 mile walk on some nearby paved trails.  Along the way, we spotted a little skunk, a deer, many birds, and investigated some bolls in a cotton field.  Scott and Sandy explained geocaching, and proceeded to find a mini-whatever along the walking path.






 Geocaching!









 The guys were fascinated by an old train trestle that passed over the trail and had to climb up and check it out.  Our route that led us back to the boat took us by  a large 83 foot wooden boat, Notorius which was docked in the Ditto Marina.  The boat, a 1953 Feadship motor yacht, was once owned by President Gerald Ford, actor Charlton Heston, and a Chicago mob boss.  The plans are to restore this boat back to its original glory.  The restoration will be a challenge!
After dinner of chicken soup, crackers, and salad, we challenged each other to a few games of Rummikub.  With no waves and cool air surrounding the boat, we snuggled into the beds in our cabins, resting for another exciting day ahead.






Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Clifton, TN to Florence, AL


Friday, October 18

















Clifton Marina turned out to be a wonderfully quiet dockage, and we woke to Dream Chaser wrapped in soup-thick fog.  The fog remained heavy throughout the morning which delayed our departure, so Steve worked on solving the glitches with our TV coverage, Mary baked pumpkin muffins, and we took our daily hike to downtown Clifton.

                  Dream Chaser and our fellow loopers in Erben Renewal at Clifton Marina.

The town was quiet on this early Friday morning, except for some activity at a corner  parking lot.  Since the town grocery store had burned down over a year ago, we were happy to find two local elderly men selling fresh produce, honey, and molasses from their pickup truck.  During our purchase of fruits, vegetables, and honey, we learned all about molasses and how it is processed.  After sampling the sticky, sweet molasses, we completed our three mile hike hauling our “goodies” back to the boat.









About noon, Dream Chaser headed out of the Clifton Marina and into the Tennessee River with a projected five hour cruise to the Pickwick Lock and Dam.  This beautiful section of the river was accented by limestone lined banks, an increase of people fishing, a family enjoying a warm fall day at the beach, a lonely cow on the river bank, a few tows with barges, and an increase in housing (large and impressive, average, trailer houses, and creative)












 Making the most of one of the last warm
  fall days.










 Tennessee River Towboat going down river
  with 15 barges.


One of the many large, beautiful homes along
 the Tennessee River.





  This is a more creative choice in housing
   along the Tennessee River.  Eight ocean
   freight containers combined to create a
   "home"!







The Dream Chaser's engines hadn’t been opened up to full throttle since we left Bayfield,WI (1,000 gallons of fuel ago), so now that we are ten miles from the Alabama border, Steve figured that it was time.  After 30 seconds of full power, there was such a cloud of smoke behind the boat, it was obvious that it was long over due.







This map shows the Tennessee River and mile markers along our route from the Kentucky Dam to the Pickwick Dam.  Today, we motored from about MM 150 to MM 200 (just before the Pickwick Lock and Dam)-about 40 miles.






 About 13 miles from the Pickwick Lock and Dam, we motored against a two mph current.  At MM 196, one mile later, we found a quiet anchorage on the backside of Diamond Island in a channel of what experienced boaters would call “good water” (no stumps and debris).  Following dinner, Mary watched a movie, and then Steve watched the 6th game of the Los Angeles vs St. Louis playoff series.   With our anchor light on and “Drag Queen” (our anchor alarm) activated, we were rocked to sleep by the gentle current.


Saturday, October 19

Steve was already up and plotting for the day, when Mary woke up.  It had been a great night’s sleep anchored behind Diamond Island in spite of the pack of coyotes howling in the night about 2 am.  
At 7 am, the sky was cloud covered, and the moon was on its way down behind the tree line.  Just as Steve started Dream Chaser’s engines, we were startled by two guys in a high speed fishing boat with at least 200 hp motors zooming by us in the narrow channel.  Five  minutes later while Mary was pulling the anchor, another equally equipped and very impressive fishing boat broke the quiet as it zoomed by down the channel.  We left our anchorage at Diamond Island and with temps in the 50’s, entered the Tennessee River channel.  Most of the morning, it was overcast and cool.


At MM 197.8, to our starboard side, the Shiloh National Military Park began covering 4,400 acres of land containing the Shiloh Battlefield.  This is the site of the Civil War’s first major combat in the western theater.  There are 156 monuments, 217 cannons, and over 650 historic tablets (pointing out troop locations and movements) in the preserved battlefield.  This battle resulted in the death of 23,746 soldiers, mostly young men under 30 years old of which many had never experienced war.  The film at the visitors center is a must see!



 Pictured above is Pittsburg Landing which was actually the name of a small settlement with a bustling steamboat landing.  General Grant used this area as the base of operations for the Union offensive using the Tennessee River to move his troops and supplies. This “Battle of Pittsburg Landing” took place on April 6 & 7, 1862.  Because of lack of dockage at Shiloh, we planned to acquire a car and drive back from Grand Harbor, our next dockage. 
So, Dream Chaser continued to motor along with temps in the high 50’s passing large beautiful houses along the Tennessee River.  Looking at a map, you could see that at one point in Pickwick Lake, Dream Chaser went in and out of Alabama, Mississippi, and Tennessee as the borders of these states meet in the lake.

When Dream Chaser arrived at the Pickwick Lock and Dam, we had only about a 30 minute wait and then in we went!  As we exited the lock, we entered Pickwick Lake and motored to nearby Pickwick State Park Marina. This is a very pretty area, and the huge dining room of the Pickwick State Park lodge is known for its $8 buffet of regional dishes.  Today, the specialty was catfish and pork loin with many other buffet dishes. We were looking forward to lunch since we had only had a banana for breakfast.  The lodge was a mile away-so we had our 2 mile hike for the day and a great lunch. 


       Dream Chaser docked at Pickwick State Park Marina


As we motored down Pickwick Lake, we saw some very impressive houses!





Now that 's a retaining wall!











Grand Harbor



 Boaters back their boats into their slip,
 set up a patio on the wide docks, add trees
 and flowers, and many have a golf cart to make
 the trips down the long docks easier.
Quite the Life!







 Back on Dream Chaser, we turn onto the Tenn-Tom Waterway and headed for Grand Harbor Marina. This marina is one of the nicest full service marinas we have seen. When the lines were tied and paperwork completed, we borrowed the courtesy car and headed to Shiloh. Earlier in the day, we merely motored by Shiloh, so now we will experience the park. The visit to Shiloh was very moving and definitely worth the visit. Back at the marina, as we handed the courtesy car keys to the next loopers, we were asked to join a group of loopers going out to dinner.  So 15 minutes later, we hopped in the van to Freddy T’s, a local restaurant- a fun, wacky place with great food, funky decor, and live local, country music upstairs.  





Freddy T's was a fun place, very busy, with
crazy fun decor.  Steve was checking out all
old water skis attached to the walls, sections of boats, and just crazy stuff.

  The pirate and the hula dancer were
  standing on the bar.  This is just a sample
  of the crazy decor.












 Sunday, October 20
As we woke this morning, a mystical fog swirled around us and rose from the water surrounding us. Gradually the swirls disappeared into the sunshine, and activity picked up on the docks with a few larger boats departing.  After a breakfast of oatmeal and fruit, we planned our course for the week, and then were off in the courtesy car for church at First Baptist in Counce, TN.

  Our answer to what we would do for lunch appeared before us in the form of the Broken Spoke Restaurant.  A very cool place (rustic with quaint 1940‘s decor), and everything is homemade!  We ordered the special, Boston Butt Pork Roast, followed by  pieces of pecan pie and strawberry cake. They really know how to cook down here in Tennessee!














 
The sun was shining, and it was a beautiful day as we motored east on Pickwick Lake and entered the state of Alabama.  The sky was blue and cloudless. Soooo nice to have warm sunshine even if temps only peaked at 60.  Except for a few big boats and half a dozen fishing boats, it was quiet and smooth sailing on Pickwick Lake. 

At 3:30 pm we entered the anchorage at Ross Branch or Rock Pile, at MM 229.9.  It is a small, tree lined cove with three rock piles that separates it from the main navigational channel of Pickwick Lake. It felt very safe, but even though we anchored into the wind, Dream Chaser moved around due to a shift in wind direction. Because the  cove is surrounded by high trees, the wind swirls around changing direction which moves the boat.






























While the bay initially appeared quiet, while we sat quietly on the bow of the boat and observed, there was constant activity and noises all around us.  Algae or, possibly, duck weed dominated the shallow, undisturbed portions of the bay.  There were small ripples on the water, as the boat gently adjusted itself with the wind current.   Birds were chirping, cawing, and squawking.  Thirty Canadian geese took flight and lined up as they flew over our boat honking in unison like a choir. Crickets hummed or buzzed nonstop.  A few ducks floating in the bay behind us flapped their wings.  An airplane could be heard overhead, and a truck hummed on a distant highway.  Occasionally, a large pleasure craft would motor down the navigational channel of the lake, most likely headed to Grand Harbor for the night.  It was simply a beautiful spot to sit and observe God’s creation.   This was our first night sleeping on the boat in Alabama!

Monday, October 21


We woke up with Dream Chaser engulfed in fog which started in the night and just grew thicker until morning.  It was a strange feeling being in the dark, foggy cove with fog swirling around. 
Our plan is to reach Florence, AL today, about 5 hours of motoring, so we pulled anchor about 9 am, with fog still lingering over the water. The fog cleared about 10 am, and the sky turned cloudless, blue, with bright sunshine.  The fall colors are not strong yet, but the trees have a bit more color this morning with the bright sunshine.


About 10 am, we passed under the mile long Natchez Trace Parkway Bridge. The Trace is a 444 mile long scenic parkway from Natchez, MS to Nashville, TN. The Trace was originally an Indian Trail that the French discovered, and then was later used by traders, missionaries, and soldiers over the years.  With the Natchez Trace Bridge stretched out behind us, we motor onward.


About 12, noon, we arrived at the Florence Harbor Marina in Florence, AL which is located in an area called The Shoals.  The town was named after Florence, Italy and has grown to over 36,000 residents.  
After tying the lines and finding the keys to the courtesy car, we headed to Ivy Green in Tuscumbia, AL, the birthplace of Helen Keller.  At 19 months old, Helen Keller became blind and deaf.  Helen was a half-wild, southern child  trapped in a world of quiet and darkness.  With guidance from Anne Sullivan, “the Miracle Worker”, Helen began to learn at a rapid rate, excelled in school, and became one of history’s most remarkable women.  She dedicated her life to improving the lives of the blind and deafblind around the world.  Mary’s passion to become a teacher was fueled by the books she read about Helen Keller, and the difference Anne Sullivan had made in Helen’s life.


                                         Helen Keller's original family home.

                                            The Rosenbaum House

Before we returned to the boat, we stopped at the Rosenbaum House, a home design by Frank Lloyd Wright and then to Walmart for provisions.
After dinner, we joined our friends, Meg and Jimmy, on Sanctuary for a evening of conversation and Rummikub.