Tuesday, April 8, 2014
Rain had fallen throughout the night, and, this morning, it was overcast and rainy with temps in the 60’s. Our fleece jackets felt very good this morning as we prepped for our departure from Savannah Bend Marina in Thunderbolt, GA. Docking outside of Savannah and renting a car had turned out to be a good plan. Not only did we have transportation and quiet dockage, but we saved time by not motoring off the ICW. Dockage was cheaper in Thunderbolt ($1.50 ft. vs. $2.75 ft. in Savannah).
At 8:40 am, the engines were warm, the lines and fenders stored, and
Dream Chaser was back on the ICW heading north. As we crossed the Savannah River, we entered into South Carolina.
As we entered the sound, the traffic increased- No question as to who had right of way, here!
Other than the tricky “Fields Cut” (another shallow passage on the ICW) which we passed through at low tide about 10 am, we should have a fairly easy day of motoring.
We passed Hilton Head which we had visited in the past, and it was fun to see it from the water.
These replicas of the Nina & Pinta, ships on which Columbus sailed across the Atlantic in 1492, were docked in Beaufort, SC as we motored by. The Nina is a sailing museum to educate the public on the 'Caravel' a Portuguese ship used by Columbus. The ships are visiting various ports.
Thanks to the tidal currents being in our favor, we reached Beaufort, SC (not to be confused with Beaufort, NC) about 3 pm. Just across the swing bridge from town is the Lady’s Island Marina, our dockage for tonight. Steve, the dock master, is “the best”. He can’t do enough for you and obviously loves his job! The marina is a wonderful facility, we were warmly welcomed, and we enjoyed visiting with the neighboring boaters.
Steve is "the man"! Best dock master ever!
After securing and registering
Dream Chaser, we took the one mile walk along the water and over the bridge to historic Beaufort, a quiet friendly town with southern charm.
Prior to the Civil War Beaufort was one of the wealthiest cities in the country due to to its production of Carolina Gold Rice and King Cotton. Beaufort was chosen as a naval port for troops during the Civil War and in 1861, Union battleships gathered here. The large homes in town were converted to military offices and hospitals. Due to its occupation by the Union troops, Beaufort was spared during Sherman's "March to the Sea". The area's prosperity plummeted as a result of the devastation from the 1893 hurricane, the boil weevil decimating the cotton crop, and the lack of slave labor. Over the years, military investments, resort development (such as nearby Hilton Head), and public awareness declaring it a “happy seaside town” has developed Beaufort into a popular destination.
We wandered along historic Bay Street, dropping into inviting shops along the way, and then walked along the waterfront park. We took one of the swinging wooden bench seat for a spin as we enjoyed the view of the waterfront. According to legend, John Cross Tavern, built in the early 1700's on Bay Street, was a known hangout for Blackbeard and other pirates who frequented the area. The town has many historic homes (some from the 1700‘s) and trees dripping with Spanish moss.
Tonight's dinner was on-board
Dream Chaser: grilled lobster with grilled vegetables. Yum!
We spent a quiet, restful evening on board, prepping chili for the crockpot, doing laundry, and watching the Dave Clark Five special on PBS.
Wednesday, April 9, 2014
Oh, what a beautiful morning- bright sun, blue skies, temps in the 60's with a high of 70 today!
It was a cool night, and we slept under two quilts with all the windows, portals, and hatches open. It was reminiscent of our nights in the old boy scout tent YEARS ago when we went camping in MN and Canada. The cool air blows in one side and out the other.
Our view of Beaufort from our dockage.
Breakfast is over, the chili in the crockpot is done to perfection, and the laundry is dry and put away.
We've planned our departure, this afternoon, so that we will reach a northern shallow stretch of the ICW at high tide. We can explore and play until 2:30 pm.
Our neighbors,
Island Time, are loopers with their home port in Cape Coral, Florida. They have two Yorkies, Cody and "Sissy"who know only the boat as home. This is Regina with Sissy. Really cute!
Our walk, this afternoon, took us to the Parish Church of St. Helena (Anglican), established in 1712, the oldest church in South Carolina. A cemetery surrounds the building and the grounds are enclosed by an aging stone wall. Stepping into the cemetery is like stepping back in time. The oldest marked grave was dated 1724.
The confederate spirit lives on.
On the north side of the grounds are the graves of the people who, because of death from dueling or suicide, were not allowed burial in hallowed ground.
A Greek Revival mansion (above) renovation was in process across the street at the Rhett House Inn (1820), and we had a great conversation outside with one of the workmen, Steve Ruberti. Originally from Maine, Steve moved to Beaufort two years ago and loves the area. The inn, an authentic plantation house, welcomes guests offering plush accommodations. The owners engaged Martha Stewart for their daughters wedding here at the inn. We had a tour of the inn followed by cookies and sweet tea. We learned that many of the old houses survived the Civil War because of the occupation of Beaufort by the Union troops. The Union troops did not destroy the towns, but- just the opposite. It was the Southerners that burned the structures as they fled, and then they blamed the Union for the destruction.
We walked by another authentic plantation house (above), The Anchorage. Beautiful!
A carriage ride is a great way to hear about the 500 year story of Beaufort. The Spanish, French, English, and Indians battled for Beaufort. There were Indian wars, massacres, pirates, slaves, filthy rich planters, the Revolutionary War, the Civil War, a catastrophic hurricane, and brave people in Beaufort.
The Columbus ships were still docked, so we toured both the Nina and the Pinta joining the large interested crowd. We found both ships very interesting. But Cleo who was guarding his sailboat,
The Fat Canary, docked nearby was on constant duty and not so happy; he didn’t get his nap.
Before we walked the mile back to the marina, we rested a bit on one of the park bench swings. What a view!
At 3 pm, we said farewell to our friends at Lady’s Island Marina, took our last look of Beaufort, and headed
Dream Chaser north up the ICW.
The weather is gorgeous, and is expected to remain that way for at least a week with temps in the low 80’s. We plan to arrive in Charleston by Thursday night and will spend the weekend. There is a huge sailing event going on, so lots of excitement ahead.
As
Dream Chaser entered St Helena Sound, near the inlet to the Atlantic, dolphins joined us during our crossing to the north. Two fighter jets streaked over head most likely from the navy marine base nearby.
The Ashepoo-Coosaw Cut was our concern today due to heavy shoaling, but we passed through near high tide, so there were no problems.
Dream Chaser continues to motor through this area of low country marshes which is a rich area for shorebirds. Also, there is the low country smelly slippery, brown-grey, marsh mud which they say isn’t mud but nutrient rich "pluff". Years ago it was harvested and spread over the cotton fields. It looks like mud, but smells!
At 6:15 pm,
Dream Chaser slid up to the dock at B & B Seafood House Marina in Green Pond, SC. right behind Billy B’s shrimp boat. In spite of the current from Mosquito Creek, we secured the lines to the floating docks and dropped the fenders without incident This is back country South Carolina, and they are on winter hours, so we haven’t seen anyone. And there is NO seafood for sale! :(
At night while lying in bed, we have heard a snap and crackling like dry twigs burning. This creates some anxiety! We have read that this sound is from tiny shrimp snapping their claws shut around the hull of the boat. No joke! It is a quiet and early evening.
Thursday, April 10, 2014
The engines started as the sun was thinking about coming up. Steve was up (no surprise), and Mary jumped out of bed when the motors started.
By 6:30 am, electrical was disconnected, the dockage fee left on the dock, lines untied, and fenders pulled.
Dream Chaser quietly slipped from the B & B Seafood dock and entered Mosquito Creek following her path back to the ICW. We are just coming off of high tide, so passing through the shallow areas, this morning, should not pose a problem.
All of a sudden, panic set in when one of the engines died. Mary had to captain the boat with one engine while Steve worked in the bowels of the boat to solve the problem. After about 15 minutes, Steve figured it out. He had been trying to balance the boat out using the fuel weight and moved fuel from one tank to the other, but forgot to turn the valve back on. So, after he learned how to prime the engine to restart it, all was fine again. Another learning experience!
The sun rose with brilliance over the low country marshland and temps are at 62. We’ve been experiencing mostly marshland since we left northern Florida, and it continues. Captain Steve is navigating from the upper helm, and we are enjoying steaming cups of coffee with Baileys (Irish Creamer).
The pelicans are gliding low over the water and the terns are diving down at their prey as the sun glistens off the rippling water. Other than the call of birds and the hum of the motors, it is a quiet peaceful morning. The setting reminds us of our cabin in Canada.
We are sharing the ICW with another “stink pot” (trawler) this morning who is up ahead. It’s a nice feeling to have another boat forging the path through the shallows.
The one thing we will NOT miss when we leave the low country is the little no-see-ums or sand flies. Last night, they were everywhere, and you can’t wave them away. This morning they are back! They sit on you and chew until you swat them. Their little beaks attack your flesh, deposit their venom, you swell up, and then itch for days.
A large gator appeared off our starboard side swimming in the channel, but disappeared when he saw us. We haven't seen very many gators along the ICW.
As we neared Charleston, we noticed the trawler we had been following earlier in the day was stopped in the middle of the channel ahead of us. At first we thought they had run aground, but as we came closer, we saw that they had been stopped by a Charleston police boat! ???
By 12:30 pm, we were docked at St. Johns Yacht Harbor on the Stono River only three miles from the edge of historic Charleston. The marina and a restaurant, Stono Breeze, are the only businesses in the immediate area, but we walked the boardwalk and checked it all out.
As we walked down the docks to the boat, we heard a rooster crowing repeatedly. We hunted the noise down and found Slocum, a parrot owned by Mr. McCarter who lives on
Esperance, a sailboat docked nearby. Slocum loves to talk, has an attitude, and quite a repertoire for conversation, but it was the rooster crowing that got our attention. He sounds just like a rooster!
During the day, Slocum is in his cage on the roof of the sailboat.
It was a laid back afternoon of planning for the next three days and scheduling our next two weeks.
At 6 pm, we decided on dinner at a restaurant off the beaten path called Fat Hen. Tucked along the side of the road on St. John’s Island, it serves innovative Lowcountry French cuisine.
Little red chicken tracks led us from the parking lot to the entry door, and inside, the decor is french country. Our appetizer was fried green tomatoes with goat cheese and oh...the crusty bread! We both ordered one of their famous dishes, Shrimp and Crab (with bacon, julienne vegetables, spinach, pimento cheese and a bit of spice). Exceptional!
A bit of history: The Huguenots were French Protestants persecuted for their faith who in the late 1600’s fled France for Europe and North America. In 1685, the first ship of Huguenots landed in the Charleston area and over the years the community grew. These people were educated, skilled, and had a love of food. French Lowcountry cuisine is this combination of French cuisine and fresh local ingredients of the South.
After that wonderful dinner, a walk through town was a must! We strolled down busy historic East Bay Street passed restaurants, shops, and bars. The smells and sounds from the restaurants floated out to the sidewalks. Groups following the ghost tours were gathered here and there as tales were told of blood, murder, and death. Other people were out enjoying the great weather and wonderful evening. We met a couple that had just become engaged (minutes prior), and Steve volunteered to capture the moment on camera. We turned on Vendue St., followed it to the waterfront park, found an empty bench swing, and just enjoyed the evening as we looked out over Charleston Harbor.
Friday, April 11, 2014
The sun rose brilliantly over Charleston, so it should be a good picture taking day.
We have a rental car to for the weekend, and we are ready for a day of adventure. Yes, it really is as little as it appears. We drive defensively and can park just about anywhere!
(Below) This is the main house at Magnolia Plantation and Gardens.
View of the house from the road.
View of the house from the river.
At 10:30 am, we arrived at Magnolia Plantation and Gardens which has been in the family since 1676 and, now, home to the 11th generation of Draytons. The plantation has survived the American Revolution, the Civil War, and beyond. Thomas Drayton built the original house in the 1680’s (which was later replaced) and son, Rev. John Drayton redesigned the plantation formal gardens when he took over ownership. The plantation has about 500 acres of garden and grounds.
The tour of the current house (completed after the Civil War) gives a look into plantation life in the 1800‘s, and covers the history of the Drayton family. The house is furnished with early-American antiques, and family heirlooms. No photography was permitted.
The boat tour took us through the plantation’s old flooded rice fields along the Ashley River. Our captain explained rice growing and the importance of the river while we spotted wildlife: alligators, egrets, turtles, wood ducks, and other birds.
The “Nature” tram took us through a portion of the wildlife habitats and gardens and a naturalist discussed the history and pointed out wildlife along the way. There were other animals on the property, also such as peacocks, guinea hens, cats, birds...
For our friends who love horses!
This guy definitely had an attitude!
And then there were the gardens!!!
“Give fools their gold and knaves their power, Let fortune’s bubbles rise and fall,
Who sows a field or trains a flower or plants a tree, is more than all” Whittier
The plantation gardens open to the public since the 1870’s are not formal, but instead, have a natural tranquil quality. There are many varieties of flowers, including camellias, daffodils, azaleas, and year round bloomers. The camellias had just finished their Spring bloom, but we experienced the peak bloom of the azaleas. It was magical!
There were the azaleas...
And don't forget the wisteria!
The gardens were beautifully done and went on and on.
This is just one of many paths through the garden with azaleas everywhere!
They don’t know the age of this huge Magnolia Plantation Oak, but is was recorded as “large” three hundred years ago. With a circumference of 30 ft., it has been hollow for over 100 years, and is one of America’s largest live oaks.
You've probably notice the Spanish Moss hanging from the trees. Do you remember the saying, "Don't let the bed bugs bite"? Back in the day, they used to stuff their mattresses with this moss.
It harbors tiny biting larvae (chiggers), so the bugs would come out and bite at night!
We took the tour “From Slavery to Freedom”. Five million slaves came to
coastal North America and 40% came through Charleston. We explored the
four remaining slave cabins on this plantation (out of 13 that once existed) from the
1850’s, 1870’s, 1920’s, and 1960’s. A family actually lived in one of
the cabins until 1999. Before 1865, the Magnolia Plantation owned about
150 slaves during a 175 year period. John Drayton provided an education
for the children, but at ten years old children began to work in the
fields. The major crop was Carolina Gold Rice which required massive
labor and made the Drayton family extremely wealthy.
The Swamp Garden was the last area of the plantation where trees grow from the water, islands appear to float, and wild creatures coexist. We walked along dikes, boardwalks and bridges where cypress and tupelo gum trees are surrounded by black water. Hundreds of egrets, herons, and many other birds nest here while snakes are watching for their chance to get a meal. We walked by a tree where a rat snake lay after eating the contents of one of the bird houses. Sorry, no picture of the snake!
On our way through the Swamp Garden, we met Ms. Hurley who has a home in the area (originally home was New Jersey) photographing waterfowl with a VERY impressive camera and lens. We began to chat, and she filled us in on great eating spots and fun things to do in Charleston and the surrounding area. She told us to call her if we had any questions. Thanks Ms. Hurley!
Dinner tonight was at JB’s Smokeshack on John’s Island. Their pork,
brisket, and ribs are cooked over Hickory wood, and their chicken is
slow cooked over apple wood. Yum!
Their slogan is “ flavor’s in the meat, sauce on the side”. The buffet includes baked beans, okra, white rice, green beans, slaw, collards, corn fritters, black eyed peas, potato salad, macaroni, banana pudding, and a few more items, including sweet tea. Not fancy, just good southern comfort food!
Needless to say, after all that food we needed...a walk. We ended up on Church Street in Charleston, walked for a couple hours through the City Market, and popped into several shops along the way. Steve found a candy shop with his favorite...salt water taffy.
Saturday, April 12, 2014
At 10:30 am, we took a delightful carriage ride through the streets of charming Charleston to learn more about the city and it's story. Our guide was excellent, and Vern (our horse) was slow and steady.
We noticed the large amounts of beautiful wrought iron in fencing, gates, and balconies. Philip Simmons was the most celebrated of Charleston iron workers of the 1900's.
Above is an example of a "single house" which is a long narrow house only one room wide with it's entry on the side.
The symbol of the pineapple is on homes, gates, and gardens all throughout the city of Charleston. It is believed that, years ago, when sea captains returned from sea, they would impale fresh pineapples outside their porches to let others know they were welcome to stop by and visit. Another version of the story is that when the woman of the house wants company, she puts out the pineapple. When the pineapple disappears, its time for the company to go home.
Rainbow Row is a row of 13 colorful historic houses painted in pastel colors. Originally, the first floor was commercial with living quarters above. These painted buildings survived the fire of 1778.
This is only one of many beautiful homes in Charleston.
As we passed through the Battery and then along Charleston Harbor, we had a great view of Ft. Sumter. We were reminded that 153 years ago today, the first shot of the Civil War was fired from Charleston towards Ft. Sumter. The people of Charleston have tended towards rebellion. In 1765, the towns people refused to pay taxes to England (that was prior to the Boston Tea Party).
The sights you see on the tour is too long to list-you need to come see this beautiful city!
Lunch was at Magnolias on East Bay St. We both ordered Shellfish over Grits: sauteed shrimp, scallops, and lobster over creamy white grits, with lobster butter sauce and fried spinach. Wonderful!
This afternoon, we headed to Boone Hall Plantations and Gardens in Mount Pleasant, minutes from Charleston. In 1681, Major John Boone established this plantation on the banks of Wampocheone Creek. In 1743, his son, Captain Thomas Boone planted live oak trees which are now huge. Today, 93 live oaks form the scenic entry drive to the house. The trees are about 260 years old.
For a period of time, the plantation produced indigo, rice, cotton, and bricks. Their brick factory produced bricks for Ft. Sumter and many prominent landmarks in the area. We took tours of the house, acreage, and a presentation on slaves and their history.
This is one of the nine remaining brick slave houses (1790-1810). Usually these houses were wooden, but this plantation had a brick factory, so the seconds were used for buildings on the property.
We attended a presentation of the evolution and development of the Gullah Culture in the Lowcountry. The slaves often sang field songs which set the pace for work in the fields.
Boone Hall Plantations has been the location for filming many movies and TV programs such as: the Notebook and North & South.
Back at the marina, there was a celebration for the marina members and guests, so we enjoyed a buffet catered by JB's Smokeshack from John's Island. Great food!
At 7 pm, we attended the "Sounds of Charleston" at the Circle Church in historic Charleston. The concert included gospel, spirituals, Civil War camp songs, classics, and music of Gershwin. Following the concert, we joined many other people out for a walk in historic Charleston.
Sunday, April 13, 2014
It was beautiful sunny day, blue skies, temps in the high 70's, and we are still in Charleston, SC. :)
Friends from the Mt. Pleasant area, John and Sandy Miller, dropped by to see Dream Chaser. We attended a church service and had great fun touring the Charleston area, together.
We attended the 11:30 service at Seacoast Church in Mt. Pleasant. The church began in 1988 with 65 people meeting in an apartment clubhouse, and the membership has grown dramatically. The church has continued to grow, but due to building size restrictions at this site, the growth has been directed to 11 satellite churches throughout North and South Carolina. Great music and an inspiring message!
Lunch was at Water's Edge Restaurant on Shrimp Boat Lane. Seated outside at a table overlooking Shem Creek, we dined, chatted, and were entertained by all the activity on the water. Shem Creek is home to 20-25 shrimp trawlers and great seafood! Shrimp boats and pleasure craft were docked along the channel, some two and three deep. Boaters, kayakers, paddle boarders shared the channel.
Our food was amazing: Cajun Calamari and Shrimp & Grits (sauteed shrimp, sausage, mushrooms, onions, and roasted bell peppers over steamy grits with a delightful sauce). Mmm!
After lunch, this little guy took a liking to Steve! It is an Eclectus Parrot who was visiting outside the restaurant with his owner and gave Steve a little nip on the ear.
Our afternoon drive took us to the very busy and pretty Isle of Palms, and then through Charleston.
Dessert was at 39 Rue De Jean, a French
Bistro located in an 1880's two story brick
warehouse on John St. in historic Charleston.
Mary had this spot on her "To Experience
List", so she was thrilled!
Seated in the atmosphere of a French
Brasserie, we ordered the Vacherin-
vanilla bean ice cream, raspberry sorbet,
meringue, whipped cream, and
toasted almonds. And coffee.
C'était délicieux!
The Vacherin was delightful!
It was wonderful spending the day with
John and Sandy-to catch up on family
"stuff" and experience more of the
Charleston area.
We have become very fond of Charleston, SC and plan to return sometime in the future.
