Monday, April 14, 2014
The alarm went off at 6 am, the engines started at 6:15, and 15 minutes later, Dream Chaser left her dock at the St. John’s Yacht Harbor.
We motored by the city of Charleston, under the bridges we have been driving over, and past Ft. Sumter.
The sun was out for awhile, but the rest of the morning remained overcast with light sprinkles and temps about 72. A few AGLCA looper boats passed us on the Ditch (ICW), but there has been minimal traffic.
Through a 2 mile stretch, up to 30 terns followed us in Dream Chaser’s draft and swooped down and caught minnows in our wake.
Just north of Charleston and along the west side of the ICW is a national forest named after General Francis Marion. General Marion was a lesser known Revolutionary War General who lurked in the swamps. With a small guerrilla band, he would ambushed the British, raid their supply depots, rescue captured American prisoners, and then disappeared back into the swamps. General Marion had grown up in the area, so he knew it well, and the British never caught him.
Our next stop was Georgetown, SC, the third oldest city in SC and declared a royal province by Prince George of England in 1721. The town has beautiful colonial architecture and 63 historic buildings dating back to 1737. Prior to the Civil War, massive amounts of rice were shipped from this harbor bringing extreme wealth to many southern families. Now, shrimping and the paper mill are the main industries. Over 20 shrimp boats bring their catch to the docks when in season.
About 4 pm, we docked at the Harborwalk Marina and headed to town before the stores closed. There are a number of cute stores along Main St. including the necessary ice cream shops. We walked the oak lined streets and the charming waterfront boardwalk overlooking the Sampit River.
In Sept. 2013, Georgetown had a fire that destroyed several buildings along the main street and boardwalk, but there is still a nice variety of shops left. It has been cloudy and rainy most of the day, so when the sun broke through the clouds at 5:30 pm, it was wonderful. The wind is blowing in the right direction, so the nearby paper mill isn’t a problem today.
We considered eating aboard for dinner, but the thought of a real good shrimp dinner won out. We decided on The River Room on the waterfront. We ordered shrimp meals, but were disappointed that the shrimp wasn't fresh, but precooked. Obviously having shrimp boats docked nearby is no guarantee that the shrimp is good. Our recommendation is to eat at The Big Tuna aka The Old Fish House. In spite of the strong wind, the bugs were ravenous, so we cut our stroll on the boardwalk short.
Tuesday, April 15, 2014
Just after 7 am, the engines started and the departing process was in place. We said good bye to new friends, Russ and Elaine Sturm aboard Twelve Stones, bid farewell to Georgetown, and motored back to the ICW.
It’s cloud covered this morning, threatening rain, and cool enough to want a sweatshirt. We plan to motor for a few hours, and if it gets nasty, we have some options in mind. Steve is already tired of wearing his fleece jacket and wants to go back to a t-shirt and shorts existence: we are missing the sun and warmth from the Keys and Bahamas.
North of Georgetown, we began to see more Cyprus and hardwood trees. Instead of marsh grasses, the large trees with Spanish moss line the side of the river and osprey are nesting. The ICW follows the Waccamaw River for about 30 miles.
We passed Bucksport (M 377) named after Captain Henry Buck from Bucksport, ME who came to SC in search of lumber and is known for shipbuilding in both locations. We are happy to have gained two hours of travel due to the current going our direction.
At M356.3, we looked for the gondola (with a 65 ft. clearance) that crosses the ICW carrying golfers from one side to the other. Would have been cool to get a picture, but we didn't.
At 2 pm, Dream Chaser slid up to the 500 ft. dock at Barefoot Landing Marina (M354) in North Myrtle Beach. Happy to get off the boat and ready for a walk, Mary headed to the open air mall with numerous specialty shops and factory outlets across the street from the docks.
Myrtle Beach was settled by Europeans in the 1750’s, and they attempted a plantation of indigo and tobacco. The sandy soil produced poor crops, and the 1822 hurricane wiped out the area. In 1899, the railroad and lumbering entered the picture, and the tourists followed soon after. More than 14.6 million people visit annually for the beaches, championship golf courses, amusement parks, shopping, and great restaurants. Myrtle Beach is the birthplace of the Shag, a swing dance, which is the official dance of South Carolina.
Needing a walk, we stopped by the House of Blues. There are no scheduled shows during our stay in the area, but Steve was thrilled to check out a replica of the famous Bluesmobile from the movie, Blues Brothers, one of his favorite.
At 7 pm, we headed to The Alabama Theater for a musical production called One. It was a great evening of superb family entertainment through comedy, song (pop, country, and classic), and dance.
While we were in the theater, it rained buckets, winds increased, and temps dropped significantly. We remembered a few windows left slightly open on the boat...oh, well!
Tomorrow, we will pass into North Carolina and leave the Lowcountry of South Carolina behind.
We will miss the Lowcountry cooking which is based on the African traditions of the Gullah communities. These dishes usually start with local seafood like shrimp, oysters, crab, and/or fish. Then they add some of the following: okra, peanuts, rice, peas, greens, tomatoes, corn, hot peppers, or watermelon. Some are one pot creations like frogmore stew and she-crab soup. Good stuff!
South Carolina has inspired many writers and has been the filming location for movies. Some of the books are: Swamp Fox, Black April, Wind From the Carolinas, The Water Is Wide, and many cookbooks. Films have been shot in communities along the ICW, such as: The Patriot, Forrest Gump, Big Chill, Prince of Tides, Cold Mountain, Dear John, Something To Talk About, and The Notebook. We love South Carolina!
Wednesday, April 16, 2014
The morning began overcast with temps in the low 40’s. It had been a great night of rest at Barefoot Landing Marina, and, in spite of the 20-25 mph winds out of the north, we are heading on towards Wilmington, NC. We don’t even want to think about what the crossing from the Bahamas would be like today with this wind out of the north.
On departure, Bob, a neighboring boater, released our lines, wished us “good sailing”, and we were headed north.
Today, we pass through the dreaded “Rock Pile” along Pine Island Cut (from M 349.9 to M 352.2). S When the Army Corps dredged this section of the Ditch (ICW), they found cretaceous limestone in the path of the dredging which had to be blasted. This rock removal became challenging and expensive, so as a result, they narrowed the channel. Although millions of tons of rock were removed, the navigating channel is narrow.
We have called ahead on our marine radio to announce that we are entering this section of the ICW. No response means, hopefully, that no one is coming south, so ten minutes after leaving the marina, we are committed. Some guides suggest navigating this section during low water, so the captain can see the rock edges, but we passed through with one foot above mlw (mean low water).
Our passage through the Rock Pile was uneventful, and we continue on passing many marinas and many huge houses- some with interesting paint choices!
As we passed Little River Inlet (M340.9) we entered North Carolina. We have traveled about 13 miles, and the view has changed to become more wooded with sand dunes and beach property.
As we reached Ocean Isle Beach, the land thins between the ICW and the Atlantic Ocean, and we could see the ocean waves crashing onto the beach.
At 11 am, we passed Lockwoods Folly, a small inlet, where we can see the raging ocean. So nice to have the ICW with 8” waves. This inlet was named for Mr. Lockwood who built a wooden boat planning to launch it through this inlet. However, it wasn’t to be because the boat’s draft was too deep for the inlet. Mr. Lockwood left his new boat abandoned high and dry in the shallow inlet. Dredging has taken place repeatedly at this inlet, but the tidal current continues to redeposit the sand.
Up until 11:30 am, the current had been going with us, but now, like flipping a switch, the current is against us and we are slowed by 1-2 mph.
We have been navigating from the lower helm with the heat turned on since we exited the Rock Pile.
Steve does all the steering off the wireless controller in his hand; no need for a steering wheel anymore. We purchased this device while motoring the Illinois River- 3,000 miles ago. Great investment!
It’s a gorgeous sunny day, but the temps haven’t hit 50 yet. Lunch of chicken salad and bean soup is being enjoyed as we motor by many million dollar homes on the edge of Southport, SC.
At 12:30 pm, we entered the wide, rough Southport Channel sharing the water with larger vessels and ferries. We were reduced to 4 mph (losing 4 mph) due to the waves and strong current which will cause a dramatic delay in our schedule.
So glad we are not off shore for this section of the trip. We would have to enter the inlet by Cape Fear and make our way around islands to the Cape Fear River. Cape Fear is aptly named for it has seen the the terror of pirates and has treacherous shoals that extend 30 miles out to sea.
We followed the Cape Fear River for about eight miles. As we turned towards Carolina Beach to the east, Carolina Beach State Park will be our dockage for the next two nights. It’s a great park with six miles of trails, camping, a nice waterfront, and an interesting visitors center.
By 3 pm, Dream Chaser was tied securely, and we picked up a rental car and drove east to the Blue Water Restaurant in Wrightsville Beach, NC. The Amberjack fish tacos and grilled shrimp were delightful. We were hungry after a long day on the ICW.
Our next stop was the riverfront in the heart of Wilmington (above) with treelined streets, quaint stores, and great seafood restaurants. Once a bustling port for cotton, flour, and hominy, the restored 19th century warehouses, like the Cotton Exchange, are now inviting specialty shops and restaurants. We walked along the cobblestone streets and listened to the clip clop of the horse’s hooves as the carriage tours passed. The beautiful antebellum homes are wrapped in picket fences, jasmine, and magnolias. Due to its charm, many productions by Screen Gems Studios have been filmed in the Wilmington area, such as Dawson’s Creek, One Tree Hill, The Secret Life of Bees, and Night’s in Rodanthe.
Thursday, April 17, 2014
It’s a balmy 39 degrees in Carolina Beach this morning, but there is brilliant sun and a forecast of perhaps 60 later today. It was a quiet night of rest with only our flag fluttering on the bow.
We are ready for a great day!
At 8:30 am, we drove Highway 421 south to catch the Ft. Fischer Ferry to Southport, NC. Southport, established in 1792, is a peaceful little fishing village and so quaint that it has been chosen as a location for many films. Nicholas Sparks lives in nearby New Bern and chose Southport as the location for filming Safe Haven and A Walk to Remember. We watched Safe Haven (again), last night, so we could identify the filming locations in town.
Our tour guide, Dan, drove an 8 person golf cart named Monica. Yes, there was some connection with Bill Clinton and the cart. Dan was not only extremely entertaining with continuous jokes, but also provided a wealth of information and answered all our questions. History was brought to life as we drove by the old-fashioned store fronts, historic buildings, Victorian homes, filming locations, and motored down lanes lined with ancient oak trees.
Apparently after seeing this movie, an inspired young girl decided to take her sleeping bag and sleep under this bridge. Thankfully, the police found her before the alligator, who often frequents this spot, found her.
This tree was in front of one of the churches
in Southport. These knit pieces wrapped around
the tree are in memory of people from the church
who have passed away.
Southport, established in 1792, has an interesting history and has (in the area) celebrities such as Meg Ryan, Tom Cruise, and many more. Dan told us about Cher stopping at the village marina in a 110 foot yacht with three crew members dressed in formal Italian sailing uniforms. Dan thought they looked very silly! It was quite the scene! About every other week there is a film crew and celebrities filming in the village or nearby. Last Monday, the crew and several members of the main cast of Under the Dome were in Southport filming for season two. It is a TV series based on the 2009 Stephen King novel. The film crew for The Longest Ride by Nicholas Sparks has been filming in the village every other week.
We spent the rest of the morning along the waterfront strolling on the Riverwalk. We read the historic markers; watched the freighters, ferries, and sailboats navigate Cape Fear River; and sat a spell on one of the wooden swings along the way.
Of course, Mary had to get a coffee at the Moore St. Market, Deli, and Coffee Shop. Early in the movie, Safe Haven, Katie and Jo met at this popular Southport eatery. She also picked up some canned "Chow Chow" which is an interesting local specialty of cabbage, peppers, onions, vinegar, jalapeno peppers, and spices that the locals mix with beans and peas.
The fish tacos and quiche were superb!
Great food and creative presentation.
Our next stop was Holden Beach located on an Atlantic coastal barrier island with eight miles of marvelous sandy beach. This was the second highlight of our day-The Beach! We walked three miles on the packed sand beach and noticed that a beach can be enjoyed in many ways!
Some people are just out for a bike ride on the packed sand of the beach.
Fishermen are scattered along the beach hoping for some action with their rods.
Our dinner spot was decided when Mary asked one of the locals where they went for seafood. So, off we went to the Silver Hill Grill which is open Thursday-Sunday from 12 noon until they close...?
The Silver Hill Grill is a plain little building along the road, but they serve up hefty portions of seafood and other grill items. Our shrimp, crab, and scallop dinners with coleslaw, fries, and hush puppies were $9.99! We were stuffed! The secret is: Ask the locals!
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