The Journey continues June 2015

The Journey continues June 2015.

This is the last posting on our Great Loop blog until the Summer of 2015.  Dream Chaser is being stored for the winter, and we will return next summer to continue our adventures through Canada.  Our journey will begin in Albany, NY and continue to Lake Champlain, Quebec, Montreal, Ottawa, the Rideau Canal, the Trent Severn Canal, Lake Champlain, and back to Lake Michigan.
After the completion of our trip by July 31, 2015, Dream Chaser will be available for a new captain and admiral to take over.  She is the perfect boat for the Great Loop!  For those of you who are interested, please contact Steve at 612-483-5693 for further information.  At the completion of our trip, Dream Chaser will have less than1600 hours on the hull and motors and the Genset will be around 400 hours.  She has been extremely well maintained, and her clearance can be brought down to under 15 ft. very easily.  Dream Chaser has never had pets aboard, and has been totally non-smoking.
As this portion of our trip ends, we have covered almost 6,000 miles and are amazed at how quickly the time has passed.  What a wonderful adventure the Great Loop has been.  Until we return to Dream Chaser to complete the final leg of the Great Loop, you may find us at our cabin, visiting friends and family, taking a road trip, or boarding a plane for another adventure.  It has been a joy to share our life changing experiences with you.  Until we return, remember, live life to the fullest and think about each day as a new adventure.  This guy has the right idea!

Side Trip to Canada by car

Side Trip to Canada
Last night at 4:30 pm, we arrived in the charming historic community of Sackets Harbor, NY  located on the eastern shore of Lake Ontario. Settled in 1801 by Augustus Sacket, the area became a major staging base for American military operations on the Great Lakes.  There were six forts built around the harbor:  Pike, Stark, Chauncey, Virginia, Kentucky, and Thompkins.  During the War of 1812, it was the most active naval base in US with two important battles fought here.  The US and British were involved in shipbuilding in order to fight for control of Lake Ontario.  In the end the two navies never met in a major battle on this lake.  After the War of 1812, Sackets Harbor became a permanent army post and key to the country’s northern defense.
Dream Chaser's dockage was at Madison Barracks Marina, a 15 minute walk east of town.  After the War of 1812, Madison Barracks was built as a planned $85,000 military post and considered an important post in the nation’s defenses. It was expanded multiple times. It has played an important role in all our nation’s wars from 1812 to WW II.  Sections of the earlier limestone barracks, known as Stone’s Row, still stand, and the area is now privately owned and being renovated.
Beginning in 2012 and continuing through 2015, Sackets Harbor has joined the nation in the commemoration of the Bicentennial of the War of 1812. This is the weekend for the annual re-enactment at the Battlefield State Historic Site.

Sunday, August 3, 2014

Our morning began sunny and warm.  Even though the humidity had dropped, we left the air conditioning on in Dream Chaser because this afternoon, the coolness will be welcoming.

At 9:45 am, we walked to
Sackets Harbor and joined
the crowd gathering for the
festivities. On our way, we
passed a burial grounds in
honor of the US soldiers
who died serving their country
during 1812-1818. Also, we
pass this beautiful pot of
flowers growing off the
back of a mailbox.
Beautiful!

The building, above, is Sacket's Mansion, built by Augustus Sacket in the early 1800's.  Sacket was founder and developer of the settlement and organized an artillery company which aided the US in the War of 1812.  During the war, the mansion was used as a hospital for injured soldiers and sailors, and it is now the town's visitors center.
Today is the final day of the Annual War of 1812 Living History Weekend.  Re-enactors from the US and Canada have gathered at the battlefield for a tactical weapons display.  Encampment tents were set up in an area overlooking Lake Ontario and participants were in historical dress.

The seamstress had her own tent in the encampment.

About 10 am, the cannons began firing down on the symbolic British sailing ship on Lake Ontario and the ship responded in turn.
About 11 am, we witnessed the re-enactment of a skirmish on the battlefield between British and their foe...the US.

By 1 pm, we had returned to Dream Chaser, finished lunch, and pulled the boat lines for departure to Oswego, NY, our destination for tonight.
Under sunny skies, Dream Chaser motored five hours across Lake Ontario with waves less than a foot high and 5 mph winds.  Perfect conditions for crossing the BIG water. This will be our last crossing of Lake Ontario on this trip, but we will venture into the lake again next summer.  During the first hour, we shared the lake with several sailboats, but soon we were alone with no land in sight.

At 5:30 pm, we exited Lake Ontario, passed through the first lock, and tied up on the canal wall in the town of Oswego.   Oswego was built on the ruins of three 18th century forts and on the site where several battles took place during the French and Indian War and the Battle of 1812.  Although the weather was threatening, we took a walk along the canal and read the plaques which told some of the story of Oswego.
The town of Oswego flourished in the 1800's and many mills were built in this location.  There was a Cotton Mill and also a Shade Cloth Factory which were powered by water from the canal.  During WWII,  the factory produced blackout cloth for windows to reduce detection by enemy bombers in Great Britain.
While we ate our dinner aboard Dream Chaser, we enjoyed the rushing roar of the rapids which parallels the canal.
Tonight the air feels like Fall, cooling down into the 60’s.

Monday, August 4, 2014

By 9:30 am, Dream Chaser was on the move, had entered Lock 7 on the Oswego Canal, and was waiting for the 14.2 lift.  We are retracing our path back to Brewerton, NY.  We have 4 hours of travel today, and it is a gorgeous morning!  Not much traffic on the canal today.
By 2 pm, Dream Chaser had slipped into her dockage and was securely tied. 

Tuesday, August 5, 2014
We hopped in the rental car and headed to Clayton, NY.  We are exploring by car for a few days!

At 11:30 am, lunchtime found us at Bella's in Clayton.  Our table, on the outdoor patio, was next to the St Lawrence River.  Gorgeous spot, Great Food, Perfect Weather!  Highly recommended!

Our main destination was the Antique Boat Museum, a freshwater nautical museum, with over 200 antique boats, inboard and outboard motor collection, over 3,000 artifacts, archival materials, boat rides, boat building, and restoration classes.  We saw some of the world's most noted racing boats. The museum has the largest collection of inland recreational boats in the world and is home to one of the longest running antique boat shows. All the boats are artifacts.  Boats tell stories about the people who used them!  This is a "Do Not Miss" experience!
In the days when wealthy, prominent families sought the fresh air and beauty of this area, grand hotels, cottages, and yacht clubs sprung up to cater to the wealthy.  Skiffs were the main mode of transportation which took the families everywhere from grocery shopping to church.  Tourists could easily rent a skiff and row to a calm island bay for an afternoon of picnicking, swimming, and relaxing.
There were interesting exhibits on people who were challenged by boating experiences.  Such as...
In 1875, Nathaniel Bishop set out to demonstrate that Eastern North America was navigable north to south in a small boat.  In a paper canoe weighing 58 lbs, he paddled and rowed from Quebec City to Cedar Keys, Florida. The picture below is a sketch of him and the alligators in Okefenokee Swamp on the Suwanee river. So glad we motored through the Everglades in our 42 ft. trawler!

The Voyage of the Kon Tiki:  Thor Heyerdahl and a crew of five set out to demonstrate that primitive people from Peru could have reached Polynesia in ancient times by floating an ancient log raft in prevailing winds and currents of the Pacific Ocean.  It took them 101 days to reach the Tuamotu Islands.

(see picture above) In 1975, artist Bas Jan Ader's goal, in "Search of the Miraculous", was to cross the Atlantic Ocean from Cape Cod to Holland, but was never heard from again.  His boat is the size of a dinghy- just over 12 ft.

In May 1982, Don Starkell and his son paddled to Belem, Brazil and the mouth of the Amazon from Winnipeg, Canada.  It took over two years to cover 12,000 miles, 13 countries, and 2 continents in 1 canoe.  His goal was to teach his son the strength of dedication and reward of self confidence.

Other interesting things we learned at the museum:
Shore lunches were popular in the Thousand Islands area.  After a morning of fishing, the fishing party would dine on their catch which had been prepared over an outdoor fire.
Rowing and paddling remained a favorite past-time on the river, even after the invention of the motor boat.
Muskellunge (some over 50 lbs) is the most prized catch and notable fish of the St Lawrence River.
Guy Lombardo, the famous band leader, loved to race fast boats.
Fishing and motor boat racing was not just a man's sport.  Most of the prominent ladies of the day were active in yacht and social clubs, but a few loved sitting behind the steering wheel of a motorboat.  Clover Boldt was a woman of sport and was known for racing speed boats.

La Duchesse, originally built for the Boldt family in 1903, is one of the boats on display and is continually being restored.  In the 1940's and 50's, La Duchess had extensive repairs and upgrades and was used as a summer home by the McNallys.  Her survival makes her special.  Our tour of this 106 ft. houseboat with a 26 ft. beam, was fascinating, and we enjoyed standing on her deck, peeking in the cabins, and learning about summer life during the Gilded Age.

The museum consists of multiple buildings and various exhibits and in-water fleet. 

This weekend is the big Antique Boat Race.
Clayton also has the Hand Weaving Museum and a restored Opera House.

We took a small ferry from Cape Vincent to Wolfe Island, the largest of the islands in Thousand Islands, where we cleared customs.  Marysville is the picturesque, little village on Wolfe Island where the line for the ferry to Kingston is several blocks long.  The Wolfe Island Bakery is a very popular stop for people, like us, who are waiting for the next ferry.  We figured that the wait for the ferry would be awhile as we watched people lock their cars and go eat at the nearby restaurant.

After 30 minutes or so, a large ferry appeared, and we were transported across the St. Lawrence River to Kingston, Ontario.

After checking into the hotel, we explored the Kingston Mills Locks Station which is the first set of locks at the south end of the Rideau Canal.  Planning the Rideau Canal began in response to the War of 1812 between Britain and the US.  We will be passing through these locks next summer when we motor in Dream Chaser through the Canadian portion of our journey.

Another view of the locks looking south.

Steve is demonstrating that the locks are manually operated through the Rideau Canal system.

The station and blockhouse was built in 1832 as a first line of defense, upstream from Ft. Henry, to guard against attack from the new republic to the south (that's us). The flight of locks, built to overcome the steep drop at Cataraqui Falls, and the small fort was built on the site of saw and grist mills for loyalist settlers.
Opened in 1832, the Rideau Canal, containing 47 locks, was financed by the British and built to provide a secure military over the 126 miles of unsettled country between Kingston and Ottawa.  Between 1826 and 1832, thousands of French Canadians and new immigrants from Ireland, Scotland and England built the locks.  They worked 14-16 hours a day, 6 days a week, and when unrest occurred, British soldiers were deployed along the canal.

What a beautiful sunset as we left the locks.

Wednesday, August 6, 2014 
At 8:45 am, we found the most popular breakfast diner for locals on Princess Street.  Peter's Place was just a crack in the wall eating spot, but the food was great and the place was packed!

Kingston, Ontario is located where the St. Lawrence River flows out of Lake Ontario and is one of the major sailing centers in North America.  During the War of 1812, Kingston was the base for the Lake Ontario division of the Great Lakes British naval fleet.  Kingston is one of the most historic cities in Canada many attractions.
One of the most popular spots for visitors in Kingston is Canada's Penitentiary Museum.  The prison museum provided a glimpse into the history of Canada's penitentiaries through pictures, early punishment equipment, and artifacts.  We chatted with a volunteer guide, a former penitentiary employee, who gave us insight into the workings of the institution, politics, and "insider" stories.

For lunch, we chose a popular spot, the PhnomPenh Restaurant on King St. downtown Kingston.  We enjoyed Seafood Noodle Soup and Seafood Curry (shrimp, bamboo shoots, crushed peanuts, basil, and coconut milk).  The locals are right...it was delicious!

After lunch, we were off to see Kingston's most famous attraction, Ft. Henry, which was built during the War of 1812 as a British stronghold and rebuilt in the 1830's.  On our way there, we passed the Royal Military College of Canada which is Canada's only military university.
Fort Henry was restored as a living museum of military life in the 1800's.  The "Guard" is made up of college and university students who wear uniforms similar to those from the 1860's, and they greet visitors and explain what military life was like for a British soldier in 1867.

At 3 pm, the daily parade began with an inspection of the troops and a performance of some of their marching drills.  We spent the afternoon touring the fort.

At 6:30 pm, we were seated in Chez Piggy, a popular eating spot famous in Kingston for 30 years.  After checking out the creative menu, we chose Cha Gio Salad which is Vietnamese Spring Rolls (chicken, pork, shrimp, and glass noodles) with corriander, mint, cucumber, bean sprouts, and peanuts.  Delicious!  We were told that Dan Akroyd frequents this spot, but apparently, he had other plans for tonight.

 We were so eager to taste this creation, the Cha Gio Salad, that the picture above shows only half the serving.

By 8 pm, we had returned to Fort Henry for the interesting 90 minute Sunset Ceremony where the Parade Ground was alive with the beat of marching heels, and the sounds of drums, fifes, bagpipes, rifles, mortars, and 32 pound cannons.  The Guard was clad in uniforms similar to those worn by the British troops in 1867, and they demonstrated marching drills, battle tactics, and military strategies from that period in time. The wall of the Parade Ground was illuminated with scenes from Canadian history.  The ceremony ended with the bang of the 32 pound cannons, taps as the Union Jack is lowered, and a finale of fireworks!

Thursday, August 7, 2014
By 8 am, we were driving through downtown Kingston, and our car was drawn to the PanChancho Bakery (a sister business of Chez Piggy) on Princess St.  It's wonderful!  People had recommend the two eggs over-easy on a croissant with bacon, chives, cheddar cheese, and chili sauce, but we opted for the big muffins!

This morning we drove up the north side of the St. Lawrence River to Upper Canada Village of Parks Canada.  With the formation of the St. Lawrence Seaway in the 1950's,  the landscape of the river area was altered and because of the flooding that resulted, many buildings were relocated to the village.

When we stepped into the village, we were transported back in time to explore the work and play of people living in a typical river village from the 1860's.  The Loyalists had arrived first to the St. Lawrence River area, and then groups of Irish and British came later.  We spent several hours wandering though the pioneer village enjoying the costumed actors and visiting many of the 55 buildings.  We followed the smell of freshly baked bread and arrived at the village bakery.  Loaves of delicious bread were lined up on the counter and the smell was overwhelming!

At noon, lunch was served at Willard's Hotel- oven roasted chicken and pan fried Basa Filet with vegetables and roasted rosemary potatoes.  Of course, everyone order some freshly baked bread!
We had a lovely afternoon in the village, and had the opportunity to chat with many of the "people".  The bakery, woolen factory, flour mill, saw mill, school, and cheese factory were fascinating, and gave a wonderful picture of life during the 1860's.  We chatted with the Tenant farmers while they ate lunch in their kitchen.  see below

We returned to the United States through the Alexandra Bay Port of Entry at Wellesley Island.
So good to be back on Dream Chaser!

By 6 pm, we were seated in our favorite Korean restaurant, Chorong, in Syracuse, NY.  We enjoyed Bibimbob (shrimp, vegetables, a soft fried egg, and rice in a hot stoneware pot) and Kim Bob (California rolls with wasabi sauce) while we chatted with our favorite waitress, Chorong.

No more docking experiences until June 2015.  Dream Chaser is going into covered storage.

Oswego Canal to Thousand Islands

Oswego Canal to Thousand Islands
The airport taxi has returned us to Dream Chaser which has been docked in the Syracuse, New York area for almost two weeks.  Our time away had been filled with our daughter’s birthday, numerous meals with friends and family, a wedding shower, a wedding, a quick trip to the cabin, and quality time with our new grandson.
This section of our trip will take us up the Oswego Canal to Lake Ontario and across to the mouth of the St. Lawrence River and the Thousand Islands.  The French named this area the Thousand Islands, and the islands were named for British admirals from the War of 1812, ships and gunboats, captains of the Lake Fleet ships, and from local owners of the islands.
Construction on the Oswego Canal was begun about the time the Erie Canal was completed in 1825 and was ready for use in 1828.  In 1917, the Oswego was improved along with the Erie.  Today, the canal is 24 miles long, has 7 locks (numbered 1-8 with no #4), a drop of 118 ft. , and 8 hydro plants.  The Oswego Canal begins at the junction of the Oneida and Seneca Rivers that form the Oswego River. This Three Rivers area was an important meeting place since the early 1700’s for Native Americans and later for War of 1812 forces rendezvousing prior to attacks.
Monday, July 28, 2014
As we woke from a great night’s sleep, rain was splattering against the windows.  Not to miss an opportunity, Captain Steve, had a complete boat “scrub down” on the docket for this morning.  The marina was quiet, and our morning was filled with organizing, cleaning, baking, provisioning, and running errands. 

At 3 pm, our friends Larry Otten and Jerri who were in Syracuse to attend a wedding, joined us at the marina.  After a tour of Dream Chaser, we took a relaxing cruise west down the Erie Canal to give them a taste of our journey.

A light rain continued to fall as we passed through Lock 23, motored by some beautiful houses, and just marveled at the beauty of the area.  Cheese, crackers, strawberries, and drinks were enjoyed as we caught up on life’s happenings.  A perfect way to spend an afternoon!

About 6 pm, we docked Dream Chaser, hopped in the car, and headed to a Korean restaurant, Chorong House, in Syracuse.  Two weeks earlier when we stopped for lunch, it was closed because the owners had flown to Korea for a wedding, but now it was open. Established 15 years ago, the small Fayette St. Chorong, is highly rated as an authentic Korean Restaurant. 
Our waitress, Chorong, the owner’s daughter (in her late twenties) was warm, welcoming, and took wonderful care of us.  She received the name Chorong, because she had such “bright eyes” when when she was born.  Her parents wanted the restaurant to be a bright happy place, so they named it after her.  Chorong walked us through the many tempting options on the menu, and we heartily agreed with her suggestions. 
We started dinner with an appetizer, Kim Bob which is a Korean style California Roll.  This was followed by the main dishes.  Bibimbob contains vegetables, beef, a soft-fried egg, and rice served in a hot stoneware pot.  The egg is broken, the mixture is stirred, and then served. Yum!  The second main dish was Kal Bi which is beef short-ribs with a special garlic and soy sauce based sauce.  Our third choice was Chicken Bul Goh-Ki which is thinly sliced boneless chicken thigh marinated in sweet garlic soy sauce.  Our fourth dish was Jab-Che-Bob which has stir fried clear and glassy chew noodles (sweet potato) with mixed vegetables and beef. And lots of white rice!  Fabulous flavors, wonderful variety, and plenty for all.  A great place and a new experience! 
After a wonderful dinner and great conversation, we bid our friends, Larry and Jerri, good-bye.

At 10:30 pm, we arrived at the Syracuse International Airport to pickup our next passenger who will be joining us on our Great Loop adventure.  Jean Luc Panetta, a former neighbor and good friend from Minneapolis, will be experiencing living on Dream Chaser for the next five days.  Our families spent many years together with great times and many memories, so has been fun getting updates.  We are excited about having him join us for this stretch of our journey.
By midnight, we headed to bed in order to be ready for an early departure in the morning.

Tuesday, July 29, 2014
At 6 am, Dream Chaser pulled out of her slip and headed west towards the Oswego Canal which will take us to Lake Ontario.  Our schedule and destination will be determined by today’s weather and wave reports on Lake Ontario.  It is a beautiful day, although a bit cool, and we are ready for adventure!

 Great painting on a wall along the canal in Oswego.

Great to have Jean Luc aboard to help lock Dream Chaser through the Oswego Canal.

We are in Oswego and the last lock before Lake Ontario.  We have been receiving conflicting reports as to the condition of the lake with wave height and roughness.  The decision has to be made!....GO!

This guy was on a paddle board, with no life jacket, and paddling towards the opening to the lake!

We are again heading into the BIG water...this time Lake Ontario. 

After leaving Brewerton, Dream Chaser motored for ten hours which, first, brought us through the Oswego Canal motoring through eight locks with varying lifts from 10.2 to 27 ft.and then across Lake Ontario to Cape Vincent, NY.  Cape Vincent is where the St. Lawrence River and Lake Ontario meet. 
Crossing Lake Ontario was a bit rough, so we were all happy to find a calm dockage at Anchor Marina in Cape Vincent.  After Dream Chaser was tied securely and no longer rockin’ and rollin’ from the waves, we had a wonderful chicken salad for dinner.  We were all hungry as we had refrained from eating during our crossing due to possible upset stomachs.

An inviting front porch on one of the many quaint homes in Cape Vincent.

 Mary appreciated the beautiful flower boxes and gardens.

Following dinner, we took a stroll through the quaint little town.  First explored in the 17th century by French explorers, modern settlement followed in 1801.  During the War of 1812, Cape Vincent was an armed camp to oppose British forces.  The charming Tibbetts Point Lighthouse, erected in 1827, is a popular spot to visit, but the ice cream shop downtown seemed more popular tonight judging from the long line of customers at the walk-up window.
The long crossing today has taken it’s toll, and we are all ready for an early bedtime.
 
Wednesday, July 30, 2014
We woke, again, to rain dancing off the windows and felt the waves from the fishing boats as they motored by destined for the deeper waters.  The rain let up, but the sky is grey with heavy back clouds threatening to give a repeat performance before long.
The smell of coffee filled the salon and a healthy breakfast of oatmeal with fresh blueberries, eggs, and English muffins are on the breakfast menu.  We are all hungry this morning due to our self imposed mini fast yesterday during our crossing of Lake Ontario.
By 10:15 am, the engines are purring, the lines are untied, and Dream Chaser pulled from the dock at Anchor Marina as she began her journey across the mouth of the St. Lawrence River with Canada in sight.  We plan to spend the next three days exploring the quaint areas of Thousand Islands.  The sun has broken out periodically creating sparkling diamonds on the water.
In 1822, a boundary line and division of the Island Region was agreed upon by the US and Canada. The line runs in a zigzag course to avoid crossing any of the islands and having any island shared by both countries.  We will be crossing into Canada, today, and will need to declare our entrance.
We have been motoring east on the St. Lawrence River and on the north side of the islands.

 At noon, we arrived at Gananoque Harbor, but due to a line up of boats, Dream Chaser had to float around until it was our turn to meet with Canadian customs.  At 1 pm, we received the signal to dock, and Captain Steve met with officials to make our entrance into Canada legal and official.  After just a few minutes, we were cleared for entry, and the marina found a boat slip which was available for tonight’s dockage. Yippee!

At first glance, we thought this was a man and his wife (with a bushy hair-do).  On closer examination, it was a very furry man's best friend.  Dinghies are great for outings in this Thousand Islands area.  With more time, we could have anchored and explored many of the islands and little channels.

 With Dream Chaser secured at the dock, we headed to the historic town of Gananoque.
Gananoque was first recorded by French explorers in the 1600’s and is a native name. First populated by Loyalist families who came from Connecticut in about 1792, it became an important settlement.  By the early 1800’s, mills and factories were built, and boatbuilding (i.e. St. Lawrence skiff rowing boats) added to the economy of the region.  Today, the area is a booming tourist destination with beautiful scenery and quaint towns.
We took time to visit the Arthur Child Heritage Museum which houses a gallery of regional art and exhibits depicting the heritage of the area. 
A walk through town brought us past the clock tower, old churches, many historic buildings, and early homes with beautiful flowers.

We strolled through Confederation Park, a municipal park with a pretty fountain and sculpture garden. 

We chose the Socialist Pig for dinner.  It’s a funky, local coffee shop/restaurant on King St. in historic downtown. 
About 9 pm which is boater’s midnight, darkness fell, the marina became quiet, and the waves calmed.  Great sleeping!

Thursday, July 31, 2014
Rain and storms moved over the area until about 9:30 am this morning.  It was a restful morning listening to the rainfall, engaging in pleasant conversation, and then taking hot showers at the marina office.  With breakfast but a memory, Dream Chaser was on the move...heading up the St. Lawrence River to Ivy Lea, Ontario.
We’ve had some great conversations, and it’s been a great opportunity to catch up on all the happenings in our lives and those of our children.  Jean Luc and his family had lived a few doors down from us when our children were young, moved to France for about 12 years, and then returned to the states about five years ago.  For many years, they operated a French food booth at the Renaissance Festival and sold delicious spinach pies and mouthwatering scones.  Perhaps, you stopped at their booth and enjoyed these delightful items?  Linda, his sweet wife and our dear friend, passed away suddenly a year ago last June.  It was a great loss, and we miss her!

We had contemplated stopping at Ivy Lea, but decided to continue to Singer Island another hour or so east.  Today, we will experience the “million dollar” cruise!  Leaving Gananoque, we passed by the Admiralty Islands, through the Navy Islands, through the  Thousand Islands Bridge area, and Grenadier Island.

 There are many large tour boats in this area giving tourists a good look at the millionaires' homes.

We joined several tour boats as our path took us through “Millionaires Row”, a stretch of the St. Lawrence River which contains beautiful multimillion dollar homes.

This is just one of many beautiful homes along this stretch of the St. Lawrence River.  There is also a private marina which is not in the picture.

What would you find on a teeny tiny island...a teeny tiny house!

With temps in the 70‘s and sun peeking through the clouds, it was a perfect day for cruising and picture taking.  As we cruised, we enjoyed hot homemade vegetable/bean soup and crackers on the upper deck.

This private island was so perfect that it looked like it was out of a storybook.

Along the way... high on a granite bluff, we spotted St. Lawrence, a monument to Lawrence a third century martyr and after whom the St. Lawrence River is named.

Captain Steve fought a strong current and stiff wind when we docked Dream Chaser on the north side of Dark Island which is home to Singer Castle.

Our first destination was Singer Castle on Dark Island in Chippewa Bay.  Frederick Bourne of NYC purchased the 7 acre island in 1902 for $5,000.  Mr. Bourne was a self-made millionaire, entrepreneur, yachtsman, and president of the Singer Sewing Machine Company from 1889-1905. He became one of the wealthiest men in the country.
He commissioned Ernest Flagg, a New York architect, to design this castle like hunting lodge where Bourne and his family would spend a few weeks during the summer and fall enjoying the river.  Flagg received his inspiration for the design from the novel “Woodstock” by Sir Walter Scott.  The hunting lodge originally called “The Towers” is five stories high, had 28 rooms, and was made from granite quarried from a nearby island.  There are towers, turrets, secret passageways, a dungeon, and an underground tunnel.

 The secret panel is to the left of the fireplace and it leads to a secret passageways.

Secret passageways wound throughout the castle.

Frederick and Emma had nine children and thirty servants.  Frederick passed away in 1919, and his daughter Marjorie bought out the siblings.  She and her husband owned the property until the 1950’s using it as a summer home.  The castle has been continuously occupied since 1905 and still contains original furnishings and decor.

Our tour guide, Alexa, walked us through the huge home giving explanations and answering all our questions.  There are hidden passageways, secret doors, secret viewing panes in the dining room and living room.  The servants could peeked to see if anything was needed in the dining room and fill glasses, etc. before they were asked.  There is a dungeon, but it was not part of the public tour.
Antique Singer sewing machines are placed throughout the home.  Pullman car seats were placed by the window alcoves in the drawing room.
If you desire an experience of being King and Queen of a Castle, Singer Castle is available for rent and has all the conveniences and luxuries in the Royal Suite.  You can enjoy a Canadian sunset in the evening and awaken to an American sunrise!
By 4 pm, our tour of the castle was completed, and Dream Chaser was motoring west taking the south shore route of the St. Lawrence River.  Tour boats are really popular in this section of the river.  It is easy to see why this is called the Thousand Islands as there are islands of all sizes along this section of the river and several have little houses perched in the middle.

 

About 5 pm, we anchored with three other boaters at Batterman’s Point.  There were cute tiny homes perched on their own tiny island of rock in this bay.  Below was one of our favorites.

Our entertainment before dinner was this guy (shown below) doing dives, somersaults, and soaring up into the air.  The flyboard propels him through the air and water with jet-propulsioned boots designed by Frank Zapata from Marseille.  A jet ski over 100 hp is used for power. This guy was EXTREMELY good!

At 6 pm, we shared a tasty dinner of pasta with meatballs in vodka sauce, grilled asparagus, and zucchini while we enjoyed the beauty of the bay. Perfect!
The evening was filled with competitive games of Rummicub.  Great fun!

Friday, August 1, 2014
It was a quiet restful night anchored in Batterman’s Point.  After our morning coffee and a breakfast of oatmeal with blueberries, eggs, and toasted muffins, we pulled anchor about 9 am and motored to our destination this morning... Boldt Castle.

George Boldt, who built Boldt Castle, came to America in 1864 from Prussia.  At 13 years of age, he was nearly penniless when he found a job as a dishwasher in a New York hotel.  Later he became a busboy and worked his way up to managing a hotel.  Hot tips on stocks and his talent for investment put him in the money and it wasn’t long before the Waldorf Astoria on Fifth Avenue in NYC was his flagship hotel. In 1904, his commission from operating the hotel was a million dollars.  George was 24 years old when he married Louise Kehrer (18 years old) and the daughter of one of his business associates.  Louise and George were drawn to the Thousand Islands area spent many summers here.  George is reported to have made Thousand Island Dressing popular after it was created by one of his chefs at the Waldorf Hotel.
Boldt was one of the late 19th century self-made millionaires who shaped the resort atmosphere in the Thousand Islands.  These men like Pullman, Browning, Laughlin, and Holden built grand summer homes and bought private yachts.

The picture of Heart Island  (above) and Heart Castle (below) was taken from the Boldt Castle website. 

This was our view from Dream Chaser of Heart Castle as we approached their docks.

 Dream Chaser docked on Heart Island and the Boldt Yacht House can be seen in the background.

At 9:30 am, Dream Chaser slipped up to the docks on the NW side of Heart Island, and we met with customs officials for entry back into the US.  After immigration clearance, we walked down the brick path admiring the flowers and beautiful landscaping on the island. 

We strolled along the stone walled pathways and gardens, past the gazebo to the large arch resembling the Arch of Triumph which is capped with stone male deer called harts.  The arch would have been the grand formal entrance for the guests arriving by launch. Harts and clovers are found throughout Heart Island.  Clovers are a symbol of good luck.   The Clover Club of Philadelphia was the ticket to Boldt’s rocket to success.  They, also, named their daughter, Louise Clover.

 One of the stained glass panels from Heart Castle.

In 1895, Boldt purchased Heart Island for $20,000 and construction on his summer home began.  He had plans to build a full size Rhineland castle on Heart Island. Boldt Castle and grounds were designed to be a gift and monument of George Boldt’s love for his wife, Louise. The island was blasted into the shape of a heart, and the Swan Pond and boat lagoon were added to complete the shape.

We stopped to tour the first project:  the massive granite 90 ft. tall “Alster Tower” (commonly referred to as the “children’s playhouse”) designed from a castle on the Rhine in Germany. Created for recreational purposes and housing guests, the first floor was for musicals, plays, and dancing and the basement provided a two lane bowling alley.  Upper floors contained a billiard room, library, cafe, kitchen, and guest rooms.  At the base of the tower was a Roman swimming pool and boat docking area.  The Boldt family occupied this building during the 4 year construction of the castle house.

We continued up the walkway and entered the main entrance of the castle. The new castle was designed with the major view and entrances from the main river channel on the SW side and the Village of Alexandria, NY.  Expense was a minor consideration in the construction of the buildings and for four years 300 men worked 10 hours a day for $1.50.  The massive stone castle was six stories high, had 127 rooms, an elevator, carved Italian marble mantelpieces, draperies, tapestries, mosaics, chandeliers, paintings, and sculptures purchased in Europe.  There was a drawbridge, tunnels, a powerhouse, indoor swimming pool, and Italian gardens. The home has been beautifully restored and, in its day, was one of the largest private homes in America. Some of the furnishings and antiques during the restoration came from Boldt’s great grandchildren.

 Imagine the luxurious balls and parties they would have hosted.

 The stained glass dome in the ceiling above the grand staircase.

George was planning to present the castle to Louise on Valentine’s Day, but Louise died of heart failure in NYC in January 1904 at age 45. George immediately stopped work on the castle, let go the 300 workers, and let the castle fall into disrepair and ruin, never having lived in it.
As we walked through the castle, it was easy to imagine how luxurious this place would have become and the parties that would have taken place had Louise not died so early.

Boldt immersed himself in work and continued to summer with his children (George Jr. and Louise Clover) and grandchildren in the Thousand Islands area residing at the farm cottage on the Boldt Farm on Wellesly Island.  He never returned to Heart Castle.
After George Boldt died in 1916 at 65 years old, the Heart Castle property along with other properties were sold to Edward Noble.  Heart Castle was vacant and neglected for 73 years left to the mercy  of the wind, rain, ice, snow, and vandals.  In 1977, the Thousand Islands Bridge Authority acquired the property and is restoring ($34 million), preserving, and maintaining the structures and the property. 

After experiencing Boldt Castle, we motored from Heart Island to the Boldt Yacht House on Fern Island.  The Boldt family’s yachts and enormous houseboat were housed in this 64 ft. building in slips 128 ft. long.  Designed with towers. spires, and steep-pitched gables, the buildings towering bay doors provided access to the river.  It is reported that Boldt owned over 60 boats and many were St. Lawrence skiffs.  Fishing was popular and these boats were the best way to access the best fishing areas.  Today, we viewed the collection of antique wooden boats on display, some from the original Boldt fleet. 
Louise Boldt had a private houseboat called “La Duchess” which cost $175,000 to build in 1903.  This boat was 105 t. long and 20 ft. wide, had two decks, 10 bedrooms, five baths, a living room, dining room, kitchen, fireplaces, dancing deck, salon, stained glass, skylight, Pullman beds, steam heat, and a Steinway piano.  This boat is on display at the Antique Boat Museum in Clayton, NY.

Needing to continue our journey, we motored east on the St. Lawrence River south of Wellesley Island and passed under the International Bridge. In Clayton, NY, Jean Luc picked up a rental car for his drive back to the Syracuse airport and his flight home on Saturday.  The antique boat show is in Clayton, this week, and there will be 5,000 extra people in town.
We read that Thousand Islands has always been speedboat crazy.  Not only do you see them in museums, but they are parked along the docks and cruising on the river.  We noticed an amazing amount of boat activity on the St. Lawrence River today, including many of these antique boats which are whizzing up and down the river.  Fun to see!

 We have way too many pictures of antique boats to post, so here are just a few.

 The antique boats fit right in with the speed boats on the St. Lawrence River.

While Dream Chaser was docked in Clayton, five girls were showing off their water jumping skills (off the dock).  After their leap, they would giggle and run over and take a look at their picture on Mary’s camera.  What fun!

By 5 pm, Dream Chaser had returned to Cape Vincent and slipped up to the dock at Anchor Marina.  Shortly after tying lines, we heard church bells ring out playing several old hymns-so cool!  At our dockage, we have a great view of the St. Lawrence River’s shipping lane where we can watch the big freighters motor by bound east or west.

About 6 pm, Jean Luc arrived with the rental car.  Tonight's dinner was aboard (turkey burgers, "White Hot" dogs, rice, beans, and salad), and no Rummikub tonight.  Instead, we visited our neighboring boaters, Raoul and Karen, on their 44 ft. Beneteau sailboat, Issandra, and shared stories until after 10 pm.  They are from Montreal and had numerous traveling and boating stories to share.  Great time!
It was an interesting sunset over the St Lawrence River.

 Saturday, August 2, 2014

This morning, it was still and magical as the fog hovered over the St. Lawrence River like a blanket.  Before long, the sun came up and gently cut through the haze.

This morning, our crew mate, Jean Luc, returns to Minnesota via Syracuse.  It has been a great time, and we have packed a lot into a few days.  With coffee and breakfast completed, hugs and adieus were exchanged. Steve was in charge of the shuttle to the airport, and Mary completed morning chores and then explored the quaint little town of Cape Vincent.  The farmer’s market was set up in the town square (yeah! fresh, organic eggs!), the town shops were open, and the Breakwater Art Gallery was welcoming visitors. 

At 2 pm, we bid adieu to our Canadian friends, Rauol and Karen, stored the dock lines, and slipped back into the St Lawrence River heading west to our destination of Sackets Harbor twenty five miles away.

Lots of boat activity on Lake Ontario, today.  The wind is stiff and the water is gorgeous!

At 5 pm, we tied up at Madison Barracks Marina at Sackets Harbor.  
Sackets Harbor became the center of American navel and military activity for the upper St. Lawrence Valley and Lake Ontario following the outbreak of the War of 1812 between the US and Great Britain.  A large feet was constructed at the shipyards.  In the following years, this area grew to become an important shipping and boat building center. 
Near the marina, two old brick buildings built during war time (a theater and an old army hospital) are being restored.  The hotel and sports center (previously barracks) are completed and already in use. 

Once the paperwork was completed, we took the twenty minute walk to town.  As we started out, we passed a marker identifying the area overlooking the lake as Fort Pike, a fort built for defense during the War of 1812.  Next, we passed by a one acre grassy area which was marked as a burial grounds of men who died from 1812-1818 during the War of 1812.

We continued on through town,  to the end of Main St. where the Sackets Harbor Battlefield overlooks Lake Ontario.  The Annual War of 1812 Living History Weekend started Friday and will continue tomorrow.  Re-enactors from the US and Canada will gather at the Battlefield for tactical weapons display Sunday morning.  The museums were closed, so we plan to return tomorrow.

On the dock where Dream Chaser was tied, equipment for a paddle board business was stored.  So, people rented paddle boards from our dock.  They were having a great time!

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Beautiful night at the marina.