Oswego Canal to Thousand Islands
The airport taxi has returned us to Dream Chaser which has been docked in the Syracuse, New York area for almost two weeks. Our time away had been filled with our daughter’s birthday, numerous meals with friends and family, a wedding shower, a wedding, a quick trip to the cabin, and quality time with our new grandson.
This section of our trip will take us up the Oswego Canal to Lake Ontario and across to the mouth of the St. Lawrence River and the Thousand Islands. The French named this area the Thousand Islands, and the islands were named for British admirals from the War of 1812, ships and gunboats, captains of the Lake Fleet ships, and from local owners of the islands.
Construction on the Oswego Canal was begun about the time the Erie Canal was completed in 1825 and was ready for use in 1828. In 1917, the Oswego was improved along with the Erie. Today, the canal is 24 miles long, has 7 locks (numbered 1-8 with no #4), a drop of 118 ft. , and 8 hydro plants. The Oswego Canal begins at the junction of the Oneida and Seneca Rivers that form the Oswego River. This Three Rivers area was an important meeting place since the early 1700’s for Native Americans and later for War of 1812 forces rendezvousing prior to attacks.
Monday, July 28, 2014
As we woke from a great night’s sleep, rain was splattering against the windows. Not to miss an opportunity, Captain Steve, had a complete boat “scrub down” on the docket for this morning. The marina was quiet, and our morning was filled with organizing, cleaning, baking, provisioning, and running errands.
About 6 pm, we docked Dream Chaser, hopped in the car, and headed to a Korean restaurant, Chorong House, in Syracuse. Two weeks earlier when we stopped for lunch, it was closed because the owners had flown to Korea for a wedding, but now it was open. Established 15 years ago, the small Fayette St. Chorong, is highly rated as an authentic Korean Restaurant.
Our waitress, Chorong, the owner’s daughter (in her late twenties) was warm, welcoming, and took wonderful care of us. She received the name Chorong, because she had such “bright eyes” when when she was born. Her parents wanted the restaurant to be a bright happy place, so they named it after her. Chorong walked us through the many tempting options on the menu, and we heartily agreed with her suggestions.
We started dinner with an appetizer, Kim Bob which is a Korean style California Roll. This was followed by the main dishes. Bibimbob contains vegetables, beef, a soft-fried egg, and rice served in a hot stoneware pot. The egg is broken, the mixture is stirred, and then served. Yum! The second main dish was Kal Bi which is beef short-ribs with a special garlic and soy sauce based sauce. Our third choice was Chicken Bul Goh-Ki which is thinly sliced boneless chicken thigh marinated in sweet garlic soy sauce. Our fourth dish was Jab-Che-Bob which has stir fried clear and glassy chew noodles (sweet potato) with mixed vegetables and beef. And lots of white rice! Fabulous flavors, wonderful variety, and plenty for all. A great place and a new experience!
After a wonderful dinner and great conversation, we bid our friends, Larry and Jerri, good-bye.
At 10:30 pm, we arrived at the Syracuse International Airport to pickup our next passenger who will be joining us on our Great Loop adventure. Jean Luc Panetta, a former neighbor and good friend from Minneapolis, will be experiencing living on Dream Chaser for the next five days. Our families spent many years together with great times and many memories, so has been fun getting updates. We are excited about having him join us for this stretch of our journey.
By midnight, we headed to bed in order to be ready for an early departure in the morning.
Tuesday, July 29, 2014
At 6 am, Dream Chaser pulled out of her slip and headed west towards the Oswego Canal which will take us to Lake Ontario. Our schedule and destination will be determined by today’s weather and wave reports on Lake Ontario. It is a beautiful day, although a bit cool, and we are ready for adventure!
We are in Oswego and the last lock before Lake Ontario. We have been receiving conflicting reports as to the condition of the lake with wave height and roughness. The decision has to be made!....GO! 
After leaving Brewerton, Dream Chaser motored for ten hours which, first, brought us through the Oswego Canal motoring through eight locks with varying lifts from 10.2 to 27 ft.and then across Lake Ontario to Cape Vincent, NY. Cape Vincent is where the St. Lawrence River and Lake Ontario meet.
Crossing Lake Ontario was a bit rough, so we were all happy to find a calm dockage at Anchor Marina in Cape Vincent. After Dream Chaser was tied securely and no longer rockin’ and rollin’ from the waves, we had a wonderful chicken salad for dinner. We were all hungry as we had refrained from eating during our crossing due to possible upset stomachs.
Following dinner, we took a stroll through the quaint little town. First explored in the 17th century by French explorers, modern settlement followed in 1801. During the War of 1812, Cape Vincent was an armed camp to oppose British forces. The charming Tibbetts Point Lighthouse, erected in 1827, is a popular spot to visit, but the ice cream shop downtown seemed more popular tonight judging from the long line of customers at the walk-up window.
The long crossing today has taken it’s toll, and we are all ready for an early bedtime.
Wednesday, July 30, 2014
We woke, again, to rain dancing off the windows and felt the waves from the fishing boats as they motored by destined for the deeper waters. The rain let up, but the sky is grey with heavy back clouds threatening to give a repeat performance before long.
The smell of coffee filled the salon and a healthy breakfast of oatmeal with fresh blueberries, eggs, and English muffins are on the breakfast menu. We are all hungry this morning due to our self imposed mini fast yesterday during our crossing of Lake Ontario.
By 10:15 am, the engines are purring, the lines are untied, and Dream Chaser pulled from the dock at Anchor Marina as she began her journey across the mouth of the St. Lawrence River with Canada in sight. We plan to spend the next three days exploring the quaint areas of Thousand Islands. The sun has broken out periodically creating sparkling diamonds on the water.
In 1822, a boundary line and division of the Island Region was agreed upon by the US and Canada. The line runs in a zigzag course to avoid crossing any of the islands and having any island shared by both countries. We will be crossing into Canada, today, and will need to declare our entrance.
We have been motoring east on the St. Lawrence River and on the north side of the islands.
Gananoque was first recorded by French explorers in the 1600’s and is a native name. First populated by Loyalist families who came from Connecticut in about 1792, it became an important settlement. By the early 1800’s, mills and factories were built, and boatbuilding (i.e. St. Lawrence skiff rowing boats) added to the economy of the region. Today, the area is a booming tourist destination with beautiful scenery and quaint towns.
We took time to visit the Arthur Child Heritage Museum which houses a gallery of regional art and exhibits depicting the heritage of the area.
A walk through town brought us past the clock tower, old churches, many historic buildings, and early homes with beautiful flowers.
About 9 pm which is boater’s midnight, darkness fell, the marina became quiet, and the waves calmed. Great sleeping!
Thursday, July 31, 2014
Rain and storms moved over the area until about 9:30 am this morning. It was a restful morning listening to the rainfall, engaging in pleasant conversation, and then taking hot showers at the marina office. With breakfast but a memory, Dream Chaser was on the move...heading up the St. Lawrence River to Ivy Lea, Ontario.
We’ve had some great conversations, and it’s been a great opportunity to catch up on all the happenings in our lives and those of our children. Jean Luc and his family had lived a few doors down from us when our children were young, moved to France for about 12 years, and then returned to the states about five years ago. For many years, they operated a French food booth at the Renaissance Festival and sold delicious spinach pies and mouthwatering scones. Perhaps, you stopped at their booth and enjoyed these delightful items? Linda, his sweet wife and our dear friend, passed away suddenly a year ago last June. It was a great loss, and we miss her!
We had contemplated stopping at Ivy Lea, but decided to continue to Singer Island another hour or so east. Today, we will experience the “million dollar” cruise! Leaving Gananoque, we passed by the Admiralty Islands, through the Navy Islands, through the Thousand Islands Bridge area, and Grenadier Island.
We joined several tour boats as our path took us through “Millionaires Row”, a stretch of the St. Lawrence River which contains beautiful multimillion dollar homes.
With temps in the 70‘s and sun peeking through the clouds, it was a perfect day for cruising and picture taking. As we cruised, we enjoyed hot homemade vegetable/bean soup and crackers on the upper deck.
Along the way... high on a granite bluff, we spotted St. Lawrence, a monument to Lawrence a third century martyr and after whom the St. Lawrence River is named.
He commissioned Ernest Flagg, a New York architect, to design this castle like hunting lodge where Bourne and his family would spend a few weeks during the summer and fall enjoying the river. Flagg received his inspiration for the design from the novel “Woodstock” by Sir Walter Scott. The hunting lodge originally called “The Towers” is five stories high, had 28 rooms, and was made from granite quarried from a nearby island. There are towers, turrets, secret passageways, a dungeon, and an underground tunnel.
Frederick and Emma had nine children and thirty servants. Frederick passed away in 1919, and his daughter Marjorie bought out the siblings. She and her husband owned the property until the 1950’s using it as a summer home. The castle has been continuously occupied since 1905 and still contains original furnishings and decor.
Antique Singer sewing machines are placed throughout the home. Pullman car seats were placed by the window alcoves in the drawing room.
If you desire an experience of being King and Queen of a Castle, Singer Castle is available for rent and has all the conveniences and luxuries in the Royal Suite. You can enjoy a Canadian sunset in the evening and awaken to an American sunrise!
By 4 pm, our tour of the castle was completed, and Dream Chaser was motoring west taking the south shore route of the St. Lawrence River. Tour boats are really popular in this section of the river. It is easy to see why this is called the Thousand Islands as there are islands of all sizes along this section of the river and several have little houses perched in the middle.
About 5 pm, we anchored with three other boaters at Batterman’s Point. There were cute tiny homes perched on their own tiny island of rock in this bay. Below was one of our favorites.
Our entertainment before dinner was this guy (shown below) doing dives, somersaults, and soaring up into the air. The flyboard propels him through the air and water with jet-propulsioned boots designed by Frank Zapata from Marseille. A jet ski over 100 hp is used for power. This guy was EXTREMELY good!
At 6 pm, we shared a tasty dinner of pasta with meatballs in vodka sauce, grilled asparagus, and zucchini while we enjoyed the beauty of the bay. Perfect!
The evening was filled with competitive games of Rummicub. Great fun!
Friday, August 1, 2014
It was a quiet restful night anchored in Batterman’s Point. After our morning coffee and a breakfast of oatmeal with blueberries, eggs, and toasted muffins, we pulled anchor about 9 am and motored to our destination this morning... Boldt Castle.
George Boldt, who built Boldt Castle, came to America in 1864 from Prussia. At 13 years of age, he was nearly penniless when he found a job as a dishwasher in a New York hotel. Later he became a busboy and worked his way up to managing a hotel. Hot tips on stocks and his talent for investment put him in the money and it wasn’t long before the Waldorf Astoria on Fifth Avenue in NYC was his flagship hotel. In 1904, his commission from operating the hotel was a million dollars. George was 24 years old when he married Louise Kehrer (18 years old) and the daughter of one of his business associates. Louise and George were drawn to the Thousand Islands area spent many summers here. George is reported to have made Thousand Island Dressing popular after it was created by one of his chefs at the Waldorf Hotel.
Boldt was one of the late 19th century self-made millionaires who shaped the resort atmosphere in the Thousand Islands. These men like Pullman, Browning, Laughlin, and Holden built grand summer homes and bought private yachts.
The picture of Heart Island (above) and Heart Castle (below) was taken from the Boldt Castle website.
At 9:30 am, Dream Chaser slipped up to the docks on the NW side of Heart Island, and we met with customs officials for entry back into the US. After immigration clearance, we walked down the brick path admiring the flowers and beautiful landscaping on the island.
In 1895, Boldt purchased Heart Island for $20,000 and construction on his summer home began. He had plans to build a full size Rhineland castle on Heart Island. Boldt Castle and grounds were designed to be a gift and monument of George Boldt’s love for his wife, Louise. The island was blasted into the shape of a heart, and the Swan Pond and boat lagoon were added to complete the shape.
We continued up the walkway and entered the main entrance of the castle. The new castle was designed with the major view and entrances from the main river channel on the SW side and the Village of Alexandria, NY. Expense was a minor consideration in the construction of the buildings and for four years 300 men worked 10 hours a day for $1.50. The massive stone castle was six stories high, had 127 rooms, an elevator, carved Italian marble mantelpieces, draperies, tapestries, mosaics, chandeliers, paintings, and sculptures purchased in Europe. There was a drawbridge, tunnels, a powerhouse, indoor swimming pool, and Italian gardens. The home has been beautifully restored and, in its day, was one of the largest private homes in America. Some of the furnishings and antiques during the restoration came from Boldt’s great grandchildren.
George was planning to present the castle to Louise on Valentine’s Day, but Louise died of heart failure in NYC in January 1904 at age 45. George immediately stopped work on the castle, let go the 300 workers, and let the castle fall into disrepair and ruin, never having lived in it.
As we walked through the castle, it was easy to imagine how luxurious this place would have become and the parties that would have taken place had Louise not died so early.
Boldt immersed himself in work and continued to summer with his children (George Jr. and Louise Clover) and grandchildren in the Thousand Islands area residing at the farm cottage on the Boldt Farm on Wellesly Island. He never returned to Heart Castle.
After George Boldt died in 1916 at 65 years old, the Heart Castle property along with other properties were sold to Edward Noble. Heart Castle was vacant and neglected for 73 years left to the mercy of the wind, rain, ice, snow, and vandals. In 1977, the Thousand Islands Bridge Authority acquired the property and is restoring ($34 million), preserving, and maintaining the structures and the property.
After experiencing Boldt Castle, we motored from Heart Island to the Boldt Yacht House on Fern Island. The Boldt family’s yachts and enormous houseboat were housed in this 64 ft. building in slips 128 ft. long. Designed with towers. spires, and steep-pitched gables, the buildings towering bay doors provided access to the river. It is reported that Boldt owned over 60 boats and many were St. Lawrence skiffs. Fishing was popular and these boats were the best way to access the best fishing areas. Today, we viewed the collection of antique wooden boats on display, some from the original Boldt fleet.
Louise Boldt had a private houseboat called “La Duchess” which cost $175,000 to build in 1903. This boat was 105 t. long and 20 ft. wide, had two decks, 10 bedrooms, five baths, a living room, dining room, kitchen, fireplaces, dancing deck, salon, stained glass, skylight, Pullman beds, steam heat, and a Steinway piano. This boat is on display at the Antique Boat Museum in Clayton, NY.
Needing to continue our journey, we motored east on the St. Lawrence River south of Wellesley Island and passed under the International Bridge. In Clayton, NY, Jean Luc picked up a rental car for his drive back to the Syracuse airport and his flight home on Saturday. The antique boat show is in Clayton, this week, and there will be 5,000 extra people in town.
We read that Thousand Islands has always been speedboat crazy. Not only do you see them in museums, but they are parked along the docks and cruising on the river. We noticed an amazing amount of boat activity on the St. Lawrence River today, including many of these antique boats which are whizzing up and down the river. Fun to see!
While Dream Chaser was docked in Clayton, five girls were showing off their water jumping skills (off the dock). After their leap, they would giggle and run over and take a look at their picture on Mary’s camera. What fun!
By 5 pm, Dream Chaser had returned to Cape Vincent and slipped up to the dock at Anchor Marina. Shortly after tying lines, we heard church bells ring out playing several old hymns-so cool! At our dockage, we have a great view of the St. Lawrence River’s shipping lane where we can watch the big freighters motor by bound east or west.
About 6 pm, Jean Luc arrived with the rental car. Tonight's dinner was aboard (turkey burgers, "White Hot" dogs, rice, beans, and salad), and no Rummikub tonight. Instead, we visited our neighboring boaters, Raoul and Karen, on their 44 ft. Beneteau sailboat, Issandra, and shared stories until after 10 pm. They are from Montreal and had numerous traveling and boating stories to share. Great time!
It was an interesting sunset over the St Lawrence River.
Saturday, August 2, 2014
This morning, our crew mate, Jean Luc, returns to Minnesota via Syracuse. It has been a great time, and we have packed a lot into a few days. With coffee and breakfast completed, hugs and adieus were exchanged. Steve was in charge of the shuttle to the airport, and Mary completed morning chores and then explored the quaint little town of Cape Vincent. The farmer’s market was set up in the town square (yeah! fresh, organic eggs!), the town shops were open, and the Breakwater Art Gallery was welcoming visitors.
At 2 pm, we bid adieu to our Canadian friends, Rauol and Karen, stored the dock lines, and slipped back into the St Lawrence River heading west to our destination of Sackets Harbor twenty five miles away.
At 5 pm, we tied up at Madison Barracks Marina at Sackets Harbor.
Sackets Harbor became the center of American navel and military activity for the upper St. Lawrence Valley and Lake Ontario following the outbreak of the War of 1812 between the US and Great Britain. A large feet was constructed at the shipyards. In the following years, this area grew to become an important shipping and boat building center.
Near the marina, two old brick buildings built during war time (a theater and an old army hospital) are being restored. The hotel and sports center (previously barracks) are completed and already in use.
Once the paperwork was completed, we took the twenty minute walk to town. As we started out, we passed a marker identifying the area overlooking the lake as Fort Pike, a fort built for defense during the War of 1812. Next, we passed by a one acre grassy area which was marked as a burial grounds of men who died from 1812-1818 during the War of 1812.
We continued on through town, to the end of Main St. where the Sackets Harbor Battlefield overlooks Lake Ontario. The Annual War of 1812 Living History Weekend started Friday and will continue tomorrow. Re-enactors from the US and Canada will gather at the Battlefield for tactical weapons display Sunday morning. The museums were closed, so we plan to return tomorrow.
On the dock where Dream Chaser was tied, equipment for a paddle board business was stored. So, people rented paddle boards from our dock. They were having a great time!
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