Tuesday, June 23, 2015
At 7 am, It's a cold 57 degrees, and we can hear the wind blowing outside the boat!
At 8:30 am, Dream Chaser pulled from her dock at Hurst Marine, near Manotick, ON, and headed for Merrickville, ON. Our day was overcast with whipping 25 mph winds and a few showers. We hoped the storms would keep moving south away from us. The view varied along the way from farms and pastures with cattle, to wooded shores, to cottages and very large new homes. Dream Chaser was alone going south, but saw a couple boats headed north on the canal.
Merrickville, our destination for tonight, is called the “Jewel of the Rideau”. The town has kept its unique character and architecture as a preserved 19th century village. There are many historic buildings and churches that date back to the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. We have been told that Merrickville is a great place to stop, shop, and eat!
Beginning in 1783 after the Revolutionary War, Loyalists, many of which were Welsh, German, Dutch, Scottish, and Irish farmers, left the US and settled along the Rideau River. Merrickville was named after the landowner, Mr. Mirick, who built a sawmill in the early 1790’s. Soon after, other businesses appeared: lumber, shingles, grist mill, foundry, blacksmiths shop, hotels, and taverns. With local resources and the presence of the canal, Merrickville peaked as a manufacturing center from 1850 to the 1890’s.
About noon, Dream Chaser slid up to the dockage below Lock 21 in Merrickville, and we waited for instructions to lock through. About 20 minutes later, the lock gates opened, the lockmaster explained the procedure, and Dream Chaser started the locking process up Lock 21, 22, & 23. These locks operate manually today as they did in 1832. Captain Steve did an excellent job of moving our 16 ton vessel into each lock while the wind played tricks. After exiting the last lock, we followed the 1/2 mile channel to the wide river, turned to the starboard side, and work our way back to the dam.
With 25 mph winds, we motored past the dam and docked on the cement wall at the city dock between the intake for the power plant and the overflow of the dam (which is really moving from all the recent rains!). We were very grateful for two great diesel engines, several high quality fenders, and assistance from the Parks Canada lockmaster and employees (with lots of muscle)!
As soon as Dream Chaser was secured, we headed to the Main Street Cafe and ordered salads for lunch. Great place to eat!
Next stop was the blockhouse (now a museum) located next to the locks. When construction on the Rideau Canal began, Merrickville was already an established village and was considered a logical target for American invasion. The blockhouse, first and largest on the Rideau Canal, was built in 1832, after the War of 1812, to protect the lock station. The walls of the basement (where they stored gun powder) and main floor were made 3-4 ft. thick of rough coursed limestone. The upper floor was constructed of heavy timbers to withstand cannon fire, and the roof was covered with tin to make it fireproof. A moat (dry ditch) surrounds the building, and the entrance has a drawbridge. This 500 ft. square blockhouse's main purpose was to house troops (usually 36-50 soldiers) and protect Merrickville. It’s worth a visit. There are displays of artifacts, an early schoolhouse, and information on the town, locks, and building.
Across the bridge on the other side of the locks, we found the Merrickville Ruins, the site of the original woolen mill. Merrickville had skilled population of Scottish, British, and Irish descent who were skilled in working with metals and textiles, and the town develop quite a reputation, not only for their skill but for their aggressive behavior.
The work environment for the canal workers was difficult with long 14-16 hour days, close communal living, and the outbreaks of malaria. The tensions between the Irish Protestants and French Catholics often culminated in skirmishes. Many workers hated authority, and Irish workers would attack sheriffs and their construction bosses causing continuous turmoil. When canal construction was completed, several of the workers were given positions as lockmasters.
You never know who you might find at the checkout counter in the quaint village of Merrickville.
With an iced coffee in hand, we headed out to explore this Victorian village with its antique shop; gift shops; fudge and ice cream shops; ladies boutiques; leather shop; Christmas shop; home decor; pet boutique; country store; restaurants; and Mrs. McGarrigle’s shop (where you find her amazing home-made mustards! Try the tarragon!).
By 7 pm, we were sitting in the salon having dinner of salmon burgers, left over BBQ ribs, sweet potatoes, peas & carrots, and pasta with vodka sauce. The last of our apple crisp was dessert. The wind has drop to a nice breeze (5 mph) and the sun has continued to shine throughout the afternoon.
As evening fell, we strolled through quiet Merrickville, and then spent a quiet evening planning, reading, and writing. Beautiful sunset!
Wednesday, June 24, 2015
Today, we motored from the quaint village of Merrickville to Smiths Falls, ON.
By 8:45 am, we were waiting at the dock below Lock 24, Kilmarnock, for its opening at 9 am. The Lockmasters on the Rideau do not use VHF. When they see you and it is time to open, they will greet you and proceed. They arrived about 9 am, waved a greeting, and informed us that another boat was joining us for a lock through, also, so it would be at least 9:30 am. It is a bit of "hurry up and wait" situation.
Today, the Rideau Canal directed us through many shallow spots, like the "Big Marsh". These areas look like lakes, but are very shallow, and boaters need to pay special attention to the day markers and followed the channel. We saw depths of 6 1/2 ft., at times. The marine guide to the Rideau reports high weed growth and to check the boats' C-strainers which filter the water to the engines. Its still early, so we don't see much weed growth, yet. There may be a weed problem in July and August. At Kilmarnock, Lock 24, we looked for the rare black terns, but had no luck. However, there are multitudes of ducks, geese, loons, and other marsh birds.
The park staff crank winches using brute strength to open and close gates and sluice (water channel) valves. The attendants really get a work out when there are numerous boats locking through.
Smiths Falls is the half way point between Ottawa and Kingston on the Rideau and was a major junction for the Canadian Pacific Railroad. Actually, canal, rail, and highway converge at Smiths Falls which greatly impacted the town.
With the Smiths Falls watertower above, Dream Chaser locked through Combined Lock 29A (a lift of 67 ft.) which replaced the flight of three: Locks 28, 29, & 30. This combined lock is an automated lock which operates electrically, hydraulic valves that open and close gates and sluices.
This is Lock 29A with the water drained down. At the end of the locking day, the water in the locks is lowered to eliminate some of the stress on the lock.
Lunch was quick (left over pasta and carrot/dill soup), and we were off to explore Smiths Falls.
First stop was at the Rideau Canal Museum. The attendant was a wealth of information from what's ahead on the canal, to great places in town, to favorite restaurants! The canal museum has a wealth of memorabilia beginning with the construction of the lock. We started with a short information video and then visited the four floors with exhibits on the history of the Rideau Canal.
With an iced coffee in hand, we popped in and out of shops and businesses along Beckwith Street. We were disappointed to learn that the Hershey's Factory was no longer open. Heritage House, a Victorian House with a two storey privey, and the railroad museum was on our list and tempting, but too far away for walking.
After accumulating some of our provisions at the downtown market, we found the most wonderful restaurant for dinner! "My Place", a restaurant serving European specialties, is owned by a man from Czechoslovakia. We started with a delicious mango/curry/coconut soup...
Smiths Falls is the largest community we will encounter until we reach Kingston on Lake Ontario, so, we headed to a larger grocery on the other side of the canal for the rest of our needs. It was a great night for a walk!
Thursday, June 25, 2015
What a glorious morning! Presently 63 degrees with high of 75 and no rain in the forecast- just sunshine!
We slept lightly due to lines that continued to make interesting rubbing noises. We also were anticipating the line up at Lock 31, our next lock on the edge of Smiths Falls. During the night, one boat had moved into position for dock line-up (to guarantee a prime lock through) so by 8 am, we were positioned behind him on the blue line for a 9 am bridge opening.
The bridges and locks used to open up at 8 am, but due to government cut backs, this year, they do not open up until 9 am. It’s first come first serve for locking, and we have several miles to cover, today.
With Dream Chaser secured, it was off to the nearby grocery store to purchase the heavy items we decided to fore-go yesterday on our long walk like potatoes, onion, etc.
The Detached Lock 31 is built on raw bedrock and lifts boats 8 1/2 ft. The old railway bridge just following the lock was built in the early 1900’s and is permanently elevated over the canal.
After Smiths Falls, its 2 1/2 miles to the next lock, and the canal is marshland with numerous duck blinds.
Poonamalie Lock ( Lock 32) plays a major role as a control point for the water levels of Lower and Big Rideau Lakes. So, where did the funny name (pronounced poon-a-mallee) come from? The area reminded one of the British engineers of the Tamil region of India.
We motored through a narrow limestone cut with just enough room for one boat to pass through. Whew!
We will not be transiting Locks 34 & 35. They are on the Tay Canal which runs south to Perth, ON.
When the canal was being constructed, they came to the Upper Rideau section to continue the canal and were challenged with digging a one mile trench across this low area. They had lost so many laborers to injury and illness, that they needed an option. The solution was to built a dam and lock at the narrows and raise the existing lake three feet and thus, avoiding the intense labor of a ditch for this section.
The lock stations, like this one at the Narrows Lock, are inviting with benches, picnic tables, and grills.
After passing through the Narrows, Lock 35, we are on Upper Rideau Lake headed towards Westport at the west end of Upper Rideau Lake. Along the way, we spotted some interesting boats.
About 1:30 pm, Dream Chaser was secured at the Westport town dock. We paid $2 for docking and were off to explore the two block radius of town next to the harbor.
Westport is a charming, little town with big stone churches, quaint houses, great boutique shops, tourist shops, and also functional stores like a market and hardware store. What began as a lumber and grist milling area, it is now a tourist destination with cute shops and restaurants. The famous Church St. Bakery, one of our planned destinations had closed, but we found another bakery that had rhubarb custard tortes, so all was well! The docking attendant at the Westport city docks said that during the last two weeks in July, the Rideau area and Westport is crazy packed with Quebecois. “You don’t want to be here during that time!” By 2:45 pm, we are untied and motoring towards Newboro, ON.
I hope the owners don't sleep walk!
At Newboro Lock, Lock 36, we are at the highest point in the canal which is the Upper Rideau Lake, so the water in the canal will run south to Kingston. The Newboro blockhouse is one of four blockhouses on the Rideau Canal designed like the one at Merrickville. After the canal was completed in 1832, 71 soldiers took land grants offered by Colonel By.
Now that we are through the Newboro Lock, we are off Upper Rideau Lake and are now motoring through a chain of lakes including Clear Lake and Indian Lake.
We are seeing small islands with cottages and pines. Numerous loons are calling and doing their loon dances. It reminds us of the north end of Lake of the Woods or near our cabin in Ontario.
Wow, talk about a narrow passages as we snaked our way between islands leading to the Chaffey Lock! Captain Steve was on alert!
At 5 pm, we arrived at Chaffey Lock, Lock 37, which was named after the Chaffey family who operated mills at this site. We docked below the lock and walked to the Opinicon Resort for dinner.
The friendly staff served us a wonderful dinner while surrounded by a setting full of history and beauty. Sprinkles of rain greeted us as we left, so we hurried to Dream Chaser, pulled the lines, and headed for our dockage only minute across the lake.
By 7 pm, Dream Chaser was secured below Davis Lock, Lock 38. This lock is considered one of the prettiest locks on the canal. It is reported to be quaint, tranquil, natural, immaculate, and dramatic. Actually, the report is accurate!
As night fell, at about 9 pm, we heard taps being played in this little corner of heaven. Seeking out the source, we saw a gentlemen with a bright red suit jacket playing a trumpet on the edge of the shore about 50 yards away. Applause broke out from everyone. Really cool!
After a quick lock through at Davis Lock, we were off and motoring by 9:15 am. From Davis Lock, we entered a narrow cut of limestone and motored close to cottages along the way.
By 10 am, we arrived at Jones Falls, Lock 39. The flight of four locks at Jones Falls drop the water 60 ft. Jones Falls was first called Long Falls and then renamed for the property owner Charles Jones. We tied Dream Chaser on the blue line (painted length of dock where boats wait to lock through) and explored the area.
We walked over the lock bridge and walked by the Sweeney House, one of the 12 remaining lockmaster's houses, but a bit more luxurious.
On exiting the locks, we secured Dream Chaser at the lower docks, checked out the interpretive center, and were on our way by 11:30 am. After leaving Jones Falls, we enjoyed cruising between pretty little island and hearing the calling of the loons.
At Murphey’s Narrows, we enter a two mile, very narrow craggy granite channel with a sign requesting that we blow our boat horn. Within minutes, we met three boats in this very narrow channel, too narrow to pass! They must have felt they had power in numbers in spite of the fact that, Dream Chaser towered over them. All three boats should have turned around and got out of our way, but, NO, they just kept coming. Its good Captain Steve knows how to maneuver Dream Chaser, so well. He managed to back into a very tiny cove area without hanging up on shore. They waved and smiled oblivious to the damage they almost caused! It is soooooo hard to wave and smile at stupid boaters! But, we did!
We entered Cranberry Lake (named from the local cranberry marsh that was flooded for the canal). Seeley’s Bay is lovely resort area with cafes, a grocery, and a golf course. We had an agenda, so we continued on to Upper Brewer Lock.
At 1:30 pm, eleven miles later, we arrived at Lock 44, Upper Brewer Lock, but the lock was not open, so we tied up and waited.
After locking through, we motored two miles to Lock 45, Lower Brewer Lock, locked through, and were on our way by 2 pm.
As we passed Joyceville, ON, we saw the guard tower and multiple buildings of the federal penitentiary off our port side. This is probably not a good place to offer any one a ride, especially if they are wearing orange jumpsuits. On the subject of escapees…In a previous post, I mentioned two convicts that escaped about three weeks ago from a penitentiary near Plattsburg, NY where Dream Chaser was docked. Today, one of the convicts was found and shot not far from the facility, but the other is still on the loose. It appears that the escapees have been breaking into and hiding out in cabins on the edge of the Adirondacks.
Dream Chaser followed the day markers, carefully, through Colonel By Lake, a very large shallow lake once merely a channel through a large marsh. After construction of the dam at Kingston Mills, the area was flooded leaving lots of stumps and dead-heads to avoid, but created wonderful fish habitat. We are seeing numerous swans.
After nine miles of motoring from Lock 45, we arrived at Kingston Mills, one of the most picturesque and dramatic of the locks on the Rideau. This lock station has a shady rest area, picnic tables, and historic displays. At Kingston Mills, there is a flight of locks- four locks in a row. We had a 20 minute wait while three other boats worked their way up and cleared the locks.
Since there was a delay, we hopped out and chatted with the boaters in Silver Shadow, a 29’ Monterey. We’ve have been transiting several of the locks together, today.
Kingston Mills was, originally, developed to provide for the growing settlement at Kingston. A 20 ft. waterfall provided the power for the saw mills and the other mills to grind the wheat and corn. Years later, Colonel By constructed a 400 ft. arched dam which dammed the river above the falls. To overcome the steep drop at Cataraqui Falls, By then cut a side channel for the flight of locks. The top lock is separate, then a basin, and then the last three locks with a total lift of 45 ft. A beautiful setting!
We moved down the locks and out, thanking our lock attendants for their assistance and waving au-revoir to our boating friends. Our adventure on the Rideau Canal was over. It has been an absolutely marvelous experience! If you get the opportunity to explore the Rideau Canal, you will love it! What a gorgeous part of Ontario!
By 5 pm, we were at the lift bridge in Kingston, but it was rush hour, and the bridge wasn’t moving until 6 pm, so we had time for a siesta.
Once Dream Chaser was secured, we checked in at the office, and were on our way to dinner. Earlier in the trip, we were given the recommendation to eat at the “Wok In” for dinner. The restaurant is a little “crack in the wall” on Montreal St., but serves wonderful Cambodian, Vietnamese, and Thai food. The food is prepared, just behind the counter, by a husband and wife team. The spices were perfect…it was delicious!
The streets were busy with tourists and locals enjoying their Friday night. The bagpipes were no longer playing their music in the park, but an artist was sketching faces of customers, and ice cream appeared to be very popular with the crowd. At the marina, boaters were sitting on the docks chatting and enjoying drinks or late suppers. It was a wonderful quiet night in the marina.
Saturday, June 27, 2015
On our way out of Kingston, we motored by the Kingston Penitentiary (Kingston Pen), a former maximum security prison and the most famous prison in Canada. Kingston is known to have the most penitentiaries in Canada.
After an hour of motoring through the BIG water of Lake Ontario (thankfully, under ideal conditions), Dream Chaser followed the channel, veered to the right, and then tucked behind islands on her trek west.
At 10:30 am, Dream Chaser scooted across the path of the Glenora Ferry which passes every 30 minutes servicing Gleenora and Adolphstown, ON.
We have chosen to stop at Picton, ON for a stretch and lunch. Picton, named after an honored British Lieutenant General, is the largest community in Prince Edward County and known for its Empire loyalist heritage. In 1784, a group of Loyalists moved north after the American Revolution and began settlements in this area.
We walked the charming historic Main St. and popped in and out of the many tempting little shops. Lunch was at the Painted Peppercorn, a cozy little cafe. The Bean Counter Café is a great place for an iced coffee to-go. Picton is a great place to pick up provisions with two grocery stores and numerous other shops. If you’ve run out of reading material, there are two bookstores, discount/consignment shops, and a Royal Canadian store with memorabilia. Hey, there’s even a movie theater!
"Rosie", a cute little red tugboat like vessel, is docked in the Picton Harbor. Perhaps she's the town’s mascot?
We enjoyed Picton, so much, with its charm and small town atmosphere, that we decided to dock overnight. The rains began about 6 pm, but we were already on Dream Chaser enjoying dinner: lobster, baked potatoes, peas, and a scoop of ice cream for dessert. It was a quiet night, and we fell asleep with the patter of the falling rain.
Next post: The Trent-Servern Waterway beginning at Trenton
