The Ottawa River and Ottawa

The Ottawa River and Ottawa

Monday, June 15, 2015
Docked at  Saint-Anne-de-Bellevue, Quebec

Dream Chaser remains tied at the dock, but later today she will be entering the Saint-Anne-de Bellevue Lock. In the picture, it is straight ahead and under the bridge.  The lock opens at 9:30 am, but we plan to leave about noon.

It is quiet along the canal in Saint-Anne-de-Bellevue, this morning, with temps in the mid 60’s. A high of 70 is promised later, today.  Birds are chirping, and there is an occasional low roar from a passing train on the distant bridge. 
By 6:30 am, the boardwalk is busy with people enjoying their morning walks.  Sanitation workers are busy in the park with cleanup from the weekend, and the city workers are planting flowers.  The day has begun.

The charming village of St-Anne-de-Bellevue is waking up slowly, and we noticed only one or two shops were “overt” (open) when we took our early morning stroll through town.

 This is the quaint Bord’Eaux Bistro and Pub on Anne St.  Love these cute buildings!

This charming stone house was built in 1798 for a fur merchant.  Threatened with demolition in the 1960’s, it was saved and is now a designated historical monument.

At 9 am, Mary found The Twig, a little French cafe on old quaint Anne St, where she had a delightful latte and found Wifi access for writing the blog.   Steve walked the town in search of guide books for the Rideau and Trent-Severen Canals and, also, a post office.  Unfortunately, most of the shops are closed on Mondays or don’t open until 10 am.

By 11:45 am, Dream Chaser had entered the lock at Saint-Anne-de-Bellevue.  This lock has  “clean and easy” floating docks attached to the old rough lock walls.  Boat lines are secured to the dock cleats and up you go.  No gunky, smelly ropes to grab and hold.  Actually, we ate a TBLT sandwich (turkey, bacon, lettuce, tomato) while we were waiting to be lifted two feet to the level of the next waterway.  As the lock doors opened, we found ourselves at the beginning of the Ottawa River.
Today, we are motoring the upper Ottawa River from Staint-Anne-de-Bellevue, Quebec to Hawkesbury, Ontario.  The Ottawa River is one of the longest on the continent (97 miles long). Beginning in 1613 with Champlain, many great explorers used the Ottawa River as a river highway into the interior.  The native peoples, fur traders, loggers, and early settlers traveled, lived, and died along this river. 

We’ve been motoring along a wide part of the Ottawa River, and as it narrowed, we saw the ferry crossing at Oka.  This village was founded by monks in about 1872, and the Oka Cistercian Trappist Monastery can be seen from the water.

It is a pretty cruise from Hudson to the Carillon Lock, and there are heavily wooded shores with many cottages.  At mile 89.6, just before the Carillon Lock and Dam, there is a small ferry crossing.
We contacted the Carillon Lock via the marine radio to request a lock-through.  One of our guide books said that the lockmaster yells orders in French, and that you just have to yell back in English.  We must have had the new guy, because he spoke perfect English and was VERY friendly and helpful.
The Carillon Lock, at mile 71.3, is the highest lock in Canada with a lift of 65 ft., replacing seven previous locks on the river.  This lock has a guillotine type lock door, one of only two in North America.  Lock E17, at Little Falls, NY on the Erie Canal, is the other lock of this type which we transited twice-once last summer and once this summer.

    We are approaching the Carillon dam and lock from down river side.  Lock is far right.

                                      This is the remaining entrance and wall of the old lock.

                                 We are approaching the lock, but the lock door is still down.

                                       The lock door is opening with the lock door going up.

                     The down river lock door while it is still open (looking from inside the lock).

                    The down river lock door is coming down to close (looking from inside the lock).

A view of the up river lock door and wall before the lock is filled with water.  The bow of Dream Chaser is pointed up river towards this lock wall and door.  The up-river side of the Carillon Lock has a car tunnel under the cement where the lock opens (the boats pass over it when the lock fills).

The Carillon Lock, also, has those great floating docks!  Mary is retrieving the lines as they are being untied from the floating dock.  Dream Chaser has now reached the up river level. 

                               A number of farms are situated on the Ottawa River.  

                                  Many great homes and cottages along the river. 


We spent the afternoon, in the upper helm, cruising west on the Ottawa River while listening to David McCullough’s  CD’s on “The Wright Brothers”.  A piece of mango cheesecake from the Twig Café added to the perfection!

This is what the auto pilot screen looks like under operating conditions.  We simply put dots on the screen and the boat (icon at the bottom of the picture) follows the purple line up the river to the flag (the destination).  

            Steve has a unique way of controlling the speed of the boat without exerting much effort.

                   

At 5:30 pm, we reached the city dock at Hawkesbury.  There was a fairly swift current pushing by the dock.  As we were moving into place, a guy who had been sitting in his car asked if we would like some assistance.  We NEVER turn down help, so Dream Chaser was easily secured.  Ron was a great guy with sailing in his blood.  He had some time, so volunteered to drive us into the town of Hawkesbury to pick up supplies.  We had great conversation while he chauffeured  us to two stores and then dropped us off at a restaurant within walking distance of the dock.  Ron is planning to spend the winter of 2015 in the Bahamas on his own boat.  What a great guy…Thanks Ron!

Dunn’s Famous Hawkesbury Restaurant is a delicatessen serving Rockland Ontario’s best smoked meat sandwiches (corned beef with a squirt of mustard, piled high on rye bread)! Yes, we ordered it!  Yes, it was mouth watering!

Hawkesbury was founded in 1798, but most of the original town was lost under water in the building of the Carrillon Dam.  The city dock is on small island a short walk over the bridge from town. This area, known as Hawkesbury Mills, was founded in 1798 and is designated as an  historic and architectural heritage site. By 1822, 22 mills were operating in this area.  There is a cultural center in an historic lumber building located near the dock, and new outdoor  sculptures. 

We tried to gather more information on the newly installed art sculptures (ground out of granite slabs), but had no luck! Very cool!

Tonight, docking is included in our Canada Parks pass, so no extra charges. 

Tuesday, June 16, 2015
At 5:30 am Dream Chaser’s diesel engines were started, and after a bit of warm up, she pulled from her dockage at Hawkesbury and headed back into the current of the Ottawa River.  Storms are predicted to be moving into this area by 9 am, so we plan to be a few hours north when that occurs.  Now, temps are at 63, it is overcast, and a great morning for motoring.

As we leave Hawkesbury, we are now on the Lower Ottawa River all the way to Ottawa. 
At this point, the Ottawa River is a provincial border with Ontario.  Some parts of the river appear more like a lake, but there are strong currents affected by rainfall and dam settings.  The river carries large amounts of sediment, so it appears dirty.  Captains need to remain alert due to the twists and turns in the river and the occasional deadheads.  Logs from the timbering days have been know to float up from the bottom.

At 8 am, the rain started and continued throughout the afternoon.  The captain continues to dodge ferries as they scurry back and forth across the river picking up and dropping off vehicles in record time.  As we get closer to Ottawa, we are seeing that the "cottages" along the river have grown up and are often big beautiful 2-3 story homes.

At mile 42.2, we passed the marina at Chateau Montebello, the largest log structure in the world.  We had planned to stop, but due to the rain, we will return by rental to explore the area.

 There are several ferry crossings along the route, and they have the right-of-way, so its all in the timing!

As we near Ottawa, Steve has been attempting to communicate with the casino in Gatineau, Quebec where we plan to dock tonight, but no one seems to have much information on bridge heights in the area.  We know we have a reservation, but we are not sure how high the bridges are just prior to the casino.  With the bimini top up and the radar tower lowered, Dream Chaser can clear 15 ft.  As Dream Chaser was beginning to move under the first bridge, the captain yelled to the crew "how does it look"?  (will we clear the bridge?)  Its hard to tell and give an answer when the crew has her eyes shut in terror!  We heard later that the bridge was 15'6" with normal water levels.  Dream Chaser cleared by six inches!  Wow!

    Dream Chaser is happy to be docked at the Casino du Lac-Leamy and is enjoying the fountain.

The sun broke through the clouds as we were docking in front of the casino.  The Casino du Lac-Leamy is a government casino built in 1996 on a rocky precipice of a quarry south of the main Leamy Lake.   It is located on the northern bank of the Ottawa River in an area known as Hull.  Captains need to follow the marked channel carefully to reach this protected dockage and be very aware of their height clearance.  We are ahead of the crowd of boats, so there is plenty of room, but it must be crazy here in the summer with boats jockeying for dock space.

Having had such an early morning, we relaxed, had a salad lunch, took a short nap, and Steve did laundry.

About 5 pm, we hopped in our Hyundi Accent and headed across the Ottawa River to Ottawa, Canada's capital, to explore the city.  After dinner at a great Chinese buffet, we scouted out Parliament Hill, Little Italy, located a few museums, and found Byward Market.  We plan to revisit the area when Dream Chaser is docked above the Rideau Locks.  Even though most of the market was closed, the area was very busy and the restaurants were just waking up for the evening.  While in Byward Market, we visited the BeaverTails stand which sells a popular dessert of crispy fried dough in the shape of a beaver tail. You choose the toppings:  whipped cream, banana slices, hazelnut, maple butter, crumbled Oreos, Nutella, baking sugar, cinnamon, chocolate, apples with caramel sauce, etc.  It's a Canadian classic!

We had wanted to experience a six course dinner at De La Rive Farm on the shore of the Rigaud River.  We had heard about this amazing place from a guy at Herb's Cafe in Saint-Anne-de-Bellevue. A couple purchased a farm in 2006, followed organic principles, and now provide a fine dining experience at their farm house (Table Champetre).  Unfortunately, they are only open in late in the summer, due to having to grow the wonderful food first.  Don't miss this experience if you are in the area during late summer or fall.  I was told that they have a dock on the river for access for boaters.

We drove to Hog's Back Falls as night was falling.  What a terrible name for such a beautiful falls.
Actually, the official name of the falls is Prince of Wales Falls.  Prior to the construction of the Rideau Canal, these were a gentle set of rapids, but with the dam construction and watering being diverted from the Rideau River, the rushing Hog's Back Falls was created.

On our way back to Dream Chaser, we took a walk through the casino, checked out the restaurants, and watched people intensive in their gaming.   We followed the boardwalk down to the docks and saw a little skunk go scurrying into the bushes.  Mary will be watching for "Stinky" every time she leaves the boat, now!

                        It's very peaceful and picturesque tucked into this piece of the city.


Wednesday, June 17, 2015
By 8 am, we were in the rental car and on our way to Le Château Montebello, a luxury resort by Fairmont Hotels, in Quebec.  The resort is set on 65,000 acres with 70 lakes on the shores of the Ottawa River.  We will be back tracking 45 miles to the château, but it is a beautiful day with no rain in sight and the drive is worth it.

                                             La Château Montebello from the Ottawa River.

By 9 am, we had arrived at the château and were blown away by its massive size. The Chateau Montebello was built in 1930, at the onset of the Great Depression.  The massive log château was built in three months by 3,500 workers.  The massive structure was built in the form of a six-point star with hand-cut and set red cedar logs shipped from British Columbia.  Four wings of rooms fan out from the rotunda and the other wings are the dining room and ballroom.  For forty years is was a private retreat for members such as prime ministers, royalty, and business elite.  In 1970, it was opened to the public and became a premier resort in Eastern Canada.  Besides the 211 guest rooms in the chateau with several restaurants, there are two swimming pools, tennis courts, 18-hole golf course, stables, spa, Heli-pad, and the list goes on.

Besides the unique structure, it has a fascinating history.  The château has hosted many world leaders attending important meetings, including the G7 Economic Summit in 1981, a NATO meeting in 1983, and a trilaterial summit (leaders from Canada, Mexica, and US) in 2007.  The pictures on the second floor show that many political leaders and celebrities have been guests at the château.

As we stepped into the rotunda of this "log castle" with the big fireplace in the middle, we both found it similar to Yellowstone Lodge in Yellowstone National Park but MUCH bigger and more luxurious!

                         This view is looking down to the rotunda from the second floor.

 This view is looking down from the 2nd floor into the restaurant where the breakfast buffet is set up.

We enjoyed breakfast while seated by the window overlooking the river.  Who could resist maple crepes, made to order omelets, sausage & bacon, baked beans, fresh fruits, a variety of berry parfaits, cheeses and cold meats, pastries & breads, and juices & coffee & tea?  If you wanted to eat healthy, oatmeal was available.

Monte the hotel's canine ambassador was taking a rest when we arrived.  He was originally a seeing-eye dog, but his great personality helped him attain a position in hospitality at the hotel.

His doghouse and resting mattress is in the rotunda of the hotel with a sign telling the guests that he is not allowed to return to the rooms with them or eat their treats.  He would be a temptation!

It would have been great to stay longer, but it was time to move on.  Next stop, the Diefenbunker:  Canada's Cold War Museum in Carp, Ontario. The bunker was named after the then Prime Minister John Diefenbunker who attempted to keep the construction secret, but information was leaked by a nosey reporter.

Our tour of the Diefenbunker began at 2 pm and took us through recreations of the government work spaces, living quarters, cryptographic areas, the War Cabinet, and the Bank of Canada Vault.  Built in secrecy between 1959 and 1961, at the height of the Cold War, this 300 room, 100,000 square ft. four-storey underground bunker was  designed to house Canada's key government and military officials (but not their families) in the event of a nuclear strike against Canada.  The bunker was designed to withstand a 5 megaton nuclear blast from a little over one mile away.  It could house 535 people (all on a secured, pre-determined list) and provide for their needs for a period of 30 days.  The facility had only 330 beds, so they used "hot bunking" where 2-3 people shared a bunk in shifts.
In case of a nuclear event...On arrival to the bunker, the chosen 535 (allowed one suitcase, only) would be checked for radiation and go through a decontamination chamber just inside the entrance.  Multiple cleaning processes would hopefully allow them entrance and their belongings.

Steve is standing by an atomic bomb, and the entry to the bunker is to the right.

This is the hallway to enter the bunker and then there were lead lined double doors at the entrance.

Portions of the wall in the hallways were striped vertically and the floor was striped, as seen above, to help avoid the feeling of claustrophobia.

This is the Prime Minister's suite- a bed and a spring-mounted toilet through the door to the left.  The facility was designed to flex under pressure in case of earth quake, etc.  The room for the military was not much bigger, and housed nine men in bunk beds three-deep with no toilet on their floor. There were two escape hatches in case the entrance doors became blocked.
Although the construction of the bunker was supposed to be kept secret, the information leaked out due to all the activity on the site, and Russia probably knew more about the facility that the residents of Carp, Ontario.  Interesting place!

Back in Ottawa, we ran errands and made a quick stop at Marché Parkdale, a local summer market. The produce is eye-catching and the flowers are beautiful!  We couldn't resist!


Time for dinner...we chose La Bistro Pho just a few blocks from the Lac-Leamy Casino.

Pho is a Vietnamese noodle soup consisting of broth, rice noodles, and meat.  Our order had flank steak, brisket, tripe, and meatballs.   This pho is served with bean sprouts, basil, and a lime slice.
We though it had a nice presentation and exceptional flavor! 

 While we ran errands tonight, two hot air balloons drifted over head advertising something.  It is all very French on this Quebec side of the river- signs, spoken language, and street names.  Cross back over the river to Ottawa, and you will find English spoken fluently along with French.

                                                The city lights and the fountain are so pretty tonight!

With errands completed, we returned to Dream Chaser, chatted with the neighbors, and settled in for the night.  So wonderfully quiet quiet!

Thursday, June 18, 2015
We wake to a very quiet marina and realize we are the only transient boat left at the dock.  Our friends have headed back to Montreal and other destinations.
After our breakfast (blueberry pancakes with melted butter and a drizzle of Vermont maple syrup), we are off to run errands and to visit the the Canadian War Museum on 1 Vimy Place in Ottawa (while we have the rental car).

The Canadian War Museum is Canada's national museum of of military history covering all facets of Canada's military past from the first armed violence several hundred years ago to the more recent involvement in conflicts. From the beginning of war in Canada up to the 21st Century, First Peoples warriors, soldiers, sailors, and air force personnel have shaped Canada and the world.  We visited the permanent exhibits on wars fought on Canadian soil, wars of the 20th century, the Cold War, and Canada's history of honoring and remembrance.  The lower level of the museum has a collection of tanks, artillery, and other machines of war.

Steve took an interest in the Sherman Tank Cutaway which had been used as training tool for vehicle operators and technicians. He's showing you the thickness of the armored plating on the tank using his IPhone (notice the green edge of the phone).

One of the many items on display was...Hitler's black armored Mercedes Benz limousine (a symbol of evil in the world).   Hitler used this parade car to propagate his regime's image of strength and power.  In 1945, American troops captured it an brought it to Canada.
"Death and Glory: Gladiators and the Colosseum" opened last week targeting the Colosseum, the gladiators, and what a day spent at the Colosseum would look like.  The special exhibition included
interesting collections of artifacts from the Colosseum. 

The Elgin Street Diner, supposedly recognized all over the world, was our choice for a late lunch.  Open 24 hours a day 365 days a year, its like a bar for non-alcohol drinking foodies!  This place was featured on "You Gotta Eat Here"-the video is on the Food Network.  Best poutine in Canada!
The Philly Steak Poutine (Philly steak, sauteed mushrooms, fried onions, and cheese curds) on home-cut fries covered in brown gravy gets our award!  Amazing comfort food!  You can't help but feel HAPPY (until you get you cholesterol count at your next physical).
By the way, poutine is a dish originating in Quebec made with french fries, topped with light brown gravy and white cheddar cheese curds.  There are variations with various meats (smoked beef and chili), multiple types of cheeses, and various other ingredients. Poutine is served throughout Canada, but the French-Canadians claim it as theirs.  "Ce n'est pas tellement une surprise, non?"

A very nice Hilton Hotel is connected to the Lac-Leamy Casino, so we went exploring and found that the lobby is filled with imported marble and richly colored blown glass sculptures by Dale Chihuly.

The previous picture helps you gauge just how large these pieces of glass are on the marble wall.

Although its 7 pm, we aren't hungry enough to grab a bite at the casino, and can't think of what we would want to make, so cereal and a sandwich hit the spot.  Except for the ducks hanging out hoping to be fed, Dream Chaser is alone at the dock.  Even "stinky" (the local skunk) appears to have found another home!

Looking out the windows of Dream Chaser, this is our view of the fountain and lights from the city of Gatineau.  What a great dockage!

Tomorrow, Dream Chaser will be transiting the eight Rideau Locks on the Rideau Canal in downtown Ottawa (next to the Parliament Building).   Steve has been dreaming of this locking experience since visiting Ottawa on a family trip 20 years ago.  Most AGLCA loopers have commented that we will be just beginning the most beautiful part of the loop when we transit the locks, tomorrow.  We have found incredible scenery, fabulous places, and great people all along our journey since beginning our loop in August 2013, so we find it hard to believe that it will get even better.  After the Rideau Locks, we enter the Rideau Canal, then the Trent Severen Canal, Georgian Bay, North Channel, and, finally,  Detour, Michigan which will be our cross-over spot.