Continued through Sturgeon Lake (far right), followed the waterway to Gamebridge Lock, and crossed Lake Simcoe motoring north to Orillia.Sunday, July 5, 2015
After a great overnight at the Lakefield Marina, we are up by 6 am and anticipating our departure to Bobcaygeon later this morning. There was minimal movement from the boats around us after their late Saturday night parties. A ten minute walk brought us to the Gospel Chapel and the 9:30 am service with a time for coffee and chatting afterwards. Steve met Dave, an older gentleman, who has the transit (the tool used for determining heights from a given point to make sure things stay level) that was used on much of the Trent-Severn Waterway System and for sure the famous Peterborough Lift and Lock. Dave was a wealth of information. We meet the most interesting people at the local churches.
Back on Dream Chaser, we completed our prep for departure. By 11:30 am, Dream Chaser had glided from her slip and entered Lake Katchewanooka. We are blessed with perfect weather- sunshine, clear skies, temps in the 70’s, a soft breeze, and gorgeous scenery. People are out enjoying their Sunday on the water with kayaks, paddle boats, fishing boats, houseboats, wave runners, and speed boats.
By noon, we were at Young’s Point, Lock 27. The Young family settled here in 1825 and built an empire in steamboat building and shipping. The homestead is now Lockside Trading Company, a huge country store. We shared the lock with a dad and his daughter motoring in a runabout. The dad was taking his daughter for her last boat ride before she moves to Australia to attend the university in Brisbane. The Sunday crowd was filling the picnic area, gathering at the lock for a peek at the boats, visiting the cute tourist shop, and eating Kawartha ice cream. Sooo tempting!
But, its lunchtime, so we ate our salads while we cruised the calm waters of Clear Lake and anticipated our passage through Hell’s Gate which lay ahead. Clear Lake is a fairly large lake (good for sailing) with some impressively large houses.
Stoney Lake has more islands than the 1000 Islands area and is a popular lake for canoeing and sailing, but we passed through and continued on to Burleigh Falls. The cruising guidebooks direct boaters to stay in the middle of the channel due to rocks near the surface. We were entertained by the many boats zipping by, the sailboats trying to catch the wind, and fishing boats headed off to try their luck. Many tiny islands contained little cottages perched on the rocky surfaces.
We had a ten minute wait at Burleigh Falls, Lock 28, for boats transiting down. There is no longer a Lock 29 due to the new lock in 1968 replacing the two, and as a result, the steel doors of the lock are enormous! In chatting with boaters waiting for the lock (loopers talk to everybody!), we discovered that we had already passed through Hell’s Gate on our way! Wahoo! No Worries!
The busiest stretch of the waterway is from Lock 28 on and includes the next six locks and lakes.
At this point, the waterway winds through the rocky islands of Lovesick Lake and Lower Buckhorn Lake. At Lovesick Lake, the lake activity increased with more wave runners, and kids on tubes being pulled by boats, houseboats, and waverunners. One waverunner was pulling a skier! Lovesick Lock, Lock 30, is reported to be one of the prettiest locks with spots for swimming and picnics. So, you’re wondering how the lake received the name Lovesick? Well, there are two stories, one is about a Polly and the other about a Richard and both were rejected by their loves and fled heartbroken to deserted islands. Garbage is not to be disposed of at this lock because it draws un-welcomed guests like raccoons. We kept our eyes peeled for the bear who had tried to get on board boats looking for lunch!
Before we reached the Buckhorn Lock, the water narrowed into a tree-lined channel lined with cottages.
Buckhorn Lock, Lock 31, Wow! Talk about people! This area around the lock is crazy busy with boaters and people everywhere! House boat rentals are centered on Pigeon Lake, so this is the first lock for these first timers! Watch Out! This is where an extra fender comes in handy to fend off possible incidents in the locks. You want to avoid the rental houseboats and the incidents that may follow them! It's not a good way to meet new friends!
Buckhorn, a village that comes alive in the summer, was named after John Hall. He was an Irish immigrant who chose the falls as the site for his saw and grist mills. Hall mounted the prize antlers from his hunting expeditions on the side of his mill.
Buckhorn Lake opens up a bit, but due to submerged stumps, we stay in the channel.
Captain Steve held his breath while Dream Chaser squeezed under the blue bridge in Gannon Narrows with about 8 inches of clearance. Whew!
Pigeon Lake is wide open water with lots happening! This area is known for speedboats towing every type of water toy possible and their drivers who don’t pay attention to what is ahead. It was a VERY busy Sunday afternoon!
Our dockage below the lock is quiet and peaceful. Great choice Captain Steve!
The dockage below lock 32, was perfect! A quiet and peaceful spot to spend the night! We will explore the town and depart by noon.
Bobcaygeon is a great place for shops, services, restaurants, and provisioning all very close to the lock wall dockage. So, this morning, we are off to see the shops, especially, Bigley’s Shoes and Clothing on East St. Bigley’s was in view of our dockage since we arrived last night, and Mary was told to “be sure and check it out!” An institution in town since 1911, Bigley’s has an impressive selection of shoes! Take time to stroll Bolton, King and Main Streets.
Keep in mind, if you plan to visit, that the museums (Boyd Heritage Museum and the interpretive center at the lock) are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
As we left Bobcaygeon, Dream Chaser entered Sturgeon Lake, a V-shaped lake about 9 miles long. If you visit, don’t plan on fishing for sturgeon, because the lake has never had sturgeon in it. Go figure!?
Once popular for sailing regattas and steamboat excursions, now, the shoreline is filled with cottages, large summer homes, and elaborate boathouses. Sturgeon Lake is a beautiful 9 mile stretch, and we are almost disappointed when the lake ends and the water narrows into Fenelon Lake.
It’s a perfect day for cruising with temps in the low 80’s! As we entered the Fenelon River, the shoreline is packed with cottages and their “little pieces of heaven”. We came upon a blind corner, turned, and entered a narrow stretch with high limestone walls. When you motor slowly, its easier to take in the view of the long stairways built up from the water and the interesting types of boat lifts. Many people were sitting out on their patios or in their Adirondack chairs on their docks. Because the river was so narrow, we were close enough to yell a “Hello” and share a hand wave!
About 2:30 pm, we arrived at the Fenelon Falls Lock 34 (rebuilt into one lock in 1963), and we were the entertainment as we locked through!
The dock wall above the lock has no noticeable current and had plenty of space, so the captain slid Dream Chaser towards the end of the wall where we will catch a breeze off the water. This afternoon, temps are in the low 80’s, so a breeze is welcomed!
Fenelon Falls, founded in the 1830’s and originally named Cameron’s Falls, was named after a missionary among the aboriginal people of the area. The abundant forests and fast flowing water lured industry to the area and attracted settlers.
Next, we crossed the canal to Lindsay St. and within a block, we found a Sobeys Market, Canadian Tire, a hardware store, and a Tim Horton’s. After being in Canada a few weeks, many loopers are addicted to Tim’s coffee and baked sweets!
We enjoyed our dinner of chicken and pasta while “people watching”. The walkway is right next to the docked boats, so people can see inside as they are checking out the boats. If your lights are on and the portholes are open…they see it all. Tonight, a high percent of them are eating Kawartha ice cream cones. Soooo tempting!
Dream Chaser is pointed towards Cameron Lake and a railway swing bridge which is no longer is use, except for the kids jumping off it. The bridge is closed in the winter for snowmobile use.
Tuesday, July 7, 2015
As Dream Chaser exited Fenelon Falls at 8:30 am, Captain Steve maneuvered to avoid the concrete parapets from an old bridge or pier. Then we passed the swing bridge with a narrow opening between the rough stone walls.
We arrived at Rosedale, Lock 35, before 9 am and tied up on the blue line. Rosedale is a friendly little hamlet with great lock attendants. We shared the lock with a 1920’s refurbished 58 ft. wooden boat which was being captained to Midland ON and then taken north to the owner.
You'll never look at a trash can the same again!
From Rosedale, we lead a caravan of three boats across Balsam Lake which was large enough for the wind to generate some nice waves. Balsam Lake is the highest point in the world that a boat can reach from the sea when under its own power. Crossing Balsam Lake, we have felt three mild thuds from under the water.
By 10:30 am, the light sprinkles began, and the front window covers were removed. Captain Steve is tracking an incoming storm and wants the lower helm readied for possible navigation.
At the end of Balsam Lake, we entered a narrow canal, with over hanging trees, and rock shelves below. The canal winds through marshy areas and then turns into rock walls on both sides with very little room to maneuver, much less meet another boat. We met a houseboat in the canal, but they pulled into a little side cove (thank you, captain!). We also passed two guys in a canoe.
The navigational resources for this area say to stay in the channel and don’t wander because of the massive amounts of deadheads lurking below the surface. In spite of our diligence, we heard a few thuds from below.
The Kirkfield lift lock 36, constructed in 1907, is located in the city of Kawartha Lakes, and is the second highest lock in North American. The lock is similar to the Peterborough Lock in that it is a hydraulic lift pan type of lift with a drop of 49 ft to the next river level. The lift was considered quite a technological breakthrough at that time. This is a high point in the waterway system and from here the water flows to Port Severn and Georgian Bay. The red and green navigational buoys change position, at this point, because we are headed back to the big waters of Georgian Bay-so red on the left and green on the right.
By 11:30 am, the Kirkfield Lock was but a memory, and we were anticipating the Pad Thai we were having for lunch.
Canal Lake was created when Grass Creek was flooded, thus, it is a man-made lake with remaining tree stumps on the bottom except for the channel. Deadheads, however, have been known to move around, so, we were vigilant. In spite of our efforts and fairly high water levels, Dream Chaser came up close and personal to four deadheads.
Hole in the Wall Bridge, at end of lake, is an arch shaped bridge built in the early 1900’s. Deadheads tend to collect at the bridge, and even though we stayed dead center, Dream Chaser got another poke from below just a few hundred feet after clearing the bridge.
There is a speed restriction to 6 mph and five manual locks before Lake Simcoe: Bolsover, Lock 37; Talbot Lock 38; Portage Lock 39: Thorah Lock 40; and Gamebidge Lock 41.
Dream Chaser left Canal Lake and entered the Talbot River that cuts so close to the cottages along the shore, that you feel like you’re in people’s back yards. We waved and smiled feeling like we had invaded a bit of their privacy. Off our starboard side is a beautiful golf course, but no golfers due to the light showers and the threat of storm. After a few honks of the boat horn, Swing Bridge 43 swung open for our passage. With waves to the group of people watching Dream Chaser, we passed through. Again, the river takes us through narrow inviting areas, though quiet today, they scream of SUMMER FUN! The cottages each have their docks, decks accented with flowers, and patio chairs just begging to be used.
Onward Dream Chaser cruised to Lock 37, Bolsover, which is the deepest lock on the Trent Severn Waterway with a lift of 22 ft. Heavy construction is happening with the adjacent dam undergoing a BIG redo this summer. Heavy rains hit at 1 pm while transiting the lock and continued for about two hours. "Locking through" is not as much fun when you are wearing full rain gear!
At Talbot, Lock 38, the view has changed to farms and fields (like a drive through the country).
The rain stopped briefly, about 5:30 pm, and we explored the area. The temps have dropped from the high 70’s to about 60. We met our neighbors Clive and Carol who were returning to Peterborough from a concert in Orillia. They had run out of ice, so we stored their steak in our refrigerator overnight. Our dinner was grilled salmon patties and brats along with the baked beans.
The cool breeze is refreshing after the heat and humidity today. Also, very nice to be docked in case of more wet, nasty weather coming through.
Wednesday, July 8, 2015
Portage, Lock 39
After a morning walk, the Captain made breakfast, and we prepped for the day. Of all the locks in this stretch of waterway, Portage Lock, is the best one for overnight. Besides being blissfully quiet, you have the woods, great picnic facilities, and a great view of farmlands.
Today, we have three locks to transit (Lock 39 at Portage, Lock 40 at Thoran, and Lock 41 at Gamebridge), and then we will motor through Lake Simcoe. It is the fourth largest lake in Ontario, 19 miles long, wide and deep, and the water is very clear.
We had asked the lock attendants for better weather, today. They came through with brilliant sunshine, no clouds in the sky, present temps at 60, and a promised mid 70’s by afternoon. Perfect!
We have listened to weather reports and chatted with lock attendants. We have decided to cross.
Most of the lake is private with huge homes and limited parkland, so loopers just tend to cut across straight north to Orillia and Lake Couchiching. Our crossing was a two hour smooth and easy cruise. Lake Simcoe is great for fishing, so if you’re not in a hurry, drop a line on your way across.
After exiting Lake Simcoe, Dream Chaser entered the Atherly Narrows and then motored into the shallow Lake Couchiching. (When heading to Orillia from the Narrows, notice that the markers reverse between Heron island and Couchiching Point because you are inbound to the harbour-so, green to port.)
Dream Chaser was eased into her slot at Port Orillia, secured, and registered at the marina office. After a lunch aboard, it was time to explore Orillia.
The Port of Orillia, known as the “Sunshine City”, was founded in 1866 and is located on the east end of Lake Couchiching. The town developed because of the lumber industry, and it is now a popular vacation town. We walked the brick sidewalks of the historic main streets. Mississaga St. E. begins at the Port of Orillia and runs west. We found lots of fun shops including an antique store, Wilkie's Bakery, and Mariposa Market (an old general store). You can find almost anything you might need: banks, hardware store, a Metro grocery, etc. Restaurants of all types are within a short walking distance. If you're "looping" through the area, check out the schedule for festivals and concerts.
The Opera House has shows throughout the summer. Gordon Lightfoot, a Canadian singer-songwriter and an international folk-rock legend was born in Orillia, ON. Franklin Carmichael, an outstanding Canadian artist, was also from Orillia.
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