It was a gorgeous sunny day, wispy clouds, and temps projected in the 70‘s. With our air-travel bug satisfied, the river began to call us back. So, after several enjoyable days in the Barkley Lake area, we disconnected the power from the dock at Rottgerings Marine, threw off the lines, and pointed our boat into Barkley Lake. This day, Dream Chaser motored five hours (40 miles) from the dock in Barkley Lake (the impounded Cumberland River), through the connecting Barkley Canal, and south through Kentucky Lake to Ginger Cove.
Kentucky Lake is actually a large reservoir created in 1944 as a result of the construction of the Kentucky Dam. It is the largest artificial lake in the U.S. east of the Mississippi River. As we motored south through Kentucky Lake, to our left was the Land Between the Lakes. The LBL is a strip of land about 40 miles long and up to eight miles wide between Barkley Lake and Kentucky Lake. Being one of the nation’s largest inland peninsulas, this recreational area is a boater’s dream with undeveloped shoreline and numerous coves. Supposedly, there is also a herd of elk! We didn’t see the herd, but we did see miles of beautiful wide lake, mostly sandy shores, and thick, rich forests.
Our anchorage for the night was Ginger Cove, a secluded cove with the sound of birds, crickets, and a coyote to welcome us. There are just hints of color in the woods-nothing too dramatic yet, but the fall color is on its way. At 5:30 pm, Mary dropped the anchor in ten feet of water and Steve programmed Drag Queen (our anchor alarm system that alerts us when the boat moves more than our chosen distance of 30 feet). After a dinner salad, a movie, and watching Monday night football, we slept soundly as Drag Queen did its job. Love that marine technology!
Mary:
Meg, one of my looper friends asked me a couple weeks ago if I was getting homesick. After some thought, I realized that I missed seeing family and friends, but I would be OK if I could have wheels for a day or so. Our week break to New England and my jaunts to get provisions seemed to have done the trick.
Tuesday, October 15
Ginger Cove turned out to be a most wonderful, peaceful refuge for our anchorage. As we greeted the day, we noticed that the sky was gray and cloud covered (as predicted), but the cove remained still and peaceful. The only movement we saw this morning was a grey heron who appeared to be guarding his post on a point of shoreline near the entry to the cove. The bird had eyed us as we passed him on our way in to anchor, last night, and he gave us the idea that this was his territory.
We pulled the anchor, motored past “the little guard” standing at the point, and headed into a brisk wind with 1-1 1/2 foot waves on the Tennessee River. For the next 5-6 hours, we motored south, up river with mostly tree-lined shore and periodic scatterings of homes.
Most of the day, our radio system was playing music from Steve’s I-Pad or selections from his new “Classic Rock” CD (he picked up on one of his missions to Best Buy)
It is so peaceful and autopilot is so efficient that Steve is relaxed and periodically nods off while the music plays!
Beginning at about MM (mile marker) 67, the next five miles of water at our starboard was a Tennessee wildlife refuge where 200,00 ducks, 25,000 geese, and 200 eagles arrive in the fall and find protection over the winter. (Does someone count each bird?!)
Periodically, we see huge osprey nests built in the tops of the navigational markers. Once nearly extinct from the use of DDT, they have been re-established and are protected by state and federal laws.
AT MM 78., we see remains of the old L & N Railroad bridge.
Just beyond the bridge is an old, abandoned, cement grain building which rises like a ghost in the river. Most structures were removed before the area was flooded as a result of the Kentucky Dam, but this building withstood demolition attempts, so officials left it.
Our morning bowl of oatmeal was but a memory, so Mary prepared a lunch of salad with chicken, pecans, red onion, avocado, feta cheese, and dressing. We try to eat healthy to make up for the 2” pork chops or platefuls of deep fried seafood or catfish that lead us astray, periodically. Most days, we sit at the upper helm for breakfast and lunch, so we are grateful that our boat has an open upper helm. Eating lunch “up top” with a light breeze and a full view of the lake; it doesn’t get any better than that!
At MM 94, we see Pilot Knob, the highest elevation in West Tennessee, which rises over 200 ft. above the river and is part of the Nathan Bedford Forrest Memorial State Park. Over the next three miles we solemnly passed OVER the town of Johnsonville and the rotting remains of Union boats sunk by Confederate General Nathan Bedford Forrest and the confederate forces! There is a story here, and our minds flash back to the battle that took place 149 years ago (almost to the day!) in this area.
A bit of history:
First of all, who was Nathan Bedford Forrest? At the beginning of the war, Forrest had no military training, but became a great strategist for the Confederacy and shared his wealth of frontier experience. He terrorized the Union generals and was so talented that he went from a private at the beginning of the war to a lieutenant general by the time the war ended. Stories tell that Forrest would suddenly attack the Union forces and then just disappear which infuriated the leaders of the Union forces. Another story tells that Forrest had 30 horses shot out from under him during the Civil War period.
The Battle of Johnsonville was unique in that it was the only time in military history a cavalry force defeated a naval force. The story goes like this...Johnsonville was the location that Confederate General Forrest began his mission to destroy General Sherman’s famous “March to the Sea”. Because General Sherman shipped Union supplies down the Ohio and Mississippi and up the Tennessee to a holding complex at Johnsonville, it grew into a bustling military supply operation. General Forrest knew that if he could destroy this supply depot at Johnsonville, it would keep supplies from General Sherman and hinder the Union advance. So, over about a 30 mile stretch from Paris Landing to Johnsonville, General Forrest stationed 3,000 men and 10 cannons. He also placed confederate soldiers across the river below Pilot Knob and at the right time, his forces opened fire on Johnsonville. The Union forces had cannons and fire power, but the cannons on the ridge were too high to strike the Confederate forces and the guns on the Union boats were aimed too low. The result was 33 Union vessels sunk, two trains destroyed, $6 million of warehoused supplies burned, and 150 Union soldiers captured. General Forrest had two men killed, nine men wounded, and two guns destroyed. General Sherman wanted General Forrest hunted down! This Confederate victory, however, was not enough to change the outcome of the war and Sherman continued his push to Savannah.
About 2 pm, we arrived at Pebble Isle Marina in New Johnsonville, TN, our dockage for the night. After getting Dream Chaser situated, we caught a ride to the Park Visitor Center which provided a film and exhibits on the area. We found that Johnsonville was rebuilt after the destruction from the Civil War and flourished until 1944, at which point, the Kentucky Dam was constructed and Johnsonville disappeared under the flooded river. Originally just a sleepy river landing prior to the Civil War, the growing town of Johnsonville had been named for Andrew Johnson a military governor during the Civil War and the 17th President of the United States following Abraham Lincoln’s assassination. New Johnsonville, about 2 miles from it’s flooded neighbor, was created by residents who wanted to remain in the area.
Wednesday, October 16
Rain began about 11 pm and continued throughout the night. We woke to an overcast sky and drizzling rain. About 7 am, as the skies lightened, Steve grabbed the hose and gave the boat a good scrubbing trying to rid the deck and walls of nasty, gooshy bugs. Boating is not a totally laid back experience!
At 8 am, we dodged raindrops on our way to the marina office for warm cinnamon rolls and coffee. Yum! While enjoying our carb filled breakfast, we chatted with one of the marina owners who filled us in on the local happenings. The courtesy van was available so, we grabbed the keys and headed to New Johnsonville and Camden for provisions and the post office. On the return trip, we took a quick drive through the Johnsonville Historic State Park with its Civil War fortifications, entrenchments, and cemeteries.
Dream Chaser was VERY thirsty, so after filling her tanks (gulp, gulp, gulp!), we headed upstream on the Tennessee River. Very soon the river narrowed and rolling hills joined the scenery. A variety of homes appeared on the rocky cliffs, some impressive two and three story homes, some on pilings, and some RV’s with metal roofs.
At 2:30 pm, Dream Chaser turned up Lick Creek, motored a half mile to a wide part of the creek, and dropped anchor alone in the quiet bay. After dinner, we watched the movie “Remember the Titans", and slept well under a full October moon.
Thursday, October 17
At 7 am, as the sun was rising behind the cloud cover and a mist started to fall, our day began. The boat engines came to life with a rumble. As Steve prepared for the boat’s departure, Mary followed her normal anchor duties of switching on power for the sea water pump and the windlass (the motor that pulls the anchor chain), checking on power to the windlass, raising the anchor with the “up” foot control at the bow, spraying off the chain and anchor which removes the caked mud accumulated from the mucky bottom of the bay, and setting the anchor safety clip. With the anchor stowed, Dream Chaser motored out of Lick Creek winding through a narrow channel about 7 ft. deep and headed to the Tennessee River. Other than a squawking duck, there wasn’t a hint of light or activity as we looked toward the large, beautiful houses that graced the edge of the bay.
Mist rose from the river and off the tree covered hills while water drizzled down our upper helm topper. We watched two sand and gravel company dredgers anchored in the river filling their barges with sand from the river bottom. Near Perryville, TN, we passed under the Albin York Bridge, US 412. As we passed by the Perryville Marina on our starboard side, we noticed the VERY narrow entrance to the marina and were glad that we had anchored out last night.
As the drizzle turned to rain and temps hovered in the low 50’s, we moved below to the warm lower helm of the boat, and had our breakfast of eggs, toast, and steamed greens.
Auto pilot has been an awesome tool for marine navigation, but do we put too much faith in it at times? Who's driving?
At MM 140, we passed an unusual sign signaling the entrance to the Mermaid Marina in Decaturville, TN. Their office is on a floating barge.
We are noticing more fall colors popping out
each day!
We continue to see tree lined banks, more frequent higher rolling hills, a few more fall colors, trailers with metal roofs, and most houses on stilts or elevated at this point in the river. As impressive bluffs meet the river, houses are perched along the edges with awesome views. The area reminds us of the St. Croix River in WI.
Since we left Barkley Lake on Monday morning, the river has been very quiet. We've seen only about five barges on the river and today, we've met only 6 boats. At MM 152.5, we entered one of the sharpest hairpin turns on the Tennessee River which was nine miles long. If we could have cut across overland, it would have been two miles.
About noon with the misty fog still hanging over the river, we enter the passage for Clifton Marina at MM158 and motored into the harbor. As we were tying the ropes at the dock, the sun came out as if to welcome us to town. Oh, the sun felt so wonderful after our days of mist, clouds, and rain. Clifton has been the first town on the river in about 150 miles since the river-town of Paducah. In 1843, Clifton almost became the state capital of TN, but lost by one vote. Also, Clifton is proud of being the home of the novelist, T.S. Stribling.
After docking and paying our fees, we headed for Clifton in the marina courtesy car. We toured the town, enjoyed a catfish special for lunch, and returned to the boat. The afternoon consisted of completing a few projects, a wonderful nap, and a great 1.4 mile walk to stretch out our legs. We visited with fellow AGLCA loopers, Steve and Julie, from Erben Renewal who pulled in and docked next to us.
We have been slowing down and taking time to smell the flowers!
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