Tuesday, October 1
We woke at 7 am to a gentle rocking of waves. After we pulled anchor, we slipped from Angelo's Towhead and entered the channel of the Mississippi River.
With the sun peaking through the heavy cloud cover, we passed under a tall highway bridge, and on to Cairo, IL with Paducah, Kentucky our final destination for tonight. As we passed mile marker zero on the “mighty” Mississippi River, we turned upriver on the Ohio River at MM 981 and headed for Paducah. The Ohio is wider than the Mississippi, and at Cairo, barges lined both banks and double-parked in the middle of the river. We anticipated seeing the 72’s (8 barges wide and 9 barges deep), but Mary was relieved when we didn’t.
Before long, we were facing oncoming, down river tows. We became very busy hailing the tug captains via the marine radio channel 13, asking them advice on our passing. We usually heard “pass on the one” or “one whistle” or “pass on the red (buoy)” which would be port to port. Passing on the starboard side would be “pass on the two” or “two whistles” or “pass on the green (buoy)”. We were told that the whistle system came from the days of steam powered vessels that used whistle signals to avoid collisions because they didn’t have radio communication. Sometimes as we contacted the tow, the captain would give his directive for passing with such a southern twang that neither of us could figure out what he said.
About 8 am, our friends on Sanctuary, a beautiful 45 ft. Tiara, called to let us know that they were unable to get their stainless steel anchor loose from their anchorage and were still in Angelo’s Towhead. In the end, they had to get a diver to work their anchor loose and found that it was wrapped around a tree stump three times. With most of the day gone, they decided to wait and make their run for Paducah on Wednesday. Flexibility is the key because “stuff” happens!
At Olmstead Lock and Dam, we just motored through.
With Lock and Dam 53 ahead of us, Steve called ahead to the lock master to check lock status. The wickets (under water walls) were being raised to form the dam today (due to lowering water levels on the river), but we were told that if we hurried, we would be the last boat to motor over the dam before they closed it off to boat traffic. Once the wickets were in place, all river traffic would need to wait for their turn in the lock which would result in a huge delay. We arrived at Lock and Dam 53, and workers had much of the wall of the dam up, but there was still an opening where the river was rushing through. The lock master instructed us to increase our speed and drive our boat over the ridge of water created by the underwater wickets. What a rush! The river was churning and angry. Steve said to put on our life jackets-which got my attention! We crossed over the “bump”, felt the lift from the rush of water, and thanked the lock master for letting us through. Another new experience!
The workers are busy raising the wicket dam.
Looking down from the top helm as we motored over the lip of the wicket dam.
Looked back at the churning water. Relieved that we were through!
Dream Chaser motored onward passing lots of beautiful scenery and many birds- egrets, ducks, eagles. Twenty plus miles down river was Lock and Dam 52. We waited with two other looper boats for almost three hours before we were given the OK to enter the lock. From what I’ve read about this lock, several hours is typically the wait time.
The plan for our overnight in Paducah was to stay at the 80 ft. city dock, however, nothing was available. A local man, Jeff, happened to be listening to marine radio channel 13 (the towboat channel), and he picked up on the conversation going on between Steve and our other looper friends regarding possible docking. Jeff, knowing the river so well, told Steve where a great anchorage could be located. Further up the channel, behind a towhead, was a perfect quiet channel for anchoring! Jeff had worked on towboats for years and is now a writer for the marine industry. They talked later that evening, and we ended up with a great plan for the rest of the trip down to Florida-the best marinas and suggestions for fuel, etc.. Lucky us!
We over-nighted in a quiet channel outside of Paducah, KY thanks to Jeff!
Wednesday, October 2
We pulled the anchor about 7 am and motored down the Tennessee River. The fog lifted as if there were spirits of the river rising in front of us.
We had to make a choice this morning as to which route to take: the Tennesse River through the Kentucky Lock or the Cumberland River through the Barkley Lock. You take a chance as to how long the wait will be at the locks. We had heard that the wait had been quite long at the Barkley Lock, but the Kentucky Lock had been closed due to maintenance.When Steve called the Kentucky Lock this morning, the Kentucky Lock was opened, and it looked good. We motored for 2 1/2 hours to get to the lock hoping that tugs and barges weren’t lined up already. Yeah! No wait!
We entered the lock and Kentucky Lock and Dam. This is one of the higher locks at 58 feet.
The lock is closed, water is filling the lock, and the boat is being raised.
This is Mary's view of the lock from the boat. You just need to kick back and let the lock fill!
After docking the boat, signing all the required marina papers, and getting a briefing of the marina and services, we began cleaning all the river muck off the boat and headed to the laundry facilities.
Dream Chaser has a washing machine/dryer, but the six loads of laundry are a snap with multiple machines, so we opted to use the marina machines.
We planned to walk to town, but at 2 pm it began pouring, so we took advantage of Patti’s pickup service and got a ride to the small town of Grand Rivers. After looking around town and checking out the little shops, we headed over to eat dinner at Patti’s 1880’s Settlement. Patti’s brochure brags “350,000 meals served in a town of 350!” They are famous for their 2” pork chops, warm bread (baked in a clay pot) with strawberry butter, and yummy desserts. Along with the restaurant are gift shops, a miniature golf course, a rock climbing wall, a remote control boat pond, a wedding chapel, and an amazing Christmas lighting display!
After dinner, we walked through town along a walkway to Lighthouse Landing Resort on Kentucky Lake and watched a breathtaking sunset. A beautiful way to end the day!
Thursday, October 4Today at 9 am, we borrowed the GTB courtesy van, took a run to the Paducah airport, and picked up a rental car. Steve did errands on the way back to the marina, and Mary took the rental car for the day and ran errands near Paducah. So nice to have wheels!
Mary visited the National Quilt Museum in Paducah. Words can’t describe the variety, colors, complexity, and detail in these hanging works of art. Many of the masterpieces had won impressive awards. One section of the museum had quilts from the mid to late 1800’s on display with a brief story about each one. Every April, over 30,000 people visit Paducah for Quilt Week. Don’t miss it if you’re in the area. Would loved to have included some pictures of these amazing quilts, but photography was not permitted.
Steve worked on boat projects and an enormous amount of cleaning on the outside of the boat. He also chatted with a fellow looper regarding Active Captive and how it all works! Check that one off the list.
At 5pm, GTB invited all the AGLCA loopers to a BBQ. After a short prayer of thanks, we loaded our plates with BBQ pork, beef, and mutton (or lamb), potato salad, baked beans, cole slaw, a variety of salads, and desserts. Beer, pop, and water. It was a great time to reconnect with loopers that we had met along the way and become acquainted with new loopers. We were excited to meet a couple that are new loopers from Cushing, Minnesota!
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