The Return Trip

Thursday, March 27, 2014
At 6:30 am before sunrise, Dream Chaser pulled away from the dock at Black Sound Marina bound for Mangrove Cay.  After motoring for 11 hours in 3 ft. gentle following seas, we anchored in Mangrove Cay (a tiny mangrove island).  This cay is a western overnight anchoring point for some boats traveling to and from the Bahamas  It gives some protection from winds out of the east.   After we anchored, the winds and waves changed direction creating not the most desirable conditions for the overnight.  Tired from a long day of motoring, we were hoping the stiff wind and continuous waves will calm during the night.  We are sharing the anchorage with a 80 ft. trawler who due to a deeper draft is anchored farther from shore and wind protection.  The large boat bobbed from the continuous wave action.  Around midnight, when it was high tide, the waves seemed to lessen and sleep finally came.

 Friday, March 28, 2014

At dawn, Dream Chaser was on her way to West End, Grand Bahama Island.  The sun was rising as we pulled anchor,  headed west, and left our trawler friends to catch up on their sleep.

Our four hour journey to West End was fairly pleasant with a stiff wind and 4 ft. waves at our stern.  After spending so many hours on a moving boat, we were happy to be on land for a while.  The picture above is of Old Bahama Bay Marina where we were docked for the night.  The wind has continued with light rain sprinkles on and off.  A walk was in order, so off we went about a mile to the settlement (village).  The area appeared very depressed and no stores to mention, but we enjoyed the exercise and met a few locals along the way.   We were shown how they clean the conch to ready it for market.  The Bahamians are very quick to tell you how "healthy" conch is and "how it helps you".  This lady was eating a raw part of each conch as it was cleaned.  Yum?

Later on, we stopped to admire a pile of conch shells along the beach and were given two nice shells and a hermit crab shell from these very friendly locals.

                                      This banyan tree was quite impressive!

                           This little guy kept an eye on Dream Chaser while we were in town.

Dinner tonight was at Lil T's, a local liquor store/eating establishment.  Some of us piled into the back of a pick up truck while others biked into the village.  We chatted with six other couples (from Quebec, Newfoundland, Venezuela, and the states), and as the sun began to set, the conch horn was blown.  After enjoying a tasty BBQ pork meal, the music began outside, dancers began jiving, and people stood in line to do the Limbo!

(above) This is Dream Chaser’s slip until 2 am when we pull lines and head into the Atlantic Ocean and back to Florida.  The plan was to have a southeast wind on the stern for about four hours, and then it was predicted to turn to the south hitting us again on the stern as we make our way north to Ft. Pierce.  The wind changes in a clockwise direction, and we need to be in Florida before it comes out of the north.  When the wind out of the north combines with the gulf current from the south, you don't want to be crossing the Atlantic Ocean!

Saturday, March 29, 2014 
At 2 am in pitch blackness, Dream Chaser pulled out from Old Bahama Bay Marina, Grand Bahama and pointed her bow toward Ft. Pierce, FL.  The winds were out of the SE at 12-16 mph and the waves were 1-2 ft.  Not bad at all.  Mary's Plan 1 for the crossing:  CONCENTRATE ON THE SKYLINE TO AVOID SEASICKNESS didn't work since it was dark, but sitting in the upper helm worked out fine with the fresh air blowing in our faces.  As time passed, the winds and waves began to increase in strength and size.
About half way across on our journey to the U.S., still in darkness, the winds shifted to SW and waves grew to 4-6 ft. and the rollers turned 6-10 ft.  The stabilizers never stopped to rest- there was no time.  The friendly lights of a freighter and then a cruise ship were a welcomed sight in the dark night.  We passed a sailboat seeing only its dim little navigational light atop bobbing in the darkness and were glad for the company.  However, we could only image how miserable these boaters had to be from being bounced around by a forceful ocean like a toy boat in the bathtub.  The captain of this sailboat did not have AIS (Automatic Identification System) so, he didn't know if we were a fishing boat or a multi-ton freighter.  He sounded a bit frazzled as we conversed over the marine radio. We reassured him that we knew he was there, and we would pass by allowing for plenty of space.
Steve was running on adrenaline and didn't want any conversation while he navigated.  So, hearing something crash downstairs, Mary made her way down, clinging to the ladder, and into the salon.  We had secured items inside before the trip, but now she took it to the next level-bracing and jamming things together.  That done, Mary decided to try and get some rest making a nice bed on the salon bench sofa and had almost drifted off, when in an instant, she was flipped face down on the floor from the jolt of a huge wave.  The table was tossed on its side and items were thrown everywhere.   So much for Mary's Plan 2: SLEEP MY WAY ACROSS THE ATLANTIC-WAKE UP WHEN ITS OVER!
Now this adventure wasn't like following Steve down a double black diamond run at Vail-Duh!  Most of us, limited skill skiers, have learned and know better than to walk into that situation.  This was different.  We had been following trusted, multiple reports on predicted wave and wind conditions for days which indicated great conditions for crossing.  There were several boats leaving a little later in the day for the states, so it was a decision with much input.  However, Mother Nature had other plans and the winds shifted to out of the SW and wave action increased by 25% (bigger, tougher, uncomfortable)!
Our plans for a Ft. Pierce port stop were adjusted by the captain, and we headed to Port St. Lucie (closer), but still three hours away.  We will spare you the details of those next three hours, but we came to a consensus that flying into the Bahamas and, perhaps, renting a boat is probably a much better idea, for us, if and when we return.  The Bahamas are truly an experience and beautiful.
At 11:30 am, Dream Chaser entered the inlet at Port Lucie, and we were instantly grateful for the calm waters.  We hadn't had anything to eat or drink since 2 am, so we ate breakfast as we made our way up the ICW.  Nick phoned Steve, during our motoring, and made him aware of storms coming into the area, so Steve kicked up the speed by 4 mph (that's a lot for Dream Chaser).  At about 2:30 pm, Dream Chaser slid into a dock at Pelican Yacht Club in Ft. Pierce, FL.  After registering at the marina, spraying down the boat, and starting some washing, we took a long nap while soaking rains began to fall from the dark skies.  We are very thankful for a safe return!

The Abacos & Return to Florida

Tuesday, March 25, 2014
The alarm went off at 5:30 am.  Today, Nick flies home, and we are hoping to leave for Green Turtle Cay if the weather looks OK.  Finally at 10 am, the captain gave the thumbs up, and we headed out with plans to spend the next two nights at Black Sound Marina.  Under cloudy skies, we bid farewell to the Jib Room and Marsh Harbour Marina as we begin our return trip to Florida.

We listened to the weather carefully this morning because we must, again, pass through “The Whale” which can get beyond nasty!  Visualize an oval with Grand Bahama Island forming the west side and the smaller islands forming the east side.  The Sea of Abaco is in the middle.  Cutting across the middle of this sea (east and west) are reefs which prevent navigation.  So, boats must go out into the ocean through a “cut” between smaller islands, follow Whale Cay on the ocean side, and then return into the Sea of Abaco.  The Whale Cut or Passage can get extremely turbulent and sometimes days go by before its passable. 
During our passage through the cut, we had very heavy winds (25-30 mph) from the west.  Before, during, and after The Whale, Dream Chaser fought 2-4 ft. chop with 6-7 ft. rollers up to 10 ft.  Rather like riding a wild horse!  Steve found it interesting to navigate this passage coming from the east, but interesting wasn’t the word Mary had in mind. The spray off the bow showered us with salt water as we sat in the upper helm.  We were very relieved to get through The Whale before the bad weather hits in a few hours and is predicted to last for a few days.  After the storm passes, it will take a few days for the ocean to calm down.  We will wait out the bad weather at the smaller islands and when the calm arrives, we plan to motor back to Florida.  Boat captains are current on the weather everyday even when docked.  Our decisions for navigation and trip planning revolve around the weather.  If it’s nasty, you don’t want to go out into the sea!

About 1:30 pm, we arrived at Black Sound Marina in Green Turtle Cay.   With such a strong west wind blowing, docking was challenging, but before long Dream Chaser was securely tied.
About 2 pm, a huge $7 million 85' catamaran, HAYFU II, pulled in and docked nearby.  We think the owner is the president of a LARGE billboard company in the U.S. who loves to bone fish.  This catamaran is really something!

About 3 pm, the rains came and it rained on and off until about 4:30 pm.
About 6 pm, we took a nice walk through the village of New Plymouth.  The cay was named after an abundance of green turtles that inhabited the area.  The architecture is unique in the Bahamas with steep pitched roofs which originated with settlers from New England.  Love the beautiful flowers!

We picked Two Shorty’s for dinner- a new spot we hadn't tried.  There is a menu posted to the right of the order window, you place your order, and then eat outside on the covered patio. Great conch, great prices,  nice people!

 

 

Steve is ordering our conch dinners at Two Shorty's!

 New Plymouth is one of the quaint villages that we have really enjoyed, and we are happy to spend a few days here while the weather improves.  With most basic services available, this would be a great choice for a warm get away spot!  We will miss these beautiful evenings and gorgeous sunsets!

Wednesday, March 25, 2014
The wind and tide kept Dream Chaser moving around last night, but we did get some sleep.  About 2 am, Mary woke to a muffled conversation with a lady who was frantic. The boat docked next to us had left their marine radio on all night.  Apparently, a couple had been anchored near White Sound, towards the northern end of the island, and their boat had pulled free (due to strong winds) and had grounded near shore.  The wife was on the radio requesting help from some locals.  There is no Coast Guard here.  In fact, we have only seen two Bahamian policemen in two weeks.  We aren't sure what happened with the boat, but it sounded like they got some type of assistance.  It took us awhile to get back to sleep, though.
We woke to continued 20-25 mph winds, but the sun was peeking out.  High temps will be mid 70's today, and people are complaining that it is so cold.  It's all relative.  We are still hearing reports of cold weather in the states.
It's a day to relax, take final walks through the village, and do some prepping for the crossing to Florida.

Our path from the marina to the village took us along white picket fences...past some closed up houses (with some great untold stories)...

                       

                                       ...and along the bay to the far side by the village.
 In the village, we saw the fishing boat (below) unloading cargo, so we headed over to check it out.
This boat fishes the Sea of Abaco for spiny lobster.  They used to get grouper, but without government limits enforced, grouper has become fished out.   However, laws regarding bone fishing are enforced.  There are nine live aboard workers, and they are out at sea for two weeks at a time.  The arms on the sides of the boat are stabilizers that drop down 15 ft. into the water.

 Steve tried to deal for some spiny lobsters, but he ended up having to go to a little seafood store.

              This is one of the ferries that takes people back and forth between the nearby islands.

In the Bahamas, provisions are expensive and there are no inexpensive eating establishments.  Everything is about twice the cost of what it is in the states, except dockage of the boat. We have a good supply of groceries, so we eat many of our meals on Dream Chaser. At one of the little grocery stores, we found conch salad and little homemade coconut and pineapple pies.  They usually have homemade coconut bread, but it is all gone this morning.  A family with two boys who are visiting the area came into the store and bought all she had.  The boys like this coconut bread so much, that they sat in chairs by the checkout counter and each devoured a loaf on the spot!

We stepped into St. Peter's Anglican Church which was established in 1879 and rebuilt in 2009 (due to hurricanes and storms).   Notice the beautiful stained glass windows.

       This is the old, old gaol (jail).  Now used for storage- apparently of Christmas decorations.

We strolled most of the little streets, and then it was time for lunch and, perhaps, a nap.

It's 4:30 pm, the sun is shining brightly and the clouds are puffy and high in the sky. We plan to leave tomorrow and will miss the warmth of the people, the wonderful weather, and the breathtaking beauty of the area.  We wonder if New Plymouth will be like this if and when we return to the Green Turtle Cay.  The captain wonders if the admiral is ready for a last walk through the village.  So, off we go.  Wouldn't it be wonderful if there was a way to capture the essence of this area?!  The pictures we have taken seem to lack in projecting the rhythm of the island, but we have tried.
On the way to the village is Pineapples, a favorite local bar/restaurant, located at the end of a very rough road where you are rewarded with a beautiful view.

Pineapples is a very popular place to gather with friends, blow the conch horn, and watch the sun set.

We have prepped the boat, dinner is over, showers have been taken, and the night is setting in.  The plan is to depart by 6 am, motor all day, and anchor at Great Sale Cay or Mangrove Cay tomorrow night. 

The Abacos: Man-O-War Cay, Hope Town, Marsh Harbour

Friday, March 21, 2014
Man-O-War Cay
We are still at Man-O-War Marina, and it’s another beautiful sunny morning with high clouds and temps in the 80‘s.
Nick had an opportunity to go fishing, today, with four guys in their 70’s in a boat called “The Bimini Twist” which was docked next to us in the marina.  This boat is an immaculate 42’ Duffy Sport Fisherman that is meticulously clean and at the end of the day, cleaned again- most hospitals could only dream of being that clean.  Steve says these four guys are “living the dream”!  Most of the year, they hunt in Manitoba and boat in the Chesapeake Bay area, and then come here to Man-O-War (live on the boat) and fish.  The fishermen left at 8:30 am to catch the big ones!

This morning, on our walk down the little village lanes, we were entertained by birds singing, doves cooing, lambs baaing, and baby chicks chirping.  We walked by the Bahamian's national tree, a Lignum Vitae (see below), an interesting tree.  Today, we learned that the village was named after the Man-O-War bird which is a frigate bird, similar to a pelican.

We found the second sandy beach farther south on the Atlantic side of the island and walked 1/2 mile in the sand.  The sky took on a powdery grey blue shade and the water was light and dark shades of aquamarine.

On our way back to the village, we found Lola’s Bakery (located in her home) and picked up a loaf of bread and cinnamon rolls for Nick's fishermen friends. Lola and her husband, have been married for 60 years and have live on this island for 52 years.  (Their son is the senator for Abacos) After we accepted the invitation to try out their new porch swing,  we stayed and chatted about everything:  their family, work, faith, fishing, cats, and the village.  The Sawyers are sweet people with a very strong faith.  This is the part of our journey that we enjoy the most-meeting the local people and hearing their stories.

We went for a ride in our dinghy, Little Chaser, checking out the shallow water areas and all the interesting boats.  We cruised by Albury's Sail (Canvas) Shop (shown below) and the boat building shops.  Over 60 years ago, Norman Albury was the local sail maker and his wife began making small bags from the leftover pieces of canvas.  It has remained a family business for three generations and they are still stitching!

We found two beautiful beaches on the Atlantic side...neither one was walkable, right now, as the tide was crashing in.   But...a person could sit and relax by the hour just listening to the waves washing in.

Some people think the dinghy is for fooling around...

other people enjoy the peace and serenity of the moment...even in a dinghy.

Nick and his fishermen friends returned to the marina dock about 2 pm. (after being 8 miles off shore) and celebrated their catch of thirteen Dorado (Mahi-Mahi) each weighing between 15 and 50 lbs.   Nick had caught five Dorado and was ecstatic!

                                      

    Captain Gene Crockett and Nick are showing off his fish!

Under the tiki hut at the marina, a local Bahamian was paid to clean half the catch, and he also received part of the fish.

The afternoon passed quickly with late lunch, projects, and walks to the village.  We, also, ran into owners of an Ocean Alexander similar to ours, and we gave them a tour of Dream Chaser.  Harvey and Mary Helen, AGLCA loopers, have Lollygagger, a 42' O.A. in Virginia and are in the Bahamas on their sailboat, Gone Away.  It's always fun to compare notes with other O.A. owners.

Tonight, our appetizer was cracked conch from the Dock and Dine Restaurant at the marina.  Grilled Mahi-Mahi, sweet potatoes, and asparagus were served aboard Dream Chaser followed by a trip to the ice cream store for dessert. Mmm!  Coconut pineapple ice cream just seems to taste better while sitting next to a palm tree and watching the sun set.

Saturday, March 22, 2014
After a wonderful restful night, we awoke to bright sunshine, light clouds, and 70’s with 80’s predicted for today.  Oatmeal and omelets were on the breakfast menu.
About 7:30 am, the engines were started, lines were untied, and Dream Chaser slid out of her slip at Man-O-War Marina with Little Chaser, our dinghy, tied on behind.  As we entered Abaco Bay, we experienced light choppy waters with 5-10 mph winds. Our destination is Hope Town on Elbow Cay about four miles away. 

As we neared the island, we saw the famous landmark, the Elbow Cay Reef Lighthouse.  Elbow Cay has one of few remaining manned lighthouses in the Bahamas and is a destination for photographers.  The historic red and white candy striped lighthouse, built in 1863 and rebuilt in 1934, uses a Fresnel lens floating in a bath of mercury that focuses, magnifies, and directs the light from a kerosene vapor lamp outward, so it is visible up to 20 miles. 
Prior to the construction of the lighthouse, there would be one wreck (ships hitting reefs or shoals) per month in the Hope Town area.  During the building of the lighthouse, the local residents were not pleased with it being located in the Hope Town area.  They created many obstacles during its construction such as:  refusing to supply fresh water to crew and sinking vessels with building materials, at night.  Once the lighthouse was operating, it curtailed much of the wrecking (salvaging goods) for Hope Town.

Our dockage for tonight is at Lighthouse Marina which is located on the harbor at the base of the famous lighthouse.  Dream Chaser nosed into her slip, lines were secured, paperwork was completed, and we were off to visit the most photographed lighthouse in the Abacos.  The light keeper welcomes visitors, so up we climbed the 101 steps to the lantern.  The tower is 89 ft. tall.  The views were stunning!

                                    Dream Chaser is in her slip. (bottom & middle of picture)

Great views from the top of the lighthouse!

                                 What goes up these lighthouse steps...must go down-all 101!

Back at the boat, we jumped into our dingy and headed for the village.  Hope Town is a lovely quiet village on Elbow Cay.  The island, located in the hub of the Abaco Islands, is about 4.5 miles long and 1080 yards at its widest point.  Founded by Loyalists in 1785, the village is located between a beautiful sandy beach and the harbor.  Up until about 40 years ago, it had been fairly isolated from the world, and it has preserved much of its distinct character.  Many of the local surnames date back from generations of boat builders and seafarers.  Standing on the main street, you feel that you are in a New England fishing village set in the tropics!  The streets are 8 ft. wide, and no cars are allowed in the village.  Many of the charming old houses, with intricate open work and lovely hand carved signs and edging, have been restored.  Tropical trees and flowers thrive everywhere.  The people are very friendly, and there are cute shops like Iggy Biggy, Edith’s Straw Market, and the Sugar Shack. 

 

                                                 Their road signs are somewhat primitive!
Wyanni Malone Historical Museum has everything from pirate, shell, and model sailboat displays to manuscripts, photographs, antiques, and artifacts from shipwrecks.  The Widow Malone, a Tory sympathizer on England’s side during the Revolutionary War,  left S. Carolina after the war ended.  She brought her four children and joined others from the East Coast to settle on Elbow Cay.  In this museum, we learned “Why a Ship Is Called a She”.  (must have been written by a man)

“A ship is called “a she” because there is always a great deal of bustle around her;
   there is a usually a gang of men about, she has a waist and stays;
   it takes a lot of paint to keep her good looking;
   it is not the initial expense that breaks you, it is the up keep;
   she can be all decked out; it takes an experienced man to handle her correctly;
   and without a man at the helm, she is absolutely uncontrollable.
   She shows her topsides, hides her bottom end, and
   when coming into port always heads for the buoys.”

Hope Town has had its share of struggles.  In 1850 a cholera epidemic claimed 1/3 the islands inhabitants (about 100 people).  In 1866, a powerful hurricane swept the entire island chain.  From 1926-32, they dealt with three destructive hurricanes and the economic depression.  In 1938, a blight killed 99% of the sponge beds where they had harvested sponges for 70 years.  In 1965, Hurricane Betsy passed directly over the village and lasted for three days with 120 mph winds and rain.

For lunch, we walked about a mile down the island to “On Da Beach”, a little outdoor spot with a breathtaking view of the powdery pink sandy beach and the Atlantic Ocean.  The beach is protected by an extensive off shore reef. Oh! Another beach to walk!

 

We saw lots of bikes and golf carts zooming outside the village and considered renting a golf cart to see more of the island, but it has been a busy weekend, and there were NO carts available.  So, we walked the town, checked out more of the shops.  Vernon’s slogan at the Upper Crust Bakery is “Let Them Eat Key Lime Pie!”, but we stopped for ice cream at the Sugar Shack!  Mmmmm!

This afternoon, we took a dinghy ride around the harbor and hailed a few friends we have met along the way that are moored nearby.

                                                       The harbor is full of activity.

Children are taught how to run boats early down here.  Do you see trouble about to happen?

As darkness fell, the lighthouse on shore began to rotate sending its warning beams across the harbor and Atlantic Ocean.  We have tried all day to make a phone call, but the phones are out in all the Bahama Islands, including Nassau!  After a fish and chicken dinner via the galley of Dream Chaser, we settled in and listened to a band playing great tunes in restaurant across the harbor.

Sunday, March 23, 2014
Hope Town, Man-O-War, Marshall Harbour
The rains came twice in the night only lasting a few minutes, but released a deluge of water. The alarm went off at 6:15 am, the engines started, and 30 minutes later Dream Chaser was making her way across the bay from Hope Town to the village of Man-O-War.

The sun was peeking through the clouds and the temps were heading to 84.  We were to meet a fishing guide at the marina, but he didn't show up.  So... After gearing up for our own adventure at sea, Dream Chaser headed through a narrow opening in the breakers and out to the deep blue sea of the Atlantic. The view was breathtaking!
We had a fantastic day of fishing, in spite of the 1-2 ft. waves and 5-10 ft. rollers.  A sea turtle and a few pods of dolphins (70 or more) swam along with us for awhile as we motored farther from shore and the reef.  It is still so exciting to see these strong creatures swim and jump along side the boat.  Nick set the rods, told us how to read the water for fish, and we helped him pull in three beautiful Dorado (Mahi-Mahi).

                                   

                                       Even the captain left his post to help reel in the catch.

With two screams of "Fish On", the reserves were called into action.  Mary was reeling in the biggest Dorado (for awhile), in the picture above.  What a fight and what a rush!

The biggest Dorado was around 45-50 lbs. and REALLY fought!  If I told you where we caught them and how we read the waters to find them, Captain Gene would be extremely upset with us!  Nick went fishing with Captain Gene and his group a few days ago and learned a lot of tricks and techniques- not to be shared with anyone!   It was a fabulous day at sea!!!

Nick has a great understanding of fishing techniques and was happy that we had used Dream Chaser to find today's catch.  On the dinner menu...grilled Mahi-Mahi...

As we were sitting on the patio by the marina office using the Internet, we heard conch horns being blown and realized that sunset was being celebrated.  The day has flown by!
It was a great day in Paradise!

Monday, March 24, 2014
Marshall Harbour
The rain began falling lightly, during the night, followed by 4-5 minutes of heavy rain.  If you weren’t awakened by the rain, the one BIG clap of thunder would have guaranteed you were awake.
The morning broke with bright sun to a very quiet harbor.   We enjoyed a breakfast of pancakes, eggs, bacon, and coffee, on board.   The Jib Room was open for drinks and free Internet, so we caught up with mail and news.  It was, also, a good day for catching up on laundry and boat projects.  With the intense sun, temps in the 80's, and high humidity, the air was on in Dream Chaser through the after noon.  The cool air felt good after all the sun we experienced yesterday.
The dinghy ride across the harbor brought us close to the town of Marsh Habour, and we walked to  Snappa's, a tropical waterfront spot for lunch.  Great food and great view!  Nick is prepping to fly out tomorrow morning and head home.  It has been lots of fun having him join us on Dream Chaser and guide us fishing.  There will definitely be fish for dinner tonight!