The Abacos: Marsh Harbor, Man-O-War

Monday, March 17, 2014
Guana Cay to Marsh Harbor
After a good night’s sleep, the day started about 5:30 am with coffee, breakfast, and catch up on the Internet and projects.  We plan to leave Guana Cay, today, and head to Marsh Harbor about 10 miles away.   Highs are predicted in the high 70‘s and we’re looking forward to a corn beef and cabbage dinner that we’ve heard about.  Wearin’ the Green ‘cause it’s St. Patrick’s Day!

           Hard to leave, but more to be seen and experienced.

We have really enjoyed Orchid Marina in Guana Cay, but Dream Chaser is ready to move on.
Winds were stiff from the south with 1 ft waves motoring from Guana Cay to Great Abaco Island.  As we arrived at Marsh Harbor Marina on Pelican Shores about 10:30 am, we shared the harbor with heavy traffic:  speedboats, yachts, sailboats both sailing an anchored, fishing boats, and dinghies!  In spite of a strong wind, Steve eased Dream Chaser into a fairly protected slip about eight boats in from the end of the dock.  We were happy for this peaceful setting as there may be a storm coming in later today.
A little history...In the late 1700’s, Marsh Harbor was established by Loyalists who were dissidents from the original colony at Carleton, but life was difficult and they were extremely poor.  From about 1850 to early 1900’s when sponging and shipbuilding were peaking, it became a prosperous settlement, but after WWI the economy collapsed.  With stimulus programs initiated in the 1950’s, agriculture and tourism turned the economy around.  Today, this area is involved in eco-tourism; tourist come to enjoy nature instead of casinos!  Marsh Harbor, being the largest community in the Abacos with over 6,000 people, has many services available.  We will have options for provisioning with many stores & restaurants, and this town has the largest airport in the Abacos. 

After check-in at at the marina, Steve sprayed the boat to remove the salt build up and Mary worked inside on lunch and projects.  We have just heard that Nick, our son, is flying into Marsh Harbor on Wednesday to join us for about a week.  Nick just loves this warm weather, and fishing is on his to-do list.
At 5:30 pm, people were Wearin’ the Green at the Jib Room Restaurant and celebrating St. Patrick's Day with a boater’s potluck including corn beef and cabbage!  Our green salad fit right in!  The Jib Room at the marina is known for its BBQ’s on Wed and Sat nights when the music gets turned up and and the dancing begins.  But tonight, the Jib Room was only for the group of about 30 local boaters and was it a FEAST!

It was a great opportunity to connect with other boaters and hear their stories- fascinating stories of what brought them to the Bahamas.  One looper couple came to the Bahamas years ago from Toronto and never left; they are half-loopers (half way around the loop and intend to finish someday).  We met one boating couple that lived on the same lake north of NYC as our good friends in NY.  John from Fresh Ayer who was walking the docks about 9 pm, stopped by to talk.  He was from Superior, WI and has sailed the Apostle Islands for years.  He knew the previous owner of our boat, Dream Chaser.  Small world!

Tuesday, March 18, 2014
Marsh Harbor and drive south to Little Harbour.
Today was very warm in the 80's and humid until a rain hit about 2 pm and cooled everything down.  This morning, we walked 200 yards south of our marina to the sandy beach at Mermaid Reef, a very popular snorkeling area with huge numbers of fish.

Just behind Steve is a white sign, and the fish gather at the reef located near this marker.  They say not to put any fish food in your pockets unless you want the fish to swim into your pants!  Cool!
Just passed the beach is a little local store known for its frozen seafood, and we eyed the lobster!
On our walk back to the marina,we noticed a road sign (see below)...just a touch of Bahamian humor!

About 3 pm, we hopped in a rental car and headed out to explore and took the only road that goes to the south end of this island of Great Abaco.  On the way, we stopped at an intersection with Marsh Harbour's only stoplight in town-it's the only stoplight in the entire Abaco Islands! Driving south, we visited Little Harbor, a quaint little secluded harbor (with a 60's feel) and Pete's Pub right on the beach (see below).  It was too late for lunch and too early for dinner, so we didn't stop to eat, but what a funky place! 

We planned to visit the art gallery, but we were disappointed because they had closed early.  This is the location of Johnson's Bronze Art Foundry.  Further south in Abaco National Park is the major habitat of the Bahama Parrot.  Blue holes (underwater sinkholes with a blue color in their surface water) are also found to the south mostly along the coast, but we found one near the road, today. We drove through the little town of Cherokee, but not much was happening, so we returned to Marsh Harbour to see the town while it was still daylight.  Along the way, we stopped at Abaco Neem, a store that sells alternative preventative medicinal products.  Years ago seeds from the Neem tree were brought over from India, planted, and the Abaco Neem Farm was started south of Marsh Harbour.  There are reports as to it`s amazing healing powers.
After popping in and out of a few shops in town and picking up fresh produce at Maxwells (a large grocery store), we stopped at Jamie's, a little hole in the wall restaurant, for authentic Bahamian cooking.  Yum!  On the true Bahamian menu, first you choose a main protein: fish, shrimp, calamari, lobster, cracked conch, or chicken and this always comes with rice and Bahamian peas.  Then you choose three other sides:  potato salad, macaroni, cole slaw, mixed veggies, salad, baked potato, or plantain.  Most servings are huge and full of favor, so we share one.

Wednesday, March 19, 2014
Today, we took the rental car north on S.C. Bootle Highway to Treasure Cay and then continued to the end of the road through Coopers Town, Fox Town, and Crown Haven.  There were a few pretty views, but the settlements north of Treasure Cay were very small with very little happening.  Many of the buildings were for sale, closed, or the building had been stopped part way, and we found very little of interest.  Treasure Cay, however, was an interesting resort atmosphere, more upbeat and inviting.  Abaco Ceramics is located near town, and we stopped by to check it out.  Karen McIntosh (below) is the owner/designer and makes one of a kind creations.  Mary took two of Karen's "touches of paradise" back to the boat!

About 5 pm, we picked our son, Nick, up at the Treasure Cay Airport and headed back to Dream Chaser.  Nick will be enjoying the warmth and checking out the fishing for about a week.
Tonight is the BBQ ribs, chicken, or fish meal at the marina followed by “Rake and Scrape”  and limbo.  This is an EVENT, and reservations are necessary.  Rake and Scrape is the music of the Bahamas with roots in Cat Island.  It is a traditional style of folk music performed using a handsaw and sometimes drums. Slaves, who were brought with the Loyalists, created instruments with whatever was available to them which mimicked the sound of instruments they were familiar with in Africa.  Tonight at the BBQ, they played the maracas and scraped the carpenters saw.  Locals have a desire to preserve their deeply rooted heritage, and were eager to have us join them.   Since it was a week night, the party wrapped up about 10 pm.

Thursday, March 20, 2014
Marsh Harbour to Man-O-War Cay
The sun was up and beckoning when we crawled out of bed at 7 am.  After a quick breakfast and some Internet business, we prepped for the crossing to Man O War Cay.  Laundry was done, the water tank filled (water sources are limited and expensive), the bait fish is in the cooler, Nick's on board, and Dream Chaser's ready.
We motored out of Marsh Harbour and 30 minutes later were nearing Man-O-War Marina.  We lowered the dinghy, and Nick drove it into the harbor behind us.   Now, our dinghy is down and can be used for exploring the area and fishing.

A bit of history...Man-O-War was founded in the 1820's.  Benjamin Archer, a Loyalist, and his daughter, Eleanor, bought 60 acres of farm land on the island.   According to the story, Norman Albury wrecked his boat off shore, met Eleanor, fell in love, stayed on the cay, married her, and they had 13 children.  They were known as Pappy Ben and Mammy Nellie to local residents.  In 1977, 230 of the 235 Bahamian residents were descendants of Ben and Nellie! 
Dream Chaser slid into slip 25 at Man-O-War Marina, ropes were secured, and registration completed at the office.  Electricity and water are metered, but the strong Internet and cable TV are free.
Man-O-War Cay is a lovely island (about 2 miles long) with lovely beaches, so after lunch we headed out to explore.  This quaint little town has pastel painted New England style cottages with white picket fences on narrow streets that are used mostly for walking, motorbikes, and golf carts.

 

Notice the conch shells lined up next to the fence.  Beautiful conch shells are everywhere!

The paths are lovely, lined with coconut palms, orange trees, or sea grapes.   We have been looking forward to visiting this cay because it is said to be the most interesting in the Bahamas with fascinating people who are descendants from Loyalists with a strong faith.  They are affiliated with the Brethren Church. This island is dry, meaning no liquor is sold at stores or restaurants, cigarettes are not sold, and scanty clothing is not acceptable.  They are a long-standing boat building community which to this day builds fiberglass fishing boats (Willard Albury) and small wooden dinghies (Joe Albury).  On Sundays, everything is closed!
We started exploring at the Sail Shop, located at the end of the street, a unique stop where bags, yachting jackets, and other canvas items are still made from canvas scraps on the premises by Uncle Norman Albury’s family.

We found beautifully crafted items and chatted with the ladies at work behind the sewing machines.  Walking the main street we passed Edwin's boatyard and Albury Brothers Boatbuilding, we felt like we were in a New England fishing village from years gone by.  We visited the cute little shops, but could not get into the museum.  The Man-O-War Heritage Museum is filled with historical artifacts, family treasures, photos, clothing, furniture, and boat building items, but it had closed one hour earlier and will not open again until Saturday-so we missed it.
But, we found the white sandy beach (Atlantic side) a few blocks away, and beaches never close!

Loved the sunset from the upper helm, tonight!