Man-O-War Cay
We are still at Man-O-War Marina, and it’s another beautiful sunny morning with high clouds and temps in the 80‘s.
Nick had an opportunity to go fishing, today, with four guys in their 70’s in a boat called “The Bimini Twist” which was docked next to us in the marina. This boat is an immaculate 42’ Duffy Sport Fisherman that is meticulously clean and at the end of the day, cleaned again- most hospitals could only dream of being that clean. Steve says these four guys are “living the dream”! Most of the year, they hunt in Manitoba and boat in the Chesapeake Bay area, and then come here to Man-O-War (live on the boat) and fish. The fishermen left at 8:30 am to catch the big ones!
This morning, on our walk down the little village lanes, we were entertained by birds singing, doves cooing, lambs baaing, and baby chicks chirping. We walked by the Bahamian's national tree, a Lignum Vitae (see below), an interesting tree. Today, we learned that the village was named after the Man-O-War bird which is a frigate bird, similar to a pelican.
We found the second sandy beach farther south on the Atlantic side of the island and walked 1/2 mile in the sand. The sky took on a powdery grey blue shade and the water was light and dark shades of aquamarine.
On our way back to the village, we found Lola’s Bakery (located in her home) and picked up a loaf of bread and cinnamon rolls for Nick's fishermen friends. Lola and her husband, have been married for 60 years and have live on this island for 52 years. (Their son is the senator for Abacos) After we accepted the invitation to try out their new porch swing, we stayed and chatted about everything: their family, work, faith, fishing, cats, and the village. The Sawyers are sweet people with a very strong faith. This is the part of our journey that we enjoy the most-meeting the local people and hearing their stories.
We went for a ride in our dinghy, Little Chaser, checking out the shallow water areas and all the interesting boats. We cruised by Albury's Sail (Canvas) Shop (shown below) and the boat building shops. Over 60 years ago, Norman Albury was the local sail maker and his wife began making small bags from the leftover pieces of canvas. It has remained a family business for three generations and they are still stitching!
Some people think the dinghy is for fooling around...
other people enjoy the peace and serenity of the moment...even in a dinghy.
Nick and his fishermen friends returned to the marina dock about 2 pm. (after being 8 miles off shore) and celebrated their catch of thirteen Dorado (Mahi-Mahi) each weighing between 15 and 50 lbs. Nick had caught five Dorado and was ecstatic!
Captain Gene Crockett and Nick are showing off his fish!
Under the tiki hut at the marina, a local Bahamian was paid to clean half the catch, and he also received part of the fish.
The afternoon passed quickly with late lunch, projects, and walks to the village. We, also, ran into owners of an Ocean Alexander similar to ours, and we gave them a tour of Dream Chaser. Harvey and Mary Helen, AGLCA loopers, have Lollygagger, a 42' O.A. in Virginia and are in the Bahamas on their sailboat, Gone Away. It's always fun to compare notes with other O.A. owners.
The afternoon passed quickly with late lunch, projects, and walks to the village. We, also, ran into owners of an Ocean Alexander similar to ours, and we gave them a tour of Dream Chaser. Harvey and Mary Helen, AGLCA loopers, have Lollygagger, a 42' O.A. in Virginia and are in the Bahamas on their sailboat, Gone Away. It's always fun to compare notes with other O.A. owners.
Tonight, our appetizer was cracked conch from the Dock and Dine Restaurant at the marina. Grilled Mahi-Mahi, sweet potatoes, and asparagus were served aboard Dream Chaser followed by a trip to the ice cream store for dessert. Mmm! Coconut pineapple ice cream just seems to taste better while sitting next to a palm tree and watching the sun set.
Saturday, March 22, 2014
After a wonderful restful night, we awoke to bright sunshine, light clouds, and 70’s with 80’s predicted for today. Oatmeal and omelets were on the breakfast menu.
About 7:30 am, the engines were started, lines were untied, and Dream Chaser slid out of her slip at Man-O-War Marina with Little Chaser, our dinghy, tied on behind. As we entered Abaco Bay, we experienced light choppy waters with 5-10 mph winds. Our destination is Hope Town on Elbow Cay about four miles away.
As we neared the island, we saw the famous landmark, the Elbow Cay Reef Lighthouse. Elbow Cay has one of few remaining manned lighthouses in the Bahamas and is a destination for photographers. The historic red and white candy striped lighthouse, built in 1863 and rebuilt in 1934, uses a Fresnel lens floating in a bath of mercury that focuses, magnifies, and directs the light from a kerosene vapor lamp outward, so it is visible up to 20 miles.
Prior to the construction of the lighthouse, there would be one wreck (ships hitting reefs or shoals) per month in the Hope Town area. During the building of the lighthouse, the local residents were not pleased with it being located in the Hope Town area. They created many obstacles during its construction such as: refusing to supply fresh water to crew and sinking vessels with building materials, at night. Once the lighthouse was operating, it curtailed much of the wrecking (salvaging goods) for Hope Town.
Our dockage for tonight is at Lighthouse Marina which is located on the harbor at the base of the famous lighthouse. Dream Chaser nosed into her slip, lines were secured, paperwork was completed, and we were off to visit the most photographed lighthouse in the Abacos. The light keeper welcomes visitors, so up we climbed the 101 steps to the lantern. The tower is 89 ft. tall. The views were stunning!
Dream Chaser is in her slip. (bottom & middle of picture)
Great views from the top of the lighthouse!
What goes up these lighthouse steps...must go down-all 101!
Back at the boat, we jumped into our dingy and headed for the village. Hope Town is a lovely quiet village on Elbow Cay. The island, located in the hub of the Abaco Islands, is about 4.5 miles long and 1080 yards at its widest point. Founded by Loyalists in 1785, the village is located between a beautiful sandy beach and the harbor. Up until about 40 years ago, it had been fairly isolated from the world, and it has preserved much of its distinct character. Many of the local surnames date back from generations of boat builders and seafarers. Standing on the main street, you feel that you are in a New England fishing village set in the tropics! The streets are 8 ft. wide, and no cars are allowed in the village. Many of the charming old houses, with intricate open work and lovely hand carved signs and edging, have been restored. Tropical trees and flowers thrive everywhere. The people are very friendly, and there are cute shops like Iggy Biggy, Edith’s Straw Market, and the Sugar Shack.
Their road signs are somewhat primitive!
Wyanni Malone Historical Museum has everything from pirate, shell, and model sailboat displays to manuscripts, photographs, antiques, and artifacts from shipwrecks. The Widow Malone, a Tory sympathizer on England’s side during the Revolutionary War, left S. Carolina after the war ended. She brought her four children and joined others from the East Coast to settle on Elbow Cay. In this museum, we learned “Why a Ship Is Called a She”. (must have been written by a man)
“A ship is called “a she” because there is always a great deal of bustle around her;
there is a usually a gang of men about, she has a waist and stays;
it takes a lot of paint to keep her good looking;
it is not the initial expense that breaks you, it is the up keep;
she can be all decked out; it takes an experienced man to handle her correctly;
and without a man at the helm, she is absolutely uncontrollable.
She shows her topsides, hides her bottom end, and
when coming into port always heads for the buoys.”
Hope Town has had its share of struggles. In 1850 a cholera epidemic claimed 1/3 the islands inhabitants (about 100 people). In 1866, a powerful hurricane swept the entire island chain. From 1926-32, they dealt with three destructive hurricanes and the economic depression. In 1938, a blight killed 99% of the sponge beds where they had harvested sponges for 70 years. In 1965, Hurricane Betsy passed directly over the village and lasted for three days with 120 mph winds and rain.
For lunch, we walked about a mile down the island to “On Da Beach”, a little outdoor spot with a breathtaking view of the powdery pink sandy beach and the Atlantic Ocean. The beach is protected by an extensive off shore reef. Oh! Another beach to walk!
We saw lots of bikes and golf carts zooming outside the village and considered renting a golf cart to see more of the island, but it has been a busy weekend, and there were NO carts available. So, we walked the town, checked out more of the shops. Vernon’s slogan at the Upper Crust Bakery is “Let Them Eat Key Lime Pie!”, but we stopped for ice cream at the Sugar Shack! Mmmmm!
This afternoon, we took a dinghy ride around the harbor and hailed a few friends we have met along the way that are moored nearby.
The harbor is full of activity.
Children are taught how to run boats early down here. Do you see trouble about to happen?
As darkness fell, the lighthouse on shore began to rotate sending its warning beams across the harbor and Atlantic Ocean. We have tried all day to make a phone call, but the phones are out in all the Bahama Islands, including Nassau! After a fish and chicken dinner via the galley of Dream Chaser, we settled in and listened to a band playing great tunes in restaurant across the harbor.
Saturday, March 22, 2014
After a wonderful restful night, we awoke to bright sunshine, light clouds, and 70’s with 80’s predicted for today. Oatmeal and omelets were on the breakfast menu.
About 7:30 am, the engines were started, lines were untied, and Dream Chaser slid out of her slip at Man-O-War Marina with Little Chaser, our dinghy, tied on behind. As we entered Abaco Bay, we experienced light choppy waters with 5-10 mph winds. Our destination is Hope Town on Elbow Cay about four miles away.
As we neared the island, we saw the famous landmark, the Elbow Cay Reef Lighthouse. Elbow Cay has one of few remaining manned lighthouses in the Bahamas and is a destination for photographers. The historic red and white candy striped lighthouse, built in 1863 and rebuilt in 1934, uses a Fresnel lens floating in a bath of mercury that focuses, magnifies, and directs the light from a kerosene vapor lamp outward, so it is visible up to 20 miles.
Prior to the construction of the lighthouse, there would be one wreck (ships hitting reefs or shoals) per month in the Hope Town area. During the building of the lighthouse, the local residents were not pleased with it being located in the Hope Town area. They created many obstacles during its construction such as: refusing to supply fresh water to crew and sinking vessels with building materials, at night. Once the lighthouse was operating, it curtailed much of the wrecking (salvaging goods) for Hope Town.
Our dockage for tonight is at Lighthouse Marina which is located on the harbor at the base of the famous lighthouse. Dream Chaser nosed into her slip, lines were secured, paperwork was completed, and we were off to visit the most photographed lighthouse in the Abacos. The light keeper welcomes visitors, so up we climbed the 101 steps to the lantern. The tower is 89 ft. tall. The views were stunning!
What goes up these lighthouse steps...must go down-all 101!
Back at the boat, we jumped into our dingy and headed for the village. Hope Town is a lovely quiet village on Elbow Cay. The island, located in the hub of the Abaco Islands, is about 4.5 miles long and 1080 yards at its widest point. Founded by Loyalists in 1785, the village is located between a beautiful sandy beach and the harbor. Up until about 40 years ago, it had been fairly isolated from the world, and it has preserved much of its distinct character. Many of the local surnames date back from generations of boat builders and seafarers. Standing on the main street, you feel that you are in a New England fishing village set in the tropics! The streets are 8 ft. wide, and no cars are allowed in the village. Many of the charming old houses, with intricate open work and lovely hand carved signs and edging, have been restored. Tropical trees and flowers thrive everywhere. The people are very friendly, and there are cute shops like Iggy Biggy, Edith’s Straw Market, and the Sugar Shack.
Wyanni Malone Historical Museum has everything from pirate, shell, and model sailboat displays to manuscripts, photographs, antiques, and artifacts from shipwrecks. The Widow Malone, a Tory sympathizer on England’s side during the Revolutionary War, left S. Carolina after the war ended. She brought her four children and joined others from the East Coast to settle on Elbow Cay. In this museum, we learned “Why a Ship Is Called a She”. (must have been written by a man)
“A ship is called “a she” because there is always a great deal of bustle around her;
there is a usually a gang of men about, she has a waist and stays;
it takes a lot of paint to keep her good looking;
it is not the initial expense that breaks you, it is the up keep;
she can be all decked out; it takes an experienced man to handle her correctly;
and without a man at the helm, she is absolutely uncontrollable.
She shows her topsides, hides her bottom end, and
when coming into port always heads for the buoys.”
Hope Town has had its share of struggles. In 1850 a cholera epidemic claimed 1/3 the islands inhabitants (about 100 people). In 1866, a powerful hurricane swept the entire island chain. From 1926-32, they dealt with three destructive hurricanes and the economic depression. In 1938, a blight killed 99% of the sponge beds where they had harvested sponges for 70 years. In 1965, Hurricane Betsy passed directly over the village and lasted for three days with 120 mph winds and rain.
For lunch, we walked about a mile down the island to “On Da Beach”, a little outdoor spot with a breathtaking view of the powdery pink sandy beach and the Atlantic Ocean. The beach is protected by an extensive off shore reef. Oh! Another beach to walk!
This afternoon, we took a dinghy ride around the harbor and hailed a few friends we have met along the way that are moored nearby.
Children are taught how to run boats early down here. Do you see trouble about to happen?
As darkness fell, the lighthouse on shore began to rotate sending its warning beams across the harbor and Atlantic Ocean. We have tried all day to make a phone call, but the phones are out in all the Bahama Islands, including Nassau! After a fish and chicken dinner via the galley of Dream Chaser, we settled in and listened to a band playing great tunes in restaurant across the harbor.
Sunday, March 23, 2014
Hope Town, Man-O-War, Marshall Harbour
The rains came twice in the night only lasting a few minutes, but released a deluge of water. The alarm went off at 6:15 am, the engines started, and 30 minutes later Dream Chaser was making her way across the bay from Hope Town to the village of Man-O-War.
The sun was peeking through the clouds and the temps were heading to 84. We were to meet a fishing guide at the marina, but he didn't show up. So... After gearing up for our own adventure at sea, Dream Chaser headed through a narrow opening in the breakers and out to the deep blue sea of the Atlantic. The view was breathtaking!
We had a fantastic day of fishing, in spite of the 1-2 ft. waves and 5-10 ft. rollers. A sea turtle and a few pods of dolphins (70 or more) swam along with us for awhile as we motored farther from shore and the reef. It is still so exciting to see these strong creatures swim and jump along side the boat. Nick set the rods, told us how to read the water for fish, and we helped him pull in three beautiful Dorado (Mahi-Mahi).
With two screams of "Fish On", the reserves were called into action. Mary was reeling in the biggest Dorado (for awhile), in the picture above. What a fight and what a rush!
The biggest Dorado was around 45-50 lbs. and REALLY fought! If I told you where we caught them and how we read the waters to find them, Captain Gene would be extremely upset with us! Nick went fishing with Captain Gene and his group a few days ago and learned a lot of tricks and techniques- not to be shared with anyone! It was a fabulous day at sea!!!
Nick has a great understanding of fishing techniques and was happy that we had used Dream Chaser to find today's catch. On the dinner menu...grilled Mahi-Mahi...
It was a great day in Paradise!
Monday, March 24, 2014
Marshall Harbour
The rain began falling lightly, during the night, followed by 4-5 minutes of heavy rain. If you weren’t awakened by the rain, the one BIG clap of thunder would have guaranteed you were awake.
The morning broke with bright sun to a very quiet harbor. We enjoyed a breakfast of pancakes, eggs, bacon, and coffee, on board. The Jib Room was open for drinks and free Internet, so we caught up with mail and news. It was, also, a good day for catching up on laundry and boat projects. With the intense sun, temps in the 80's, and high humidity, the air was on in Dream Chaser through the after noon. The cool air felt good after all the sun we experienced yesterday.
The dinghy ride across the harbor brought us close to the town of Marsh Habour, and we walked to Snappa's, a tropical waterfront spot for lunch. Great food and great view! Nick is prepping to fly out tomorrow morning and head home. It has been lots of fun having him join us on Dream Chaser and guide us fishing. There will definitely be fish for dinner tonight!
No comments:
Post a Comment