The anticipated heavy rains started about 1 am, and we knew the storm had not missed us. About 5 am, we heard a strange scraping noise, and since smart boaters never ignore strange sounds on their vessel, Steve got up to check it out. The lines holding the stern were loose and laying in the water-only two bow lines were tied! Dream Chaser was in the slip sideways! The huge amount of rain coupled with a high tide had worked the lines loose on the dock which had no cleats for tying. We threw on rain gear and managed to work Dream Chaser back close enough to the dock, so we could tie her off. Still dealing with the adrenaline rush at 6 am, we decided going back to sleep wasn't going to happen, so we watched as the river rose higher.
The dock was under water and geese were swimming over the docks! I guess the best place to be at this point was IN a boat!
About 8 am, with the tide receding and Dream Chaser securely tied, we sloshed our way off the dock in the rain to continue another day of adventure, by car!
Wow, could it get more exciting?
Today, we decided to explore the east coast of the Chesapeake Bay starting with Cambridge, MD about 50 miles away on the Choptank River. After a quick stop at the visitor’s center in town, off we headed to the Dorchester Heritage Museums and Gardens. As we arrived, Steve noticed a sale going on in the adjoining building. Ten minutes later, we were the proud owners of a brand new turkey deep-fryer, and it was HAD for an amazingly cheap price. We might have to bungee cord it to the swim platform due to lack of space, but someone’s very happy!
Finally inside the museum, we viewed artifacts and exhibits depicting farming life in the county. We learned that Annie Oakley, Harriet Tubman, and Bea Arthur called this area home. With our turkey cooker securely loaded in the trunk, the Harriet Tubman Museum was our next stop.
The Harriet Tubman Museum was founded in the 1980‘s to preserve Tubman’s legacy. Harriet Tubman was born enslaved (to Edward Brodess) in Dorchester County about 1820 and escaped to the north in 1849. In the 1850’s although she was wanted by law enforcement and slave catchers, Harriet made a dozen trips back to Maryland and successfully guided at least 70 members of her extended family and other enslaved people to freedom. Harriet was an active “conductor” with the Underground Railroad which was a secret network of people, places, and routes that assisted escaping slaves (“passengers”) reach freedom. After motoring through the Dismal Swamp (one area Harriet and her passengers would have had to pass through) we are both in awe of what she accomplished and how bad the conditions must have been to attempt this journey to freedom. Railroad terms were adopted as code words to avoid detection and punishment: conductor, agent, passenger. Harriet was always “packing heat” (a loaded gun), and if any of her “passengers” got scared and wanted to turn back, she gave them the option of continuing or being shot; she never lost a passenger. Maryland was a hotbed for the Underground Railroad due to its location on the border with the free state of Pennsylvania. During the Civil War, Harriet was a spy, a scout, cook, and a nurse with the Union Army. She was the first American woman ever to lead an armed raid into enemy territory. After the Civil War, she participated in the Women’s Suffrage Movement. “Bound For The Promised Land” by Kate Clifford Larson is an accurate and amazing biography of Harriet Tubman. Ms. Larson is an authority on Harriet Tubman and is very involved with the Harriet Tubman Museum in Cambridge, MD. A 125 mile driving tour is available, guided or self guided, of the landscapes where Harriet was born into slavery, escaped from bondage, and returned to guide others to freedom. We plan to return and take that trip!
After a marvelous lunch of bacon wrapped shrimp and blackened halibut salads at the Hot Spot Gastropub, we were off to Oxford, MD.
Founded in 1683, Oxford is one of the oldest towns in Maryland. It’s a waterman’s town and a haven for visitors. Due to the continued heavy rain, we drove through the quaint town and admired the historic buildings, the red brick sidewalks, and charming homes.
We could see why many people visit this town just to experience the wide range of architecture: Georgian, Federal, Italianate, Gothic or Queen Anne, and French-inspired Second Empire. We found it to be a charming town with red brick walkways that pass by interesting historic buildings, great shops, and inviting restaurants. The rain had stopped and the sun was shining when we strolled through town and stopped for a bit at the Fountain Park in the center of town.
During the Civil War, Baltimore and the area exemplified the divided loyalties of Maryland residents. Families were divided between the Union and Confederate sides. Despite the divided loyalties, the Baltimore area remained a Union stronghold until the end of the war.
Chestertown is known for its “Tea Party” Festival. In May, 1774, the citizens boarded a British ship and threw its shipment of tea into the harbor in an act of defiance toward British rule and support for Boston. They celebrate the rebellion each year. Another great town!
Saturday, May 17, 2014
Today, our destination, by car, is the west shore of Chesapeake Bay: Urbanna and Reedville.
At 3 pm, we arrived in Urbanna, VA on the Rappahannock River. The annual Cocktail Class Wooden Boat Races were being held at the town marina, so we joined the crowds on the docks.
Watch out Clearwater Lake!
After the races, we checked out the shops along Old Virginia Street. “Something Different” is a great restaurant/take-out shop which has wonderful menu items. We had been wanting to try She-Crab soup and theirs is TRULY amazing- using rice flour and a touch of sherry! A must try!
We crossed over the Rappahannock River, drove through Kilmarnock, and ended up in Reedville, VA, our destination for tonight. Reedville is a sleepy, laid back historic fishing village founded in the 1860’s by Elijah Reed. Originally, Mr. Reed lived in Brooklyn, Maine and shipped goods from Maine to this area. But seeing an opportunity, he moved to Reedville, harvested menhaden, and became extremely wealthy. From the 1890’s through the early 1900’s, Reedville was the wealthiest town per capita in the US. It is still home to a thriving menhaden commercial fishing industry, and thankfully has a new processor to deal with the fish stink! Menhaden are small, oily fish which are now an important source for fish meal and fish oil.
After checking into the Bay Motel, we headed back to the Crazy Crab Restaurant on Cockrell Creek at the end of Main Street.
While we were at Chitterchats, we made some new friends, Jim and Mary Ellen, from Washington DC who were just visiting for the weekend. We received advice on more places to visit the Baltimore area, and because they have been sailors on the Chesapeake for many years, a discussion on sailing ensued. It was a great time!
Sunday, May 18
With church services at 9:30 am, we had just enough time for a walk down Main Street.
As we walked by the Victorian mansions in the area called “Captain’s Row” or “Millionaire's Row”, we could imagine the wealth in those early days.
Stuffed bears were scattered in the pews with the intent of being a blessing to those around them. It was “Ladies Day” and most of the ladies of the church wore fancy hats and sang in the choir. The pastor gave a great message and the old hymns (“I’ll Fly Away”, “Amazing Grace”, etc.) were a treat! The piano player, an elderly lady, could have played in Vaudeville; she was all over that piano! She radiated such energy that we wanted to get up and dance! But, church was over, and our little elderly piano player had to get into the reception hall to cut cake, so the music stopped.
Our destination today was Herrington Harbor where the Sprow’s 44 ft. Tiara will be docked. So, Jim and Steve shoved off to motor Sanctuary to Herrington Harbor, and Mary and Meg drove the rental car. This little break "off the boat" provided some much needed “girl time”! On the way, the ladies stopped in Solomons, a pretty resort area with shops and an inviting boardwalk. Then of course there was lunch at a fun little coffee shop/cafe along the way. The car gravitated toward signs for antiques.
Steve and Jim had an extra passenger on the boat, Martin Kolk, who was originally from Holland and now from Kittery, Maine. His wife owns a shop in Kittery, called the Clown, and Martin is a wine distributor and sells European antiques. He had been sailing with a friend to Reedville, had gotten behind in schedule due to rough weather, and needed to catch a plane from Baltimore Sunday night. So, we became his taxi service to the Baltimore Airport. Mary and Meg arrived at Herrington Harbor early, so we drove to quaint, pretty Chesapeake Beach and checked out the antique shops. Great little resort destination!
When everyone had arrived at Herringtons, dinner was at Mangoes, the restaurant at the marina. Then, it was hugs good-bye to the Sprows and the long drive to the airport and the boat.
Monday, May 19, 2014
Today is our excursion to Washington DC and the Smithsonian Museums. We drove to Greensboro and then took the subway (green line) to Baltimore, MD. We walked through a sculpture garden to get to the museums.
Having already visited the Smithsonian on prior trips to DC, our agenda today was the Museum of Natural History followed by the Museum of American History, and the American Indian Museum. Great exhibits and very educational; the museums are must-see places! There is far too much to even begin to list or talk about. The pictures show a few highlights. The Washington Memorial was finally open after being shut down for repairs due to effects from an earthquake, so we stopped by.
To avoid rush hour from 4-7 pm on the subway, we stopped at the China Express in Chinatown. It was a locals place and the food was great! Passing into Chinatown, we walked under Chinatown's Friendship Archway which is the largest single span Chinese archway in the world. This archway has 280 dragons looking down, is about 50 ft. above the street, the nine roofs are cantilevered, and there are no nails.
While on our walk, we passed by Mary Surratt's boarding house, the "nest in which the egg was hatched". This is where John Wilkes Booth, famous local actor, plotted Pres. Abraham Lincoln's death. So much more history surrounded us, but we were tired and ready to head back to the boat.
Tuesday, May 20, 2014
Today was a day for catch up: laundry, cleaning, errands, and packing for our trip to Indianapolis for the Indy 500! Postings will continue again when we return to the boat in about 1-2 weeks.
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