Doing the Dismal!

Saturday, May 10, 2014
We’re “Doing the Dismal"!

Our trip is from Elizabeth City at the bottom of the map through the Swamp to just south of Norfolk.

Today, we traveled 51 miles-starting at the Pasquotank River in Elizabeth City, traveling through the Dismal Swamp, and up to Norfolk, VA.  There are two routes to Norfolk.  Many boaters avoid the route through the Dismal Swamp due to low water levels and submerged logs in the channel, but we are up for the adventure.
It is thought that the Dismal Swamp received its name from Europeans referring to “an area where the water stood still”, but it could have been from the early surveyors that were nearly eaten alive by the yellow flies, chiggers, and ticks.  Lucky for us, the bugs are not bad yet!
At 6:30 am, Dream Chaser pulled out of Pelican Marina in Elizabeth City and passed under the Elizabeth River Bridge.  It is an “open on demand” lift bridge, so it was no problem.  We continued north on the Pasquotank River where cypress trees along side the river rise from the river with their roots and lower trunks bathed by the tannin colored river water.

Even though the water is amber colored from the bark of the trees (and looks gross), it is quite pure and was stored for drinking water in kegs as a prized commodity on early sailing ships.
Temps are in the 60’s with 80’s predicted and a light cover of clouds.

Houses are scattered along the way for the first few miles and fields appeared through the trees, but soon we entered a winding path of lush green lining the sides of the river.

Navigating from the upper helm, we enjoyed our oatmeal and yogurt while viewing nature around us.   The river was smooth as glass; cedars, pines, and hardwoods filled the woods; turtles sunned on the stumps, hawks and eagles soared over head, birds chirped around us, and chewed tree trunks showed the signs of beavers.   However, it wasn’t all relaxation, because we still had to dodge some “dead heads” and worry about submerged logs along the way! 
After 12 miles of motoring, we reached the South Mills Lock and Bridge which is the official beginning of the Dismal Swamp. 

 Dream Chaser in the South Mills Lock-looking forward.
And below, as the lock gates are closing.

We had a 45 minute wait at South Mills Bridge and Lock and there was an interesting chart listing miles to destinations.

 The locking was a 20 minute procedure, and soon we were on the Dismal Swamp Canal.

 Dream Chaser pointed up the Dismal Swamp Canal.

 Looking back at Dream Chaser's path.

We had the canal all to ourselves and experienced the tranquility;  just Dream Chaser, the chirping birds, and several copper colored snakes that swam across the canal in front of us.  Yiks!

Originally, the Dismal Swamp was a vast wetlands spreading over a millions acres.  It is believed  that people have inhabited the swamp for over 13,000 years.  In 1650, Native Americans occupied the swamp living on temporary higher ground and hunting in the swamps.  Later they built villages and cleared the forests to grow tobacco, corn, and beans.  This area was on the route for runaway slaves- a part of the Underground Railroad.  They joined other African-Americans in maroon colonies seeking safety in this area even though insects, snakes, and wild animals were abundant.  Many, runaways would continue north and escape on northbound ships.  Moses Grandy was a slave who worked on the canal in the early 1800's, and he has quite the story.  Harriet Beecher Stowe's novel, "Dred: A Tale of the Great Dismal Swamp" reflects on this time.
The Dismal Swamp contains over 112,000 acres of forested wetlands and a 3,100 acre natural lake called Lake Drummond.  The area is rich in plant life and wildlife with black bears, raccoons, bobcats, opossum, otter,  gray fox, 203 species of birds, and 43 species of butterflies.  In the 1760’s, the original plan for this area was to drain the swamp, harvest the trees, and use the land for farming.  George Washington was one of the men who directed the surveying and digging of one of the many ditches that drained the land.

The slaves did the bulk of digging the canals which was treacherous and brutal work. Most of the virgin bald cypress and Atlantic white cedar was lumbered off by the lumber companies.  In an effort to preserve the area, the Swamp was established as a wildlife refuge in 1974. 

The Dismal Swamp Canal, 22 miles long and only 70 ft. wide, was built between 1793 and 1805.  The canal saw it's heaviest traffic in the mid 1800's with passenger ships, shingle flat boats, and schooners.  The canal is only about 13 ft. deep, freshwater with no tides and minimal current, and has two locks at each end of the canal: Deep Creek Lock and South Mills Lock.  The canal is one of the prettiest waterways on the ICW and only remains open due to intense pressure by local politicians.  Having the river and canal to ourselves, today, only added to the beauty. 

Dream Chaser docked at Welcome Center.
With temps in the 80‘s, we reached the Dismal Swamp Welcome Center late morning and toured the facility.  We chose not to take the half mile elevated boardwalk or any of the other trails due to the abundance of ticks!  It was the first time Steve said no to taking a walk.

They say you can find everything from birds and reptiles to insects and bears along with a few people inhabiting this primeval forest.  Well, we enjoyed the chatter of numerous birds, a butterfly visited us on the boat,  and we even spotted slithering reptiles several times as snakes swam across the channel in front of Dream Chaser, but no Swamp people.  We did see a chair attached to the side of a tree, but we don’t know what that was about.

If the waters of the Dismal Swamp Canal could talk there would be stories of Indians, Civil War soldiers, and runaway slaves.  We enjoyed our trip through the Dismal and would encourage boaters to add it to their schedule.

 I'll bet the rent is really reasonable for this lovely place.

Before long, we were welcomed into Virginia.

The locking process at Deep Creek took almost 1 1/2 hours. The delay was blamed on out-dated equipment, but we think it had to do with the laid-back lockmaster.  When we arrived at the Deep Creek Lock,  Mary asked the lockmaster as to how he wanted the lines for tie up in the lock and he said, “don’t you worry Ma’am, you just stand there and be pretty, and I’ll do this for you”.  These Southern guys really know how to sweet talk a gal!

As we left the Dismal Swamp and neared Norfolk, activity on the river increased.

 This wake boarder was REALLY good and is in the air!

 Perhaps, there is safety in numbers?  After seeing the snakes just down the river from this spot, you wouldn't find us in these waters!

At 3 pm, Dream Chaser slid up to the dock at Top Rack Marina in Norfolk, VA.  She was a bit thirsty and the price of diesel was right, so we topped off the gas tanks.  It was a nice area for a walk, but there were no stores in the vicinity.
The Amber Lantern Restaurant by the Marina was a perfect place for an early Mother's Day dinner of filet and seafood pasta.   Delicious!
Happy Mother's Day!